well my buddy just bought a new 4x4 kit not ft team version tho but he got the normal kit for $100 brand new! so jealous at the moment... asked me to build it because I've been wrenching on this truck since it came out.. with all tips I've learned on this thread i wish i had the cash flow to pick up a fresh kit.. the truck drives so nice and tight and cant even hear it going down the straight.. question is.. i got my kit when it the truck was first released.. is it worth it to buy a new ft team kit? or just keep on dumping money into this one? ive done a quick over look at my truck and looks like i need new front/rear cva's.. thats the only thing that looks super beat up..

If you have already done all of the upgrades why bother. If your kit does not have the upgrade kit and is barebones stock. Maybe try to sell yours and buy a FT.

Yeah, I suspect the front wheels kick a lot of the debris into the chassis, I can see how that might help.

Snaf,
I was reshimming my front diff last night and was thinking of you. lol. When I work on the drive line, I check for binding every step of the way. I think you said the rear is binding. I checked my front and it was free rolling. But I remembered something while I was checking it. The tranny screws should have a washer on them to limit how far they go in. If they go too far they will rub on the pulley or other near by moving parts. I will be taking off my rear pulley when I install my exotek clutch locker and I will see if mine was like yours. In the general case, when ever you build a car, always check every moving part for smoothness all the way through the build. Hinge pins, shocks, tranny and etc. This is why I hate buying used cars. I have no idea what yahoo stuff the previous owner did to the car. I always end up tearing the used car down and fixing everything they did wrong. Anyway, check to make sure the tranny screws dont extrend past flush on the motor plate.

Did a search, came up with mixed results from a while ago. Can somebody advise me what diff oil weight to run up front when I install the exotek locked front clutch? I've heard 7000 and a few pages back somebody said 30000. Anybody who has one? Thanks much guys

I dont have mine yet. I out 7k in my front diff. I did this in response to the information I found on the shortcourse forums. I was not able to fine much info on the rctech. So I will use 7k as my starting point and hopefully hit the track Thursday if my part comes in, which is should.


Here is the post I found on it.
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...nt-clutch.html


lol, towards the bottom of that post there is a link to a you tube video...... Is that track beside a grave yard? creepy.

cool thanks, mine gets hre in the mail today, going straight to the track after work so no time to install, but tomorrow i will install and leave diffs at 20,000 and see how it handles, if it does push ill try 7000 or 10000 i guess. will report back on this topic wednesday after testing as well

yea nice track, wouldnt want to do any night races there tho.... haha

I have not run the exotek part, but I have the center diff (I'm 5k) and I would think that a locked in front drive would want to push even more than the C-Diff so I would start with the C-Diff recommended 7k to 5k fluid or somewhere in that ballpark.

i did the write up on rc soup about the exotek clutch. right now im running 30k in the front, what i was running before i put the clutch on. on a dry track that combo works well for me but may push for others.

ive only run the truck with the exotek on a very dry track. last night how ever for the mains the track held some water and i think the truck was pushing a bit.

for now im leaving in the 30k in the front and im gonna try lighter sway bar.

i suggest that you just try it with your current set up. if you start changing things cause someone said to and the truck acts funny you wont know what made the truck that way. one thing at a time.

good luck.

I've been running the exotek inner hub for awhile now, I'm going set my sc10 at blue springs front with red springs rear, yellow swaybar front and blue rear, 5k kyosho grease rear diff and a mixture of 1/3 5k grease with 15k 2/3 kyosho grease front diff......And 32.5k front shocks and 27.5 rear shocks....... Hopefully I'll get to test this setup soon at my local track......

+1 I will just install and try it first. Then change fluid. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to change tho, my track is trcr, tight and technical indoor clay.

i was thinking about trying to the exotek locker inside and was thinking 10k in the front and 7k in the rear, with the vts4 ft clutch outside.

but i do like the HT pad on the inside with the ft slipper with slipper locked down then backed off a full turn to a turn and a half.

basically running it with 3mm showing of threads. aint ate a single idler gear yet either (knocks on desk)

hey guys,
I have a question. I just picked up 2 used sc10 4x4's. One a regular and one a factory team. I am going to sell the rollers, but want to take out the servo's. How difficult is it to do? No instructions came with them. Just thought I would ask before I start tearing into them.....lol

With a hand drill I can do it in 10 mins, by hand 15-20. I will try and write it up on how to do it.... Give me a few mins