R/C Tech Forums - SC10 4x4 Thread

i know people have had problems with slippers. i have not had any problem with my truck(3 race on it)(i run my slipper all the way tight or lock as much as i can). but what i want to know is what part is everyone buying to fix it if it dose go out. or should i not worry about it if i run it tight like i do.

It's a Slipper Basket. Sold by Mac The Knife.

Please read the thread.

BLbound

11-06-2011 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorage (Post 9874192)

Your looking for MTK...clutch basket master...you seek MTK! :lol:

the_freak

11-06-2011 01:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly (Post 9872779)

I am running Yellow up front and Blue in the rear. So one step up from Craig's suggestion.

ok ths ill try it out but smaller on the rear that was the info i need :)
ill give it a go next time i hit the track

zixxer

11-06-2011 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorage (Post 9874192)

probably best to type slipper in the search engine for this thread it had been mentioned so much i dont see how you could have missed it if you were reading the thread ....im just sayin

tony montana

11-06-2011 05:18 AM

Got my clutch basket thanks Mac. I know the cover doesnt fit just right. I know I have heard of a heat gun but exactly how do I do it?

Evil Genius jr.

11-06-2011 05:20 AM

Im still having problems with the shocks binding. It seems to add about 10wt to the oil I am using, its very drastic. I tried removing the lower x-ring but all the oil leaked out over night :mad: . Any ideas? Aftermarket rings? Thanks!

Mac The Knife

11-06-2011 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony montana (Post 9874683)

Got my clutch basket thanks Mac. I know the cover doesnt fit just right. I know I have heard of a heat gun but exactly how do I do it?

Sparkwraps posted on my "For Sale" thread how he did it, with pictures.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9392323-post57.html

ShortCourseOnly

11-06-2011 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9873397)

So, question is:

Does this sound like a common problem caused by water damage? I can probably get it fixed under warranty, but if it can really go tits up that easy I just don't see how I could depend on it for racing.

The motor and ESC are the Novak SC Pro combo with the 4.5 ballistic 550.

Does it sound like a Motor or ESC problem to you guys, and assuming I only replace either or, what you would recommend as an upgrade for the damaged component?

Thanks guys,

I had a similar experience without the water. I had cogging and replaced the stator on the motor and it was fine. I would not expect the ESC to bet the issue. Now why the motor Stator had issue I don't know. I have been running the motor for a whole race series. Can you identify any high impact or high temp condition? I ran mine in a Jammin SCRT10 and for sure made a lot of chassis slaps and high power hits. Temps were always good. So I'm confident that the Tech service guys will help you out.

MatSC8Lardi

11-06-2011 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr. (Post 9874688)

How many races on the truck? Are your shafts bent? Have you rebuilt them?

Evil Genius jr.

11-06-2011 06:21 AM

Brand new. No. Yes.

CraigMBA

11-06-2011 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr. (Post 9874843)

Brand new. No. Yes.

Aftermarket o rings will fix this. I use two, some users report good luck by using just the bottom one.

tony montana

11-06-2011 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mac The Knife (Post 9874712)

Sparkwraps posted on my "For Sale" thread how he did it, with pictures.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9392323-post57.html

very cleaver. Thanks Mac

Evil Genius jr.

11-06-2011 06:41 AM

What O-rings would you recommend? I tried using just on stock ring and it was much smoother but it was also very leaky.

gatorage

11-06-2011 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorage (Post 9874192)

sorry, i read the post but like to buy one from amain or tower. but i did not get the answer to if i run it fully tight on spring will it go out on me. i never use a loose slipper on any cars and i drive even on loose track /it just what i am use to.

Vegatron75

11-06-2011 07:01 AM

Thought I fixed my rear diff problem. I guess I didn't.

Went racing Sat., my rear diff had previously been making a clicking sound, while on power and turning.

I replaced all the internal gears and took it back out. SOunded good for a while and then started clicking again.

Pulled it apart and I can see the very edge of the sun gears is polished. I also noticed the lip at the top of the sun gear is actually touching the cross shaft. I also noticed the shelfs inside the diff are a little compressed. Probably effecting the placement of the diff shafts.

What the heck can I do? I tried some thicker shims on the cross shafts, but they're too thick. Can I use 1 thin and 1 thick on the same cross shaft?

Everything in the diff is new except the outdrives.

Really starting to bother me.

The truck ran well though, I just hate having a truck that sounds bad. I'd rather it look like hell and sound good then the other way around.

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