Thanks alot Dan. It will help.

Whaaaaaaatcha doin' Shaun? :D

Regardless of which direction the piston is moving through the oil, it still has to go through the smaller hole.... I'm trying to understand how that is any better than having a non-tapered hole...

I'm thinking of it like a 5 lane highway, where traffic is moving freely.....then construction blocks the left and right lane, forcing everyone down the center three lanes....1 mile later, construction blocks lanes 2 and 4, forcing everyone down the center lane.

How is that any different to the flow of traffic than blocking lanes 1, 2, 4, and 5 all at the beginning of the construction? All the traffic still has to move through the center lane before it can be free on the other side...

[QUOTE=Just1More;10404288]The clicking when turning left on hard throttle is the front diff, i test by holding each front wheel one at a time and stabbing the throttle(be cautious of spinning rear wheels). It should make a bad clicking noise when you hold one wheel and not the other, so it's the diff. I used longer 2.5mmx12mm bolts on the diffs, takes a while to screw em in but the longer bolts along with 1 extra shim under each big diff gear and you're set for a long time. Less leaking too because the diff is assembled tight



Thanks
Where are you guys getting the shims for the diffs and the cam studs.

What should I change to reduce on power under steer? It's great off power but when I have to take a tun on power it understeers a ton. Right now I run ryans setup w/ inline saddles.

Yep, I have all the final proofs/protos...in natural...I can dye them any color I want...:nod:

3-3 block.

Thanks! Would that effect anything else?
I can throw the rear end out easy but on some turns its not feasible for me to do that (e.g. 90° at the end of a straight and a wide 180 after a jump).

It Stiffens the rear suspension under acceleration so its not recommended for rough tracks and it will rotate a little more on entry.

Hole shape does make a difference in how efficiently fluid flows through it, and it has something to do with the turbulence introduced at the edge of the hole, and the direction does matter...but...I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer so I can't speak at all to how much of a difference it makes. I remember someone posting a drawing of a bunch of different holes shapes and sizes and their relative mathematical differences, but I can't remember what thread that was.

Thanks I will try that! Track is very smooth so it wont be a problem.

I want some! :D I am going to have a rim sale after this weekend. :nod: Defiantly going to be running these from now on.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9863558

Found the page where the chart on orifice shape is.

Raise the rear roll center by lowering the inner ball stud. :D

Here are some detailed pics of the chassis mod
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-39-19_553.jpgthis shows the cutout in the side of the chassis to fit the MMP. This gives just enough room for the battery to be centered and the wires do not press against the belt tunnel.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-39-52_704.jpgthis shows the center braces removed from the chassis. The lip from the rear piece helps hold the battery in since it slides all the way back.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-40-19_918.jpgthis is how it looks RTR. I found 6/32 threaded aluminum spacers 1" long for stand offs holding the battery strap. There is a 2mm carbon plate bolted into the bottom of the chassis with full length strips added on each side to hold the battery. Very stiff! http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-15-15_855.jpg you don't need all the CF. Just something to compensate for the removal of the center brace holding the middle and rear pieces together.
Hope that helps