I do agree with cherry about one thing. If you go way off the reservation on hop up parts, the AE setup sheets and the advice you get from AE drivers might not match up. But, no mater the car, some things are just the same. Raise the front ball studs to make it push more, etc. You get the point. The 4x4 sc turns on a dime, a little too much. My goal is basically what mantis said, make it push then back it off till I like it. And his setup is very reasonable for that. And I am sure by the end of tonight, I will have his setup on my truck.

your right, rc10 dosnt have em all.. when I ran the rc8be there was 2 setups for like a year and a half and that was it. stock and heartson.. alot of people just want to copy the setup of the month, but when you are truly limited or have nothing to go off of, you actually have to do some work and trial and error. most people are lazy and thats why many gave up. this will make anybody truly learn and understand what and why.. but it is very time consuming. I was talking about setups and this stuff last night with WC at the track... hes got the knowledge...

Actually, never thought you did. I just would like to see what i mentioned, thats all. :D

FT stock setup is pretty good on loose dry track with rear camber link raised and tweak the shock oils to your liking. Tire choice, tire choice, tire choice. I am running no added weight with 4pole 540 and Nanotech saddles and love the way it drives. Wanting to try the Exo inner slipper hub for some more pull out of the corners but don't want to give up steering. I like lots of steering. Also having very good results with the Garodisc's paired with 10k in the front and 5k in the rear. Truck can literally be thrown into a corner without fear of over rotation or oversteer. Just looking for that little bit of pull out of the corner that I am loosing compared to the Losi.

are you just using the garo on the inside or all around with the vts?

anyone get a chance to read the review of the exotek clutch on rcsoup.com ?

it would be nice it it worked like he says. I seems there are 2 camps the rc shox v2 C Diff and the locked from hub. If I had a choice, I would use the locked hub because there is no special spur gear. and i can replace the gear at the track if i want.

I think you will still have plenty of steering with the Exotek locked slipper. At least, that has been my experience. I drive on highbite indoor clay though.

I read it. It was pretty convincing. I bought it for 11$ after shipping. I will give er a shot and report back about it next week. Probably wouldn't have pulled the trigger if it wasn't so cheap of an upgrade. Well see....
I run high bite too. Very slick sometimes

i wrote the article so id love to hear what other racers thought. im sure there will be another article about it the more i run it.

for slick tracks it seems to work pretty well. for a tacky track im not sure yet.

Well my track can get slick! Good write up on that. I'm stoked to try it. If it really does its job then that's a great price for that type of performance upgrade.

Looking for some advice.
I drive on short grass and use Fastrax Kourse kings as there is little other choice for grass.
I'm having trouble with the back end breaking free and spinning out half way round the long sweeper at the end of our straight. I can make the rear end step out all to easily on most of the other medium speed corners as well, I just can't seem to get it as planted as my 2wd.
Any tips on how to tune out the oversteer or tune in some under steer would be greatly appreciated.
It behaves very much like its been explained on here and needs fine, precise controlling and doesn't respond well to being thrown in to corners but I just feel that razor edge handling can be tamed a little more.
I can keep with one of the fastest guys at our track driving his X6 with 5.5t motor but the slightest lapse of concentration and I'm doing doughnuts and playing catch up.
Any advice?
FT truck and a front spring kit are my only tuning tools. Currently on stock shock internals and oils.

Yes great write up, I made my own inside clutch, I had some old slipper pads, these are white and seem to be some kind of Teflon, they appear to be old factory ones I picked up somewhere, I found what we call here in NZ a penny washer, just a flat washer, inside hole same as top shaft, outside same as slipper pad, so put one pad, then washer, then next slipper pad then outside clutch plate, and just like that you have a locked inside with a FT outside set up, cost $000, and like I've said before, works great.

Yes it will add a little wear on the washer, but it will last years, and I like to be inventive.

rear diff is clicking but I don't care I'll fix it later. Don't feel like ripping it apart. Just want to run LOL

Its hard to say without knowing your setup. Post your setup and we can help you more.

To gain more cornering traction in the rear you need to either stiffen the front or soften the rear. Best way is with swaybars and/or roll center adjustments that have been beat to death in this thread.