I have a couple questions as to which shims to use for the ball studs and axle.

Will these work even though they went to metric on this car?
Ballstud washer

And what shim is everyone using on the axle with the tekno hex kit? I found these and they seem to be fine.
TT washer

Ballstud washer part number is 31286

Almost done with the build, just gotta mount the tires (not sure if I wanna go with barcodes or suburbs for the clay track I run at)

SC4X 5.5
MMP SCT ESC
Gearing 16/60 (Gonna experiment with different gearing)
Gens Ace (No flames :lol:)
Savox Servo (w/ novak glitch buster, I have castle bec but haven't installed it yet)
5k rear diff, 7k front
32.5w front shocks, 25w rear
Losi swaybars front/rear

Gonna adjust ride height, camber etc at the track......

Any suggestions on best gearing for the tekin on a short indoor clay track?

Pics (has stock tires on)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/IMG_3541.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/IMG_3542.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/IMG_3543.jpg

It's my understanding that Tekno's hex adapters now come with shims. Mine did not and I used TRA3982 Teflon 6x8 washers from Traxxas. Very light and teflon won't bind against bearing. You can also use TRA3981 6x9.5mm teflon washers. In a pinch you can even use 1/4" washers. 1/4" = 6.35mm . The axle diameter is 6mm; an extra .35 won't hurt.

I just want to make sure I do this right, I haven't checked truck, but the rear outdrives are the the problem, or are the front affected by this to?

Also, I remove Shock end and place fuel tube and screw all the way in , then back out 3 turns?

Thanks

I popped the springs off, lifted the arm until it made contact with the outdrive. Backed it off for a little clearance, then measured-added a couple of skoshes to the measurement, then cut the tube.

the rest is elementary. Remove, slide on, screw....back off 3 turns. Replace spring. Go run.

I used purple tube. It's pretty.

OH, rear only. Two different guys must have designed the arms. The fronts are perfect.

Farmer John! I think we are on to something............

I cut some 5, 6, and 7 mm spacers from tygon fuel tubing, I used my lathe my slipping the tubing over a medal rod and cut with xacto so everything is square and precise, with 3 turns out on rear eyelet 7mm is about right and 6mm for front,
I also ordered Diff cases and outdrives and will see if new diffs with up-travel limiters fix
my loose and leaking diffs.

my fronts also rubbed

Steve :tire:

I've just got to comment at this point, that by no means am I a setup genius. I've given up sooner on cars that are easier to work on and give results much quicker and easier.

But this thing has me ticked off.

I find myself working on, around and through this damn little thing. I"m picking the brains of locals better than I and thinking through exactly how it feels to better receive suggestions and guidance on what to work on next.

It's worse, though very similar to tuning a touring car. Or a dumb race horse. In either case, there's got to be a magic moment somewhere in there....

All we need is a .5 degree hub carrier and a 3-1 toe block. Isn't the aftermarket going to come through this time like they did for the 2wd SC10?

Any ideas on what hub carriers we can use?

it seems really loose like a 2wd truck....

Dunno about that, ThunderbirdJunkie's 2w SCT isn't as loose as this thing:lol:

Help with set-up on RX8
 

Using a RX8 with the castle 4 pole 3800 540, getting ready to race outdoor on 1/8th track, any special settings on the RX8, due to it not being sensored?? Any info would be great thanks

It seems to be a fairily common complaint that the rear end of the truk is loose. I had the saame complaints, I had better drivers try my truck at the local track and they thought it felt great. So Im wondering how much of this is the user and how much of this is the truck?
Who is a great driver who feals the truck is loose?
Or who is a great driver the feels the truck is on rails?

If I try to "push" this truck it get's loose on me. If I drive smooth I'm rewarded with really quick laptimes. So for me it's both, loose if I drive like an idiot and on rails if I drive within my limits. The Cav setup on rc10.com is what I've been running before that setup was even published, works really good for me.

Just checked my rear diff out drives. The L side, Motor side the outdrive wobbles. Does that mean the bearing is shot? Is this a warranty problem? I have 3 races on this truck.