Originally Posted by Fredp1 (Post 12176755)

Had my maiden run with a SC10 4x4 on Saturday that resulted in stripped spur gear :-(
The truck was running fine, then later it started to sound odd... part of the gear got stripped.
It is running a 48p 93 tooth spur and a 21 tooth pinnion(i think) with a 8.5 turn motor.
When the motor was mounted I used a strip of paper inbetween the two gears as a spacer.
Has anyone else had stripped spurs?
Should I use a 32pitch gears?
Any suggustions on what I can do to prevent this from happening again.

This is my first time building a RC truck. Any suggustions on the setting for the clicker and rear clutch.
Thanks
Fred

Originally Posted by Kromulous (Post 12178520)

http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...CF125P19;c=617

Anyone ever try one of these center one ways?

Kinda interesting.

Krom.

Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 12178552)

Thats exactly what the clicker does!

Originally Posted by dirtbikekid33 (Post 12178646)

Yeah I never found one time to use the clicker, you ever braked with a 2 wd truck times that by 2 because of the weight from the truck and all you do is spin out when breaking, IMHO ae needs to totally get rid of the option.

Originally Posted by Kromulous (Post 12178520)

http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...CF125P19;c=617

Anyone ever try one of these center one ways?

Kinda interesting.

Krom.

Originally Posted by gatorage (Post 12179048)

i would think it be a little smoother/more free than a clicker. i can see working good on a track like this with 180 turn...http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...rack-20pic.jpg

Originally Posted by Jstall7543 (Post 12179372)

Don't do it man! Save your money. Loosen the clicker to test it out. No front brakes sucks. Besides that you can get the back end to come around easy with 10% drag brake. Once you get used to it it works really well.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543 (Post 12179372)

Don't do it man! Save your money. Loosen the clicker to test it out. No front brakes sucks. Besides that you can get the back end to come around easy with 10% drag brake. Once you get used to it it works really well.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543 (Post 12179372)

Don't do it man! Save your money. Loosen the clicker to test it out. No front brakes sucks. Besides that you can get the back end to come around easy with 10% drag brake. Once you get used to it it works really well.

Originally Posted by Cain (Post 12178339)

Did you use loctite on your screws holding the motor to the mount?

For the type of motor you are using, I don't see an issue with running 48 pitch gears, you just have to make sure your mesh stays consistent (which using the paper method you mentioned is fine).

For the clicker, pretty much standard to run it "locked" as specified in the manual.

Originally Posted by gatorage (Post 12179958)

you got it all wrong!!!:lol: i would never run a oneway or a clicker on the tracks i run on. i was just saying oneway should run more free than a clicker(it has less drag). anyways it for track with a lot of grip and tight turns it help the front end rotate faster than the back off power(not all tracks you can get the rear end to turn with drag that where this come in to play). still i would try positive toe in the rear or thicker oil in the rear than in the front before i use a oneway.