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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10395495)
My saddle packs were just delivered to my house, I want to go home and run this thing now!!
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Originally Posted by jodyfj40
(Post 10396073)
I posted awhile ago about a clicking noise i was having under heavy throttle. I took the rear diff out and replaced the diff oil that was leaking out and put everything back together. The noise went away for a week or so and returned today at the track. It will click under hard throttle and while turning towards the driver side but not while turning toward the passenger side. What do you guys think. Just seems weird that it went away then came back. btw I am running the factory battery tray and stock slipper, but have the brace and mantis center diff coming soon.
Thanks Jody I had the same problem,I would change oil and it would go away then I shimed it like everyone else did and went away for a while. Well it came back so sence my outdrives were really loose I order new diffs front and rear and new gears too. In my case my sun gear where warn out and rounded off compared to the new ones. Sence I replaced both diffs with all new parts no clicking noise under hard acceleration. Hope this helps |
Originally Posted by special_k
(Post 10396158)
I had the same problem,I would change oil and it woul0d go away then I shimed it like everyone else did and went away for a while. Well it came back so sence my outdrives were really loose I order new diffs front and rear and new gears too. In my case my sun gear where warn out and rounded off compared to the new ones. Sence I replaced both diffs with all new parts no clicking noise under hard acceleration. Hope this helps
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Well here she is saddle packed n ready to go, think I'm gonna go up in rear spring even before I take it out on the track, a little too soft.
These are 6000 mah, can't wait to drive it. :cool: |
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10396416)
Well here she is saddle packed n ready to go, think I'm gonna go up in rear spring even before I take it out on the track, a little too soft.
These are 6000 mah, can't wait to drive it. :cool: |
Team Associated Underbody for FACTORY TEAM SC10 4x4 kit
Does anybody know or think the current Team Associated Underbody (ASC91168) for SC10 4x4 would fit on the coming soon Factory Team SC10 4X4??
The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way?? Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit. Thanks. Robert |
Originally Posted by carrotcake
(Post 10397642)
Does anybody know or think the current Team Associated Underbody (ASC91168) for SC10 4x4 would fit on the coming soon Factory Team SC10 4X4??
The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way?? Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit. Thanks. Robert |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10397657)
It will not work without cutting it in half and using Velcro.
They shouldn't put this part under the list for the Factory Team Kit. |
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 sct. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv MMP Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis 3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery -1 camber front rear 0 toe 1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway 22mm ride hight weight bias front 48% rear 52% Yellow front springs white front springs on rear center diff RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear Gearing 14/60 Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers Chassis brace 1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear think that's about it |
Originally Posted by carrotcake
(Post 10397682)
Thanks....darn it...
They shouldn't put this part under the list for the Factory Team Kit. |
Originally Posted by SCTDan
(Post 10397709)
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 act. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv MMP Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis 3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery -1 camber front rear 0 toe 1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway 22mm ride hight weight bias front 48% rear 52% Yellow front springs white front springs on rear center diff RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear Gearing 15/60 Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers Chassis brace 1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear think that's about it (yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit) |
Lets see what happens...
Originally Posted by CraigMBA
(Post 10395643)
The rears are too soft. The fronts are okay. Compounding the problem is between 52-58% of the total vehicle weight is on the rear, making that spring act even softer.
Front springs are slightly too short for use on the rear, so if you try them, you'll need a 2mm spacer between the eyelet and the spring bucket to shim it up. If you have a set of stock blue fronts lying around try it. It'll fly a lot better. Sal :tire: |
Thanks Dan...
Originally Posted by SCTDan
(Post 10397709)
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 sct. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv MMP Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis 3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery -1 camber front rear 0 toe 1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway 22mm ride hight weight bias front 48% rear 52% Yellow front springs white front springs on rear center diff RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear Gearing 14/60 Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers Chassis brace 1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear think that's about it Sal :tire: |
Welcome back into the fold....
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10397805)
Other than the Center mounted Battery, and Front White in the rear, this is my Truck. And I push out of the corners like it's going out of style. I might be playing with springs sunday alot more heavily than I originally thought. Thanks for the food for thought SCT, and Craig.
(yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit) Welcome back from the edge Shaun....lol. You have a PM. Brace fixed, waiting for Diff news if any. Sal |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10397793)
Well. If you try really hard to cut the sections that hit the chassis brace, you'll still hack up the cover, but it will slide down to the point to velcro at the sides inside the Nerf bars. I'm just not sure "how much" cutting because I haven't seen the brace. "my" brace, only takes a little chop on the cover to fit the cover over.
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