I take it RC Shox 2 stages?

Outdoors I was down to under 30W Losi front and and rear on my SC10 4x4 at the time with the 2 stages. So i can imagine how that must have felt in the cold lol.

Back in my XXT days when the track had no heat I would use a hair dryer to warm up the arms and shocks and tires sice the a-arms were so fragile in 25deg temps. My buddy and I were just talking about being out there at four seasons with ice crystals on the track in 1995 lol. We were die hards back then. But the hair dryers work. Used to use to warm up cold nitro engines also. This might work for you, try it out.

Yup RC Shox. I bought fq06's 4x4 the note he had about running outdoors was to throw the 2 stages on and add 5 wt to the oil. Figured he knew the truck better than I do. I have some Losi 32.5 wt, you suggest I try that next time I swap oils or the problem continues?

Its going to warm up in the next few days again anyway so I have another question.
Which would be better for a small to med size outdoor track, the Tacon 4 pole 4800kv I have been using or a Tekin Redline SC4X 5.5T that I just picked up cheap and have yet to use?

if could be the pistons he is using may be different that what comes stock from RC Shox? I know some guys were drilling them out.

You may want to confirm with him.

For me personally, for a loose track setup I was down to 27.5W Losi front, and 22.5W losi rear with the stock RC Shox dual stage pistons, I was also running the exotek chassis and center diff, Blue Fronts on front, Green Fronts on Rear.

Good thing though is that an oil change is pretty quick in comparison to changing diff fluid on the sc10 4x4 :)

based on kv alone and the fact that gearing range on the sc10 4x4 is a bit more limited, I believe the 5.5T would be better on a small to medium size track.

This is basically similar to how I felt with the Tekin Pro4 4000Kv versus the 4600Kv.

Is losi fluid thicker than Associated? I only have 32.5 Losi but have 25, 27.5, 30, 35, and 40 wt Associated. Blues in front like you, Yellow rears in back, its feels pretty slugish. I have green fronts lying around will give them a try sometime.

I use this chart and another (can't find it right now) for oil comparisons:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-oil_chart.jpg

Also, for me personally I found I liked the front springs on the rear on bumpy sections as the suspension reacted faster. Before that, I felt like the vehicle was diving into the ruts.

TRCR's NEW LAYOUT


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=CVGIbixe8lA#!

To caveat that, for outdoor I went up in spring rate as well as oil if needed. I ran 2 stage all the time but had tried standard pistons on my last run which is how you recieved it. I ran thicker oil 2 stage compared to standard.
Sometimes it was really blown out and bumpy if it hadn't been maintained in a while. And when it was brutal I would make the shock & spring changes.
I also raised the ride height a mm or two.
All done in California where temp changes are not that drastic :D

Like Cain said though, easy to change fluids, play with it and see what works for you :tire:

looks fun you in this wild cherry?

Go back to the 1.2 piston and use Ae 35w for front & Ae 30w weight on rear, yellow springs all around .


You will find a big improvement in performance... :nod:

Naw , I made the A and did not strip a spur gear like my team mate Cantrell in the yellow submarine...:D Ha !

40/35 is too high even when its hot, the 2 stage pistons will overpack with oil that high. 35 in the front is max you should need but most tend to stay in the 32.5/30 front and 22.5/27.5 rear. unless they were drilled out.