Originally Posted by Maddog94 (Post 10982147)

I left mine at 30k and I don't notice any problems (but then again, I also didn't notice much of an improvment when I put the locked clutch in).

What do I stand to benefit by lowering the diff fluid up front now?

Originally Posted by Greg B (Post 10982096)

I gotta say that I'm a pure loving nitro nut. Decided to get into the Corr class and purchased myself a used SC10 4x4. I like to be just a little different so really chose agaisnt the Losi as that seems to be the most ran Corr truck in the history of this class.
Gotta say that this truck is ok but nothing close to awesome in my opinion.
1. No need to set drag brake. The drivetrain has it built in.
the belt wears in just like any other belt and at that point there is very little drag
2. Working on this truck is a total nitemare. I can handle it but if you need to change most of anything at the track, it would be awful. As a secondary class, it could be a bit easier.
Thats what everyone thinks when they first got the truck, me included, i can get to any of the difs in less than 5minutes, its really simple once you get used to it
3. To many slipper adjustments. For performance, you tune with fluid, not pads and springs. The VTS made a great improvement but gesh.
the Slipper is a huge pain i agree, which is why i designed a center dif!!
4. I'm not a fan boy nor will I jump up and down for any vehicle made but I gotta wonder what in the samuel hell the designer was thinking on this one.

She seems to drive pretty well and I have been enjoying the results from it but I can see an easier way to build a corr truck.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10982273)

soooo. I just spent 1.5 hours changing the shims in my front diff...........I will never change diff fluid at the track, this is kinda retarded. With practice I am sure I would get faster and with a power screw driver even faster. But wowzers. Anyway. The .5mm seemed to fit fine. But truth be told the original shims seemed pretty tight. No metal in my diff and near excessive wear that I could see. The .5mm shim fit fine. Maybe a tad tight. I think .4mm is probably the sweet spot. but the .5mm went in easy mode. No binding that I could see and the front wheels spun free without the belt attached. I am not motivated to do the rear diff tonight, I will do it when I change the diff fluid, lol.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10974748)

behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10982273)

soooo. I just spent 1.5 hours changing the shims in my front diff...........I will never change diff fluid at the track, this is kinda retarded. With practice I am sure I would get faster and with a power screw driver even faster. But wowzers. Anyway. The .5mm seemed to fit fine. But truth be told the original shims seemed pretty tight. No metal in my diff and near excessive wear that I could see. The .5mm shim fit fine. Maybe a tad tight. I think .4mm is probably the sweet spot. but the .5mm went in easy mode. No binding that I could see and the front wheels spun free without the belt attached. I am not motivated to do the rear diff tonight, I will do it when I change the diff fluid, lol.

Originally Posted by itchy b (Post 10983670)

Wondering if anyone uses the inner body for the sc 4x4?
Is it a good idea or is there temp issues with esc motor?

Originally Posted by itchy b (Post 10983670)

Wondering if anyone uses the inner body for the sc 4x4?
Is it a good idea or is there temp issues with esc motor?

Originally Posted by itchy b (Post 10983670)

Wondering if anyone uses the inner body for the sc 4x4?
Is it a good idea or is there temp issues with esc motor?