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It's an awful truck, that's why I bought one! :nod: :lol:
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
(Post 12159689)
Relative? Absolutley. And probably the best bang for your buck in a competitive truck. I agree the truck does have a problem in its FT or team versions, Example: if your already wide open throttle and you hit a big tripple it likes to go nose to the sky. But on smaller indoor track I just blip the throttle and it flies good, but if I hold it wide open its nose up and unrecoverable with brakes. These are my observations. Not looking for any trouble or arguments or angry debates.
That store owner throwing all the barts in the bargain bin is most likely because the truck just doesn't break! I put one of mine thru hell and back on indoor and never broke a thing bone stock for 2 years. then i fully modified a Ft version and broke one titanium ball stud due to 6mm of washers I put under it. Hope this helps. Buy one! |
only thing i ever broke was an RPM front arm couple weeks ago... full speed into a pipe.. was able to finish the a-main with it broken to.never take your eye off your truck!
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sway bars
does anyone have a link to the sway bars that show how thick they are. i have the blue in the front of my truck and the yellow in the rear of my truck. which seem good for this out door track. it just other have it the other way around and i dont have it to check it right now. also on the rear tower i have shocks on the outer hole and inner hole on arm keep the truck from rolling to much in the rear. i also think some one said this 6mm or 8 mm mod hepls with the chassies role too.
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Yellow is 2.2 mm blue is 2 mm
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Originally Posted by 9turn
(Post 12159952)
Yellow is 2.2 mm blue is 2 mm
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
(Post 12159689)
Relative? Absolutley. And probably the best bang for your buck in a competitive truck. I agree the truck does have a problem in its FT or team versions, Example: if your already wide open throttle and you hit a big tripple it likes to go nose to the sky. But on smaller indoor track I just blip the throttle and it flies good, but if I hold it wide open its nose up and unrecoverable with brakes. These are my observations. Not looking for any trouble or arguments or angry debates.
That store owner throwing all the barts in the bargain bin is most likely because the truck just doesn't break! I put one of mine thru hell and back on indoor and never broke a thing bone stock for 2 years. then i fully modified a Ft version and broke one titanium ball stud due to 6mm of washers I put under it. Hope this helps. Buy one! Don't get me wrong, I really like it, handles great and is relatively durable but now that all my diff fluid has leaked out of the rear diff I'll probably park it for a while. It's a pta to take the entire rear end apart and rebuild the diff. I do enjoy tuning and fixing but I would rather have more wheel time then wrench time. It's a shame to because I had it dialed pretty well for our track and it screams down the main straight on two wheels with the pro4 4600 and 14t pinion. |
hi guys new owner of an sc10 4x4
currently working on the lowered servo mod and was wondering what yall are doin with the linkage afterwards? taller servo arm or what? |
Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 12160023)
ok thanks i guess i have it the right way then and there wrong lo. all i know it works for me. i like the stiffer sway in the rear for some reason it keeps it planted for me and i can drive it harder that way without it kicking out.
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Originally Posted by ovalosi
(Post 12161033)
hi guys new owner of an sc10 4x4
currently working on the lowered servo mod and was wondering what yall are doin with the linkage afterwards? taller servo arm or what? |
Rc 10 4x4 light set-up
3 Attachment(s)
Lowered Servo Mod
Can notice this change , truck will be less tippy , less roll... step 1 *Before removing servo mark the servo's location on the bottom chassis. *grind the X brace on botton chassis flush & grind the ridge on the back of chassis as well. *Mount the blue servo mounts on servo and mark the location to drill holes in chassis. |
Sc 10 4x4 Light Setup
2 Attachment(s)
Chassis Brace Mod
Lowers chassis brace about 4mm Helps reduce body roll, makes truck feel less tippy. Also the front brace gains leverage & strenght. The mount screw will not bend as easy & break . * remove the spacer from the front mount & grind 4mm off the rear mount |
Sc 10 4x4 Light Setup
1 Attachment(s)
Ae's unbeatable QUAD pad VTS Slipper
Makes for smoother handling and improved traction , less wheel spin , better landings off jumps... * add 1 Ae metal VTS slipper ring & 1 VTS slipper pad * use the Ae heavy duty pad behind the spur gear * adjust lock nut so the threads are just below the nylon on the nut *use lock tight on slipper nut |
Ae Sc 10 4x4 Light Setup
1 Attachment(s)
Reedy 4100 65c Shorty
helps reduce weight & smoother body roll , better jumping & landings *reduces weight of truck about 100 grams compared to saddle packs. *use the Losi foam blocks , they fit just right... |
3 Attachment(s)
Motor cover, belt cover's & back plastic back plates
Removes excess top weight , makes for less chassis roll. Truck will feel less tippy.... * Remove rear motor & belt cover & plastic back plate , no mod nessesary. *Remove front cover |
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