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Originally Posted by umm winning
(Post 9916672)
http://www.exotekracing.com/sc10-4x4-lcg-alloy-chassis/
ooooh shiny :lol: ooooh cheaper. :sneaky: Edit: I hope everyone is aware i've only been harassing about this chassis more for fun than opinion. |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 9916833)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKT0&P=7
ooooh cheaper. :sneaky: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=LOSA99201 |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9916839)
Cheaper still:lol:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=LOSA99201 :lol::lol: |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9916839)
Cheaper still:lol:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=LOSA99201 I can't believe I have a preference in lead weights! :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9916941)
I hate these weights...#1 they are not real lead & #2 they are bigger in size than the tower lead weights so you have less space to use them.
I can't believe I have a preference in lead weights! :sneaky: Hey, that's a neat idea. How about two big 1s packs wired in series (yes, that's what saddles are more or less anyway) instead of your typical saddles? That's more than normal weight, still more capacity, usually a high C rating... Or even more, how about two normal 2S stick packs wired in parallel? :D |
Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9916941)
I hate these weights...#1 they are not real lead & #2 they are bigger in size than the tower lead weights so you have less space to use them.
I can't believe I have a preference in lead weights! :sneaky: And T-dawg, You're crazy. :p |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9916950)
ThunderbirdJunkie prefers his weight to be added in the form of a battery.
Hey, that's a neat idea. How about two big 1s packs wired in series (yes, that's what saddles are more or less anyway) instead of your typical saddles? That's more than normal weight, still more capacity, usually a high C rating... Or even more, how about two normal 2S stick packs wired in parallel? :D like this :-) AE should have made this standard, with a cut in for the receiver box also on the left. for the other battery strap just had to run in to screws for a place for the strap to lock in at and buy an extra battery strap. i run these in a series on my basher. it also give me the ablity to switch my battery to the left side when i run ovals on my race truck ,just got my Exotek today so i am redoing my race truck. |
Originally Posted by khshapiro
(Post 9916974)
like this :-)
AE should have made this standard Seriously, though, how did it drive? |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9916985)
That's the stupidest thing ever, what idiot would even come up with that:lol:
Seriously, though, how did it drive? |
Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 9914995)
Just got home and looked at my notes. Speedo temps were actually under 100 deg. Krio, one more question. Which motor would you recommend, 4.5 or 5.5 SC4X? Most here running the Pro4 are running 4,000 kv, and that seems to be about right for that motor on our tracks. With the exception of one, tracks here are built for 1/8. Generally run 6.5 in 4wd buggy, 7.5 on tighter track, can handle those motors just fine. If the 4.5 SC4X is controllable I'd probably go that way, but like to hear your opinion. If it's as ballistic as the 4,600kv Pro4, probably not. Ran one once on a small track, it was a handful. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Chad Smith
(Post 9915257)
I dont feel like i am getting all the power out of my tekin sc4x 5.5 gearing is 15/62. Running a LRP sxx v2 TC spec speedo. I want more tourqe but think it is my slipper. Will be buying MTK's clutch basket in a couple weeks. I have a fan on the motor so heat isnt a promblem. What do you guys suggest.
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 9915429)
for the guys with the clutchbaskets, what did you do for dust covers?
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Krio, thanks for the help, much appreciated. 4.5 it is. I started out in gas truck, so trigger finger still pretty good ;). Have had the MTK clutch basket sitting at the house for 2 weeks, maybe this week things will slow up enough I'll have a a chance to install. I think you said you're running HD pad inner and 2 std. in the basket? Mine is decoupled, but acceleration and braking have been excellent so far.
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Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 9917993)
Krio, thanks for the help, much appreciated. 4.5 it is. I started out in gas truck, so trigger finger still pretty good ;). Have had the MTK clutch basket sitting at the house for 2 weeks, maybe this week things will slow up enough I'll have a a chance to install. I think you said you're running HD pad inner and 2 std. in the basket? Mine is decoupled, but acceleration and braking have been excellent so far.
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Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9916941)
I hate these weights...#1 they are not real lead & #2 they are bigger in size than the tower lead weights so you have less space to use them.
http://www.dtsc.ca.gov/PollutionPrev...eelweights.cfm I have resorted to using tungsten in my oval car, but it turns out to be a positive change because of it's small size. Bonds on with Shoe Goo. http://www.derbydominator.com/Weights.htm |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9916950)
ThunderbirdJunkie prefers his weight to be added in the form of a battery.:D
That's also my way of thinking. |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9916950)
Hey, that's a neat idea. How about two big 1s packs wired in series (yes, that's what saddles are more or less anyway) instead of your typical saddles?
That's more than normal weight, still more capacity, usually a high C rating... http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...7-26-35_21.jpg I think the weight is about the same between saddles and the dual 1s batteries. I did it because I had them around. |
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