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Originally Posted by JayL
(Post 9280683)
re: nosediving off jumps
I raised my rear ride height and it jumps level now I was running 28mm up front and I think 23 in the rear. now that I'm checking setups, it seems that most are either same front and rear, or rear is a little higher.... Will let you know if this worked for me on Wednesday! |
Hey all...I'm loving my SC10 4x4 but, like most of you, I'm trying to fine-tune my setup so the truck is a little more stable and "chuckable" in the corners. Right now I have to tip-toe into corners, although she pulls like a freight train out of the corners!
I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner? Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track? Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts! Cheers, Mike |
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike
(Post 9281084)
Hey all...I'm loving my SC10 4x4 but, like most of you, I'm trying to fine-tune my setup so the truck is a little more stable and "chuckable" in the corners. Right now I have to tip-toe into corners, although she pulls like a freight train out of the corners!
I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner? Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track? Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts! Cheers, Mike Swaybars helped me out on a rough loose track and a high grip blue grooved track. Puck em for sure. |
the dreaded nose dive
FWIW on my truck I had the shock piston come loose and all I had was 40wt shock oil so I used it for the time being . I think im gonna leave it in there because it sure has helped the truck jump better and resist the dreaded nose dive . lucky I guess ..now if i could stumble on some sway bars that should have came with it .. hahaha
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New SC10 4X4
If you know anyone looking for a new SC10 4x4 have them PM me thanks.
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Swaybars FTW...
loose, high grip... swaybars are always an option.. period.
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The swaybars were not hard to fab up at all. If I can do it anybody can! :lol:
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 9280896)
Sweet, thanks. I'll try that.
I was running 28mm up front and I think 23 in the rear. now that I'm checking setups, it seems that most are either same front and rear, or rear is a little higher.... Will let you know if this worked for me on Wednesday! just stiffen up the rear suspension to take it away, more ride height, heavier shock oil, or a stiffer spring. However it is possible for the truck to fly nose down on certain jumps even if the suspension is setup perfect. If the front wheels leave the jump before the rear had completed its compression/preload then you can bet that bad boy is going nose down. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 9280277)
Racecrafter
Suggesting you punch vent holes on the outside of the tire, use 4 small holes on Sc tires. The close cell foam does not breath like regular foam and needs the extra holes on the outside of tire for best performance... I used my display tires at an event where I needed them not expecting too much dirt ingestion. That is why I posted this. These were ruined in one race night. I just don't want others to run into the same problem with stock wheels. :) |
Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
(Post 9281685)
90% of the time I hear someone say their truck is flying nose down its because the tail of the chassis is bottoming out before it leaves the jump.
just stiffen up the rear suspension to take it away, more ride height, heavier shock oil, or a stiffer spring. However it is possible for the truck to fly nose down on certain jumps even if the suspension is setup perfect. If the front wheels leave the jump before the rear had completed its compression/preload then you can bet that bad boy is going nose down. I'm already running 30wt factory team in the rear, so once I get the ride height sorted out, I should be golden. Hey CJ and the AE team: When can we expect some tuning springs? :) |
Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 9282112)
Fantastic, this makes me feel even more confident that I'll be able to tune it easily.
I'm already running 30wt factory team in the rear, so once I get the ride height sorted out, I should be golden. Hey CJ and the AE team: When can we expect some tuning springs? :) :ha: |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Racecrafter
(Post 9281920)
Ummm yeah. These tires have holes in them.
I used my display tires at an event where I needed them not expecting too much dirt ingestion. That is why I posted this. These were ruined in one race night. I just don't want others to run into the same problem with stock wheels. :) We use a leather hole punch , for belts, ect. Its a very useful tool & you will become very popular in the pits when everyone else borrows it ...:cool: |
posted earlier
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...dSC104x4-3.jpg On a super loose surface it can actually get more sand in because of the holes. |
Originally Posted by Canyon Vista RC
(Post 9281321)
If you know anyone looking for a new SC10 4x4 have them PM me thanks.
Can't wait to get my sc10 back to the track this thursday w/ my new setup I hope to have it dialed in asap......... |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 9282246)
We use a leather hole punch , for belts, ect.
Its a very useful tool & you will become very popular in the pits when everyone else borrows it ...:cool: Welcome back. :smile: |
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