i like to use an onboard temp gauge that can measure the temps of the motor and record its max temp. i dont care how fast you are with a temp gun , you never get the hottest temp.

i use a venom temp gauge. make sure the sensor is behind the motor where the least amount air will get to it and the hottest part of the motor will be.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h9...anmount001.jpg

'someone' messed with their diff just recently. ;)


My pro4 blew up bigtime. Bearing explosion and I screwed the rotor trying to press, pry, pull the bearing off. This is the second bearing in a month. I'm a little frustrated but sigh, I like the motor.

Just don't think a Tekin RS is a good pick for the SC10, on the RX8 it's not an easy fit in the SC10 either..I'm still trying to find a good speed controler..I'm running a viper copperhead right now..was running a MMP with a 4 pole 3800kv and it wasn't enough..

i like the tc spec.. its small and light weight, super easy to fit in the sc10 with saddles. just recently put hazards rims on.. makes the truck handle much better and more stable.. used to run the stock ae rims and the truck was not as "planted" just in my opinion

RX8 fits fine!

Photos..how does it fit with saddle packs? Or are you using stick packs?

Didn't have an easy go at running my FT truck tonight. Slower than the Losi's even when I wasn't wrecking. I need a setup for a loose dirt/sandy/loamy track. I'm ditching the sway bars and maybe getting a pro4 motor. I have a Novak 550 5.5 with 13/62 gearing but getting thrashed.

The issue was not with the battery or the 40C rating of the battery.

Most issues I see with wires and or batteries getting too hot are the connectors and or bullet plugs. The bird cage style bullet connectors are not suitable in 4x setups that pull down lots of amperage. I run the solid type bullet connectors on both my MMP and RX8 controllers and never have had a problem. I plug straight into my saddle packs and do not use any other connectors. I run the so called "cheap" gens ace 25C rated 6000Mah saddle packs without issue for over 6 months now. If I do run connectors on direct style batteries I run the traxxus style connectors as they handle the amperage better than Deans style connectors.

Don't put a lot of faith into the published C ratings from the manufactures. These are just published values and unless you can verify them yourself or through an unbiased third party, don't put a lot of faith in them.
Even if you bought a 90C rated battery, is this better than a 65C rated battery from another manufacturer? How do you quantify that if you don't have the equipment to actually measure and compare? Do you even need a 90C or 65C battery and if so do you need that much punch at start up? Pulling that much amperage out of a battery at every trigger pull coming out of a turn is in most cases unneccessary and will shorten the length of your run considerably...not to mention that it will add unneccessary heat. It will also spin the wheels and affect traction. We control this with torque limiting in the MMP and Current Limiting in the RX8.

Case in point....I have run both the Peak Racing 5500Mah 90C saddle packs and the Gens Ace 6000Mah 25C saddle packs. Can I tell the difference in punch between the two? Yes...but only if running a speed controller and motor setup that will actually pull down that kind of amperage. Do I need the extra amperage from the Peak 90C rated battery? No. With the 25C rated battery I do not need to run any current or torque limiting but I do with the 90C battery. Does this mean that the Peak is a better battery? Maybe, but if I am not utilizing the extra amperage, why do I need to spend triple the money for said battery? If I do not use current limiting or torque limiting with either my MMP or RX8 with my Tekin Pro4 motor on the 90C Lipos, I will be lucky to finish a 10 minute main....and no warm up laps. With either controller running same Pro4 motor on the Gens Ace 25C batteries I have no problem finishing a 10min main (with warm up laps) and this is with no limiting. Yes the Gens Ace is rated for 500Mah more but keep in mind that I run those without any limiting.

He uses stick pack, I know robert, good friend of mine

Don't ditch the sway bars. This truck needs them badly.
The +3 offset wheels help.
Tire selection makes a huge impact on traction.
I personally like the Proline Tazers #1 and the AKA Gridirons #2.
I run super soft when temp is below 85F and soft if over.
Track is hard pack dirt with dust, watered to drying, med traction.
Tazers have better side bite compared to the Gridirons but both are good.

I currently run the Pro4 4000 on an RX8 with 10deg of timing in dual mode with 60/15 gearing. It is plenty fast. Run the same on an MMP w/ ext. BEC with same results.

RX8 will fit on either side with inline saddle packs.
If running on the left side, you just need to trim the back section of the FT saddle pack mount.
If running on the right side under the belt tunnel, you need to trim the back right side of the FT saddle pack mount AND cut the fan mount off the RX8.
I run mine under the belt tunnel on the right side.
I don't need to run a fan on mine as it only gets up to about 124F on hot days.

If installing under the tunnel, you need to remove the rear spur cover along with belt covers to mount.

Pics have been posted about a dozen times of the RX8 in saddle configuration. Only took a tad bit of grinding on the saddle mount, also documented at nauseam.

;)

If your running on a loose bumpy track, ditch the sway bars, mine goes way better without them.

Try a larger pinion , suggest 15T or 16T .....

Your motor needs a bigger pinion then others the same size ...;)


BTW
Rc10 is not slower , just keep racing & practicing ....

Thanks lodhammerdin. I hated my truck without swaybars.. Best thing to get for the suspension is the RC shox v2 pistons.