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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 9914147)
I'm not sure what esc Mantis is running, but here's some general info on the Pro4 motors.
While the Pro4 motors can be run on "sensored only" type speed controls (lrp, novak, etc) they will run hotter than normal with no power gain. As a 4 pole motor the sensors loose accuracy moreso than a 2 pole motor as the rpm ramps up and the base timing on the sensors is higher than optimum. The Pro4 motors will perform best (both temperature wise and performance wise) when run on a "dual mode" esc that starts in sensored and switches to sensorless like the Rx8 or MMpro with 0-10 degrees of timing on the esc and geared up. |
Another question - I finally decided to install my swaybars, but did so at the track, with improper tools, and mangled one of the pivot balls (dumb, I know...). I'm looking and I don't see these pivot balls available as a seperate part...the closest I can find are the ones that come with part 91125....is that going to be my best option? Are there other replacement ones that definately fit (that someone can speak from experience)? I see some other ones on some online stores, but they don't quite look right...
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9914119)
They went the wrong way Losi's are running 3800kv's and we are running 4000kv's???? the 4600 pro4 is already too much for 99% of us (me included). who would want a 4pole with that many rpms?
been watching v tards test , and yes your correct about the power band .;) |
Originally Posted by outlawrcgraphic
(Post 9914010)
Sorry, I knew I would forget some setup stuff. Here's the rest.
20t in front, locked down. camber links are outside hole for all 4 on the shock tower, outside on rear hubs. .040 shim on bottom of ball studs at the shock tower. -1 camber in front, -2 in back. Toe is straight up in front, 3/2 in rear. Saddle packs mounted side to side using Mantis's mount. 24 mm ride height front and back. The loose condition comes and goes, so I chalk that up to track conditions, but the tight on power has always been there, and continues to be. I thought about the arms, and I plan on pulling them off tonight when i get home from work. They are stock, and about 3 months old. Put batteries inline. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 9914218)
Thanks for verifying, i'm using that setup with the MMP and it' working out really nice (but with no boost right now) However I think the MMP hast to be in sensored mode to use the "CHEAT" feature which lets you set when the extra timing kicks in, does the RX8 have the same limitation?
So, technically the rx8 doesn't have that limitation. However, in an effort to save 4+ pole motors everywhere, you cannot run sensored only mode on the rx8 so the most timing you could run (say on a 2 pole 550 motor) would be 30 degrees. |
Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 9914224)
Another question - I finally decided to install my swaybars, but did so at the track, with improper tools, and mangled one of the pivot balls (dumb, I know...). I'm looking and I don't see these pivot balls available as a seperate part...the closest I can find are the ones that come with part 91125....is that going to be my best option? Are there other replacement ones that definately fit (that someone can speak from experience)? I see some other ones on some online stores, but they don't quite look right...
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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 9914246)
The rx8 has dynamic timing that works in dual mode and sensorless mode and you can pick any timing between 0 and 30 degrees. CHEAT mode on the mmp applies timing based on the sensors which never read true zero, but rather hover around 15 degrees of actual timing (even if the can is marked 0). 15 degrees is already well on the upper end of timing that should be applied to these 4 pole motors, so even if you used CHEAT mode any timing you added ontop of that would just be increasing the chance of melting the motor.
So, technically the rx8 doesn't have that limitation. However, in an effort to save 4+ pole motors everywhere, you cannot run sensored only mode on the rx8 so the most timing you could run (say on a 2 pole 550 motor) would be 30 degrees. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 9914283)
That makes sense, BTW what is the max temp you recommend on the Pro4?
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I already have tekin pro4 4600, im not that impressed, so we will see about this new viper, i run on really big 1/8 scale outdoor tracks in florida so the higher kv moters work for me, btw i now have rx8 and pro4 for sale if anybody wants it, 150 for both,pm ur info
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Krio did u get my pm???
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Originally Posted by rickybobbyxxx
(Post 9914367)
Krio did u get my pm???
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Originally Posted by MatSC8Lardi
(Post 9914264)
ASC91126, all the swaybar hardware.
Or are you saying the pivot balls in 91125 will not work? |
Krio, you have any recommended gearing for the 6.5 SCX? No boost no turbo right now, that speedo's out for repair. Ran 13/62 this weekend. Ran fine, but could use some more top end. Just under 150 deg after 10 minutes, and only put about 2700 maH back into the batteries, so I have room to maneuver. Sitcking with 550 can motors, so will probably add the 4.5 SCX soon and use a little boost/turbo to bridge the gap b/w the 2 motors.
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Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 9914407)
Krio, you have any recommended gearing for the 6.5 SCX? No boost no turbo right now, that speedo's out for repair. Ran 13/62 this weekend. Ran fine, but could use some more top end. Just under 150 deg after 10 minutes, and only put about 2700 maH back into the batteries, so I have room to maneuver. Sitcking with 550 can motors, so will probably add the 4.5 SCX soon and use a little boost/turbo to bridge the gap b/w the 2 motors.
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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 9914415)
What exact speed control are you looking for advice with? Sensored only mode or a dual mode type esc?
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