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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

Wildcat1971 07-16-2012 10:29 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 10979994)
Thinkthey sent you the updated shims ,if so ?

You discard the smaller .2 shim use on the out drive and just use the new thicker shim under the sun gear ...

ok, sounds good. I dont actually have any diff issues yet, but might as well nip it in the bud. Have you noticed if your belt has stretched a bunch? I noticed my tensioners are both in 1 now. Used to be 3.

Wild Cherry 07-16-2012 10:38 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10980011)
ok, sounds good. I dont actually have any diff issues yet, but might as well nip it in the bud. Have you noticed if your belt has stretched a bunch? I noticed my tensioners are both in 1 now. Used to be 3.

the belt wears very well, but its does stretch eventually and that becomes the main reason for replacement .

When the belt gets to long the truck will throw it off the ft pulley .
When that starts happening replace the belt ....

Snafujg 07-16-2012 10:50 AM


Originally Posted by AzFittin (Post 10973410)
Snafu,

Real simple questions here and you have probably checked a 1000 times on them.

Is the idler gear and main diff installed in the correct direction? Both have a ridge and I am wondering if the idler were put in with the ridge on the slipper side would it cause a bind when things get tightened.

Second question is on the thrust washers and bearings. You said this is for both the V2 C-Diff and factory slipper. Is there any wear on the outside of the case where the thrust assembly goes that looks like it would be caused by the inner washer rubbing? If so the stepped thrust spacer or the blue spacer included with the c-diff may be too thin or worn in some odd way. Just to make sure the c-diff is installed correctly here is the link.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10600508-post878.html

Last is the belt pulley. I am running the STRC aluminum pulleys and have noticed on the original AE slipper, v1 C-Diff and v2 c-diff that it will rub slightly on the inner slipper hub. There is actually a ring worn around the inside of the slipper hub where the pulley has worn off the anodizing. I have not noticed the problem when I run the VTS Slipper so have chalked it up to tolerances being a bit different between the systems. In any case, the pulley does not bind in my rig so much as it just slightly rub but perhaps yours is a bit different.

Good luck on this!

Jason

Thanks AZ. I have made sure the Idler and Diff is installed correctly (it is). And I don't have any wear on the outside of the case. But I will check the pulley. Now that I think about it, I have seen some wear on the slipper hub, just can't remember where at the moment. I'll check that when I get home from work tonight.

On a side note on this, I looked at another racer's truck at the track this past weekend. His was the same as mine, tires don't spin freely once slipper spring is tightened. He was given his truck by a professional racer too, so I'm sure it was built correctly. So this may be nothing, but I'm going to keep checking stuff till I'm satisfied, like the pulley tonight.

Maddog94 07-16-2012 11:18 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10979972)
Does it do the same thing as the exotek clutch?

Looks like it to me!

BorackBasher 07-16-2012 11:21 AM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10979962)
I did. The same as the pin modification. Do not like.

whats the pin modification?

CraigMBA 07-16-2012 11:30 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10979972)
Does it do the same thing as the exotek clutch?

No. The AE hub keys the front to the rear 1:1 through the slipper, the exotek hub keys the front to the spur (no slipper) but allows you to slip the rear still to save the rear transmission counter gear.

A small but significant difference. Has better bite forward than anything else (with the potential of the center diff, which I have never tried).

CraigMBA 07-16-2012 11:32 AM


Originally Posted by Maddog94 (Post 10980167)
Looks like it to me!

It's not!

(I have all of them.)

Beachbuggyphil 07-16-2012 11:41 AM

I wouldn't just throw in the new shims you need to use the right combination of shims to remove and slack.
When you've removed the diff from the gearbox hold the out drive in on hand and the diff case in another hand and push and pull on the outdrive to feel for slack, it won't be much but that's what you need to remove without making the diff tight.
You might need just the new shims or one old and one new or no small out drive shim and both new shims (1 each side) but after you've put the shims in forget the grease/oil for a sec and put the diff back together checking to see if it's got any slack or is to tight.
Once you are happy it's shimmed enough then stick your fluid in.
I've had to shim both my B4 diffs and my SC10's diffs but as I'm in England and can't call up AE I've been finding my own shims. Most have come from Downhill Mountain bike disc brake shims.

Beachbuggyphil 07-16-2012 11:48 AM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10980220)
No. The AE hub keys the front to the rear 1:1 through the slipper, the exotek hub keys the front to the spur (no slipper) but allows you to slip the rear still to save the rear transmission counter gear.

A small but significant difference. Has better bite forward than anything else (with the potential of the center diff, which I have never tried).

Ok, so this still protects the front gearbox using the slipper where as the exotek doesn't use the slipper and only the belt protects the gearbox from the motor.
Do all 3 pads work together rather than 1 to the front and 2 to the rear?
That's one mod I might like into.

CraigMBA 07-16-2012 11:57 AM


Originally Posted by Beachbuggyphil (Post 10980253)
Ok, so this still protects the front gearbox using the slipper where as the exotek doesn't use the slipper and only the belt protects the gearbox from the motor.
Do all 3 pads work together rather than 1 to the front and 2 to the rear?
That's one mod I might like into.

Nobody ever breaks a front idler. The COUPLED slipper is hard on driveline parts be cause it forces all the load to the rear end where the weight transfer is.

Do a search for pin modification, and welcome to last September!

Wildcat1971 07-16-2012 11:59 AM

Craig, what did you think of the exotek front clutch? I ordered one to try out. For $11 why not, lol.

Beachbuggyphil 07-16-2012 12:23 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10980287)
Nobody ever breaks a front idler. The COUPLED slipper is hard on driveline parts be cause it forces all the load to the rear end where the weight transfer is.

Do a search for pin modification, and welcome to last September!

No, I know what the pin mod is, I've only just spotted the small one line post that says the AE part is the same as the pin mod. Chill.
I've actually read EVERY page of this thread since the beginning biding my time until the FT kit came out, I had learnt all the things to watch for when building and my truck has no bind and has had no issues since I've had it all down to the helpful hints I've learnt on here.
I've needed to make sure my truck is faultless as the scene and support is a lot smaller over here and obtaining parts could be a lengthy process.
The only thing I've yet to resolve is getting the temps down on my motor and with pinions costing £6.10 a time (nearly $10) it's becoming a little expensive as I'm up to 3 so far and I still think I need a different one.

Wildcat1971 07-16-2012 12:25 PM

They are about $10 here also. You can save a little by getting the novak 3 pack combos.

Beachbuggyphil 07-16-2012 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10980382)
They are about $10 here also. You can save a little by getting the novak 3 pack combos.

I've not seen the 3 pack before, thank you.
I think I'll get the 12/13/14 pack and sell my 14 & 17 on oOple.
Cheers
:)

RossNZ 07-16-2012 04:03 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 10980291)
Craig, what did you think of the exotek front clutch? I ordered one to try out. For $11 why not, lol.

Love mine, best mod yet.


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