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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

CoyoteSlash 02-27-2012 08:24 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10392796)
I AM S O PISSED RIGHT NOW......... So i get on to Amain and order the Orion Vortexr10

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S

It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH:flaming:

"The R10 Race ESC was developed specifically for 0-Timing class racing." ~paragraph 1
~ I always check the main websites before I order anything. I don't listen to a word the dealer websites have to say.

Even a Castle has reverse rotation, so that's pretty odd imo.

rickybobbyxxx 02-27-2012 08:31 PM

Hey marcus, download orions new software, it will give u boost and timing capabilitys, im running the same esc and love it

rickybobbyxxx 02-27-2012 08:33 PM

Oh wait, i have the r10 pro, sorry

Mizchief 02-27-2012 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10392796)
I AM S O PISSED RIGHT NOW......... So i get on to Amain and order the Orion Vortexr10

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S

It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH:flaming:

They will probably give you at least most of it back as store credit. I had a problem with a motor/esc combo that I ran a couple of times before it died and they gave me store credit for it.

BlueGlowBoy 02-27-2012 08:44 PM


Originally Posted by jsamarin (Post 10392823)
Oh yea, i was putting 4900-5050mah back into my battery in 6 mins with no warm up laps with a 4000kv pro 4

Does this seem high to anyone else? I run the Tekin 5.5T SC4x, which is 4000kv as well....and I know this isn't entirely comparing apples to apples, but I can get damn near 15 minutes out of my Reedy 5500s.... 5000mAh in 6 minutes is more than double my power consumption....

The main reason I point this out is that if there is some drag somewhere in jsamarin's drive train, that could explain both the high level of power consumption, and the exploding idler gears.... If it's the rear idler, I'd be looking for drag between the idler, diff, rear CVDs, and rear hubs.

alex4r 02-27-2012 08:48 PM

I get 13.5 minutes out of my 4800 gens saddles, I think I use 1500-2000mah in a 5 minute heat with a few warmup laps.

CoyoteSlash 02-27-2012 09:08 PM


Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy (Post 10393012)
Does this seem high to anyone else? I run the Tekin 5.5T SC4x, which is 4000kv as well....and I know this isn't entirely comparing apples to apples, but I can get damn near 15 minutes out of my Reedy 5500s.... 5000mAh in 6 minutes is more than double my power consumption....

The main reason I point this out is that if there is some drag somewhere in jsamarin's drive train, that could explain both the high level of power consumption, and the exploding idler gears.... If it's the rear idler, I'd be looking for drag between the idler, diff, rear CVDs, and rear hubs.

I'm with you on that one. That mAh Drain is insane.

I definitely noticed a much larger drain with my Pro 4 than my 1410. Kinda upsettingly so, but it's a race motor so I shrugged it. But it is not as drastic as his.

I think it's Trublshewt tym!

Thomas P 02-27-2012 09:31 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10389398)
Tighten the belt adjusters one notch tighter. Make sure they are fairly equal front and rear (you don't want one fully tight, and the other fully loose).

Make sure your chassis brace is still intact. You should be able to push both shock towers together and not have the belt tension change. If it does, you need to make the brace longer.


Thank you Craig, i might done a minor misstake here, and tighten the front one klick to much...il look over it.

The brace is intact,and working ace :nod:

Thanks again Craig for the tip :)

/T

heavyjeffd 02-27-2012 09:38 PM

Anyone experience some difficult to troubleshoot driveline binding/lag/friction (pick your favorite descriptive term).

In short:

Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.

Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.

I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).

Kind of at a loss. :\

Farmer_John 02-28-2012 04:52 AM


Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 10393230)
Anyone experience some difficult to troubleshoot driveline binding/lag/friction (pick your favorite descriptive term).

In short:

Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.

Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.

I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).

Kind of at a loss. :\

Check that you didn't over tighten the gear cases and that the proper screw is in the proper hole with washers.

That's all I can think of...right now. Need coffee...

BlueGlowBoy 02-28-2012 05:31 AM


Originally Posted by heavyjeffd (Post 10393230)
Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.

Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.

I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).

Kind of at a loss. :\

When you say all new bearings, I'm going to assume this includes the tensioner bearings? (I've seen some people overlook them and just want to make sure that you didn't.) Mine where shot, and the heat they had generated had warped the plastic that the front one gets screwed into. Those two things combined were giving me some pretty bad drag.

AE/STRC - I'd like to see an aluminum front inner belt housing....the rear goes into aluminum....the front should too. (Yes, I know....more weight up high....but less flex in the belt tunnel.)

nmdesertracer 02-28-2012 05:33 AM

I run my tensioners at the looses level. make sure the belt cover is not bowed towards the battery side.

MantisWorx 02-28-2012 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg (Post 10390160)
I guess none of the AE guys ran. I seen picutures of RC truck practicing but I guess did not run. From what I heard Lutz was runing the stage 2's

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Just talked to Ryan he was running RCshox pistons!!:nod:

beaven 02-28-2012 09:19 AM

had similar issues when i overhauled mine,check the screws that go thru the motor plate,mine were hitting the back of the slipper....

SCTDan 02-28-2012 10:23 AM

At the track right now trying the white front springs on the rear. After 1 pack I'm really liking it. Also went with a lighter front sway and heavy rear. Working on better on power steering. So far I really like the results. Faster on the sweepers and I can really get on it half way through the hair pins and hardly push at all.


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