Quick glance I would lenghthen the front camber link and switch to emulsion style instead of using bladders.

Thanks for a good answer Chad. Beginning newb here, sorry:)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNMR8&P=7

You are so lucky to have such nice people here. I wouldn't have given you the time of day after the help they went through to explain, and you post that garbage. You need to thank Krio too, he explained it nicely and easily to understand. :nod:

lol, now this thread is the first result. Google works fast! The next link down had a nice break down of differentials in general.

It really helps me to think about it in physical terms. The thicker the oil the less "slip" is allowed meaning that the wheels want to turn more at the same speed vs. the outside wheel going faster.

Think about how a tank works. when it wants to turn sharp one side stops while the other drives around, even to the point where the inside track moves in the opposite direction.

So the thinner the oil, the more "tank" effect you get which will make that end of the truck want to turn around the center of that "axle" faster, where thicker oil will reduce that affect and a completely locked diff would make the truck to just push in whatever direction both wheels are pointing, thus reducing steering.

Maybe I'm a retard but this explanation makes perfect sense to me. So has everyone else's on here when the "thicker/thinner"{}front/rear" question comes up. Either I'm the retard or.... well... use your imagination people.

How do you switch to emulsion? Why is better? I run on clay only. Thanks

Here ya go, Traxxas part number tra3654.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Axle-Pins-2

Thanks! Got a good ballpark measurement for the front camber? And also I am not entirely sure what emulsion does. I know it keeps some air in the shock but why would someone want to do it?

Instead of the bladder spring'ing back the oil to cause a little sharper rebound to the shock, the emulsified air in the oil becomes that bladder and deadens the shock. Your truck will 'not' donkey kick or bounce down rough straightaways. It's just planted. (make sure to pump your shocks for 10-15 seconds apiece before you throw it on the track to emulsify your shock)

Correct me if i'm wrong.

Thicker oil is not the answer. The thicker the oil, the less the diff will unload. Meaning, the more of a locked diff you will have. The inside and outside wheels need to spin at different speeds to not be twitchy. If you have ever driven a real car with posi in the rear, then you know the feeling around a turn. The unloading of one of the tires make the car twitch. I run 7k up front and 5k in the rear. It is very smooth and still has great traction.

If you don't believe me, then put 100k in the front and find out.

If you put too light of diff oil in,the inside tire will loose traction when the weight transfers to the outside. This happens because the weight on the outside tire causes traction, but the open diff will unload and make the opposite tire to spin.

clicking noise
 

well it finally happened to me :) was test running the truck and heard a slight clicking sound brought the truck inside and tore it down and the rear idler gear was missing a tooth replaced the gear nice and quite again . not bad since i have had the truck just after they came out ...lots of runs on the gears in it

The good part is you found the promblem right away :nod:

I am running emulsion set-up and prefer it for many reasons. First the bladders that come with the kit are firm and not so good. I also prefer the lack of rebound so that the damping is managed without additional spring action. Another reason is that I like the bleed screws for getting every shock tuned to the same level every time.

I plan to someday get FT shocks so I can install the kit shocks on my Jammin SCRT10.

does AE still has a new slipper design in the works for this truck?

any news on this ?

does somebody has the new reedy sonic 550 motor in this truck? how does it do ?