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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

lodhammerdin 02-28-2012 01:59 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10395495)
My saddle packs were just delivered to my house, I want to go home and run this thing now!!

My "new" saddles get here tomorrow. So does my sheet of Carbon Fiber. Pic's to come soon. It's a completly new design and new take at the saddle pack setup.

special_k 02-28-2012 02:01 PM


Originally Posted by jodyfj40 (Post 10396073)
I posted awhile ago about a clicking noise i was having under heavy throttle. I took the rear diff out and replaced the diff oil that was leaking out and put everything back together. The noise went away for a week or so and returned today at the track. It will click under hard throttle and while turning towards the driver side but not while turning toward the passenger side. What do you guys think. Just seems weird that it went away then came back. btw I am running the factory battery tray and stock slipper, but have the brace and mantis center diff coming soon.
Thanks
Jody



I had the same problem,I would change oil and it would go away then I shimed it like everyone else did and went away for a while. Well it came back so sence my outdrives were really loose I order new diffs front and rear and new gears too. In my case my sun gear where warn out and rounded off compared to the new ones. Sence I replaced both diffs with all new parts no clicking noise under hard acceleration. Hope this helps

lodhammerdin 02-28-2012 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by special_k (Post 10396158)
I had the same problem,I would change oil and it woul0d go away then I shimed it like everyone else did and went away for a while. Well it came back so sence my outdrives were really loose I order new diffs front and rear and new gears too. In my case my sun gear where warn out and rounded off compared to the new ones. Sence I replaced both diffs with all new parts no clicking noise under hard acceleration. Hope this helps

I was having the same issue a while back. I traced it down to my rear belt pulley. I had changed my motor and pinion at the track and ran out of time to put my belt cover back on. During the 10 minute race, I had totem dirt and mud onto the pulley and it dried and basicly caused true belt to skip really bad but it sounded like the rear diff. I would check your guys pulleys (front and rear). Just my. 02¢, hope it helps someone.

JEFFs SC10 02-28-2012 02:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Well here she is saddle packed n ready to go, think I'm gonna go up in rear spring even before I take it out on the track, a little too soft.

These are 6000 mah, can't wait to drive it. :cool:

lodhammerdin 02-28-2012 06:38 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10396416)
Well here she is saddle packed n ready to go, think I'm gonna go up in rear spring even before I take it out on the track, a little too soft.

These are 6000 mah, can't wait to drive it. :cool:

Looks good, whats your current setup and what kind of track?

carrotcake 02-28-2012 06:48 PM

Team Associated Underbody for FACTORY TEAM SC10 4x4 kit
 
Does anybody know or think the current Team Associated Underbody (ASC91168) for SC10 4x4 would fit on the coming soon Factory Team SC10 4X4??

The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way??

Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit.

Thanks.
Robert

CoyoteSlash 02-28-2012 06:50 PM


Originally Posted by carrotcake (Post 10397642)
Does anybody know or think the current Team Associated Underbody (ASC91168) for SC10 4x4 would fit on the coming soon Factory Team SC10 4X4??

The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way??

Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit.

Thanks.
Robert

It will not work without cutting it in half and using Velcro.

carrotcake 02-28-2012 06:54 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10397657)
It will not work without cutting it in half and using Velcro.

Thanks....darn it...

They shouldn't put this part under the list for the Factory Team Kit.

SCTDan 02-28-2012 06:58 PM

So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 sct. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.

Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 14/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it

CoyoteSlash 02-28-2012 07:15 PM


Originally Posted by carrotcake (Post 10397682)
Thanks....darn it...

They shouldn't put this part under the list for the Factory Team Kit.

Well. If you try really hard to cut the sections that hit the chassis brace, you'll still hack up the cover, but it will slide down to the point to velcro at the sides inside the Nerf bars. I'm just not sure "how much" cutting because I haven't seen the brace. "my" brace, only takes a little chop on the cover to fit the cover over.

CoyoteSlash 02-28-2012 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by SCTDan (Post 10397709)
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 act. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.

Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 15/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it

Other than the Center mounted Battery, and Front White in the rear, this is my Truck. And I push out of the corners like it's going out of style. I might be playing with springs sunday alot more heavily than I originally thought. Thanks for the food for thought SCT, and Craig.
(yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit)

PastaBoyNY 02-28-2012 07:30 PM

Lets see what happens...
 

Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10395643)
The rears are too soft. The fronts are okay. Compounding the problem is between 52-58% of the total vehicle weight is on the rear, making that spring act even softer.

Front springs are slightly too short for use on the rear, so if you try them, you'll need a 2mm spacer between the eyelet and the spring bucket to shim it up.

If you have a set of stock blue fronts lying around try it. It'll fly a lot better.

Craig, I actually had front blues that I swapped out for Yellows a few weeks ago. Just popped them on the rear for practice tomorrow. I currently have about 3mm of fuel tubing that I was using to limit the up travel on the shock. It is placed above the bucket. So the order is, Eyelet, bucket, fuel tubing. Will see how that works. Will have to check for ride height at the track tomorrow seeing as I am transporting two trucks both with their wheels off. Thanks for all the research!

Sal
:tire:

PastaBoyNY 02-28-2012 07:33 PM

Thanks Dan...
 

Originally Posted by SCTDan (Post 10397709)
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 sct. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.

Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 14/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it

Im running stock pistons with 27.5 rear and 32.5 front. Going to try the blue fronts on the rear tomorrow. Thanks for the input! Sways are 2.0 front and rear I believe....something else I will have to check tomorrow.

Sal
:tire:

PastaBoyNY 02-28-2012 07:36 PM

Welcome back into the fold....
 

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10397805)
Other than the Center mounted Battery, and Front White in the rear, this is my Truck. And I push out of the corners like it's going out of style. I might be playing with springs sunday alot more heavily than I originally thought. Thanks for the food for thought SCT, and Craig.
(yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit)


Welcome back from the edge Shaun....lol. You have a PM. Brace fixed, waiting for Diff news if any.

Sal

carrotcake 02-28-2012 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10397793)
Well. If you try really hard to cut the sections that hit the chassis brace, you'll still hack up the cover, but it will slide down to the point to velcro at the sides inside the Nerf bars. I'm just not sure "how much" cutting because I haven't seen the brace. "my" brace, only takes a little chop on the cover to fit the cover over.

Hm...I see..ok Thanks again~


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