That's one thing I forgot to mention... I was running the birdcage style bullets, and had it fail once when they were nearly new, but towards the end of their life they definitely had a weaker connection and I had more issues with them. Now I will only run the solid style bullets. I do still believe that the lower c rating had played a part tho... Because I never had any issues while using them in my 2wd vehicles... Even with the worn out birdcage bullets. To each his own on that topic

A loose bird cage or bullet plugs will not arc as bad and get as hot with a lower turn, lower power 2wd motor/esc and lower load from less weight compared to a 4x4 with a high amp draw esc/motor combo (especially the new high power 4 pole motors). Add a power hungry servo that you would not use in a 2wd to that as well and you have a lot more power going through the bird cage or bullet connector in the 4wd.

I change my bullet connectors often as they wear like the bird cage, the prongs squish together over time and need to be replaced. $2.50 insurance.
You can probably let your 2wd go longer, but the 4wd will arc bad enough to melt lipo cases or worse if you let them go too long before replacement.

I use a brushless hobbies. Fits fine, smoot and costs $67

Like I mentioned earlier, go to brushlesshobbies.com

i woulda kept the mmp and just upgraded mtr. i was fine with 4 pole cc3800

Brushless Hobbies esc... ftw!

Friends mmp fried and he picked up the BL hobbies esc as a replacement, it's smoother (less cog) and mid race glitches are a thing of the past!

His motor is the castle 4 pole from the losi scte rtr and it is a lot better off the bottom now.

Ok, I posted earlier in the week asking for help with my 4x4 and WC and a few others gave some opinions. Ok, here are the results from adding 5 mm to the inside rear. Moving the rear shock bottom in. Using a 2.2 mm sway up front and a 2.0 in the rear. I could not pick up the yellow front springs because the LHS does not carry any. I also used the Dual rates on my radio to try and slow down the steering sensitivity.

1- The truck was more forgiving over all in both wet and dry track conditions but seems best on a dryer slicker surface.

2- The "diffing" out was less of an issue when the track was more high bite. So WC was right about traction being a problem.

Ok, so I still need more stability from the truck. Its perfect in 180 deg turns, nice rotation and control. I cant go too fast once traction comes up because I will roll half the time. The suspension is still a little bouncy as the traction comes up. We have a "drop in" and once you exit, you need to get your speed up for the double. When the trace was more dry and slick this was easy, as the truck squared up nice fairly well. As traction came up it was kinda hard to square up because the truck was way too reactive to small movements.

Overall, the truck get worse for me as traction comes up. The steering seems to increase faster than rear bite when the traction increases. In the main I went to a less bite flatter tread surface and it was over pretty good. I went to a Beams Pink, which everyone told me was a horrible idea, yet I liked it , lol. When the track was mostly dry and dusty a proline sniper seemed over good, and the truck was great on 90% of the track. But could not get on the gas too much on the straight as it would diff out.

Summery:
- Too much steering sensitivity when the traction increases.
- Too much diffing out when the traction is less.

If i had to fix an issue, it would be the steering sensitivity.

get the AE or rc shox ackerman bar and use a stiffer spring and maybe put shocks on outer hole on bottom. that'll lessen your sensitivity and steering.

I know you probably already have but post your full setup again.

My initial thoughts are go to a stiffer spring front and rear and move to a stiffer roll bar front and rear when the traction comes up to reduce the traction rolling.

As far as steering goes that is all a front rear balance thing, you will sort of have to play with your link settings and see what works best for you. By installing washers under the rear inner ballstud you lowered roll center and made the rear of the back end roll more when turning. It may be as simple as going to 3mm rather than 5mm to get the back to slide a little more.

Yeah, the lhs does not really stock ae 4x4 parts. Need to put together an order to amain. Will the JC +3mm offset wheels help at all with stability? I have a set of rims that I should mount some tires on.

to put it bluntly it won't make your problem magically go away, it'll help a little but you have to fine tune your suspension setup. I use about 7mm of spacers in the rear ball stud.

yes the jconcepts hazards help A LOT! more stable and less twitchy.

I need new longer ball studs to go that high, right?

Yes, the 12mm ballstud would help greatly, plus you would need the carbon fiber C-hub piece to add to the hubs

You must have 12mm ball studs to reach 7mm.