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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

mustang347 06-20-2011 07:35 PM

Anyone have problems with axles binding up? I noticed the other day that when I hit the gas 3 wheels would spin, one was bound up. When I loosened up the wheel nut, it freed up the axle. The other axles are fine.

Jmuck69 06-20-2011 07:48 PM


Originally Posted by mustang347 (Post 9283211)
Anyone have problems with axles binding up? I noticed the other day that when I hit the gas 3 wheels would spin, one was bound up. When I loosened up the wheel nut, it freed up the axle. The other axles are fine.

Did you check to see if the crush tube was being used on that axle?

jbmccoy205 06-20-2011 08:14 PM

Does anyone have the swaybars in stock?

Cameron Kellogg 06-20-2011 08:45 PM

I think I am over tightening the axle nuts. Even though the crush washers are in place I have toasted 8 outter wheel bearings now in 2 race events. Picking up some Traxxas wheel nuts with some new bearings to try next.

Farmer_John 06-20-2011 08:54 PM


Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike (Post 9281084)
Hey all...I'm loving my SC10 4x4 but, like most of you, I'm trying to fine-tune my setup so the truck is a little more stable and "chuckable" in the corners. Right now I have to tip-toe into corners, although she pulls like a freight train out of the corners!

I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner?

Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track?

Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts!

Cheers,
Mike

Instead of going silly heavy with shock oil to reduce body roll, start stuffing some spacers under the inner ballstuds to lower the roll center. I"m on high bite clay and at 4mm of spacers, my truck will nearly controllably drift into a largish sweeper then power out straight. All without trying it's best to snap roll like a pattern plane...

FWIW, I"m running home made Sways (2.3 fr, 2 Rr), and Green compound Double Ds on front and soft HB Beams rear.

Racecrafter 06-20-2011 09:07 PM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 9282246)
We use a leather hole punch , for belts, ect.


Its a very useful tool & you will become very popular in the pits when everyone else borrows it ...:cool:

Reallly? Never thought of using those. Sure beats using a 3/8" drill bit just to get that little hole in the rubber.........

Where do you get them? SMART & Final? Punches R US? Dominatrix Emporium?

:rolleyes: :lol:

FlyByWire 06-20-2011 09:29 PM


Originally Posted by Racecrafter (Post 9283626)
Reallly? Never thought of using those. Sure beats using a 3/8" drill bit just to get that little hole in the rubber.........

Where do you get them? SMART & Final? Punches R US? Dominatrix Emporium?

:rolleyes: :lol:

Michaels/Hobby Lobby/Jo Anns, etc.

seabass17 06-20-2011 09:31 PM


Reallly? Never thought of using those. Sure beats using a 3/8" drill bit just to get that little hole in the rubber.........

Where do you get them? SMART & Final? Punches R US? Dominatrix Emporium?
Harbor freight tools or anywhere you can buy discounted tools.

northkona 06-20-2011 09:42 PM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9280476)
ThunderbirdJunkie cannot take credit where it is not due...he has not taken a dremel to his 4x4 at all.

At least not that he remembers. So it's still entirely possible, but he doubts it :lol:

sorry man , my mistake ,I could have sworn you posted it . If it makes any difference it was a good tip tho !

thebizz 06-20-2011 09:47 PM


Originally Posted by jbmccoy205 (Post 9283389)
Does anyone have the swaybars in stock?

WESTCOAST RC RACWAY DOES IF U LIVE IN SO CAL!

T-BirdJunkie 06-20-2011 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by northkona (Post 9283781)
sorry man , my mistake ,I could have sworn you posted it . If it makes any difference it was a good tip tho !

No need for an apology...it's a good thing you said it, because ThunderbirdJunkie inspected his truck, and saw a nice little light ring of wear around both the rear CVA bones:lol:

So, good on ya for pointing it out:cool:

Keeferton 06-20-2011 10:08 PM


Originally Posted by mustang347 (Post 9283211)
Anyone have problems with axles binding up? I noticed the other day that when I hit the gas 3 wheels would spin, one was bound up. When I loosened up the wheel nut, it freed up the axle. The other axles are fine.

I have been cranking down on my wheel nuts after one coming off during practice one day and yesterday at the track i noticed the truck was starting to pull to the right under power towards the end of the day. It would also turn quite sharper and whip around faster on right turns than left. Checked the drive train and no noticeable binding. I'm thinking it was probably the wheel nuts after reading your post. Not as bad as yours but most likely the same deal.

jaybird95 06-20-2011 10:42 PM


Originally Posted by Farmer_John (Post 9283569)
Instead of going silly heavy with shock oil to reduce body roll, start stuffing some spacers under the inner ballstuds to lower the roll center. I"m on high bite clay and at 4mm of spacers, my truck will nearly controllably drift into a largish sweeper then power out straight. All without trying it's best to snap roll like a pattern plane...

FWIW, I"m running home made Sways (2.3 fr, 2 Rr), and Green compound Double Ds on front and soft HB Beams rear.

What holes are you running the ballstuds in front and rear?

BulldogSRT 06-20-2011 11:01 PM

What I have noticed with the wheel nuts / binding issue is this, I believe the problem is with the wheel hexes. One of my wheel nuts kept feeling loose after each run and so I just kept snugging it up. Well after returning from the track I noticed that the wheel hex has worn away (and slightly collapsed) where it contacts the wheel bearing to the point where the hex was rubbing on the caster block (upright). I think with all the side loads (and not so smooth landings :blush:) and 550 4.5T power the wheel hexes are a weak link. There are posts here about the Tekno Slash 4x4 aluminum clamp on hexes coming with all the required harware now.............so I have some on order and will post up result when they arrive.

BulldogSRT

sandsurfer 06-21-2011 03:20 AM

The Tekno nuts are working for me so far. I had the issue with the original wheel nuts wearing the seal of the bearing. Just make sure when installing that you use the shims to take up the play in the axle. I used all eight that were in the package, two per axle.


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