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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
(Post 10918887)
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean. The optional "C" hub that everybody is running is shorter than the plastic "A" and "B" hubs. I should be over 8mm.
but using the b4.1 b tower like you did it looks like all 3 holes line up very well. any chance of a straight on shot from the back? any chance of you measuring the increase in height from stock ballstud? |
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
(Post 10918755)
I stole somebody's plastic B4 hub idea. I'll be giving it a go on Sunday, if I can find a replacement spur gear.
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10919018)
hubs have 3 holes that change turnbuckle length (camber). if you use the C towers or b4 plastic you only get the 2 inner holes for "length" in comparison to the stock sc104x4 hub.
but using the b4.1 b tower like you did it looks like all 3 holes line up very well. any chance of a straight on shot from the back? any chance of you measuring the increase in height from stock ballstud? |
Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
(Post 10919059)
You really only get 1 and I guess -1 on the carbon ones unless you run them toward the outside by a hole on the bottom.
my outer hole lines up with the middle on stock and middle on mine lines up with inner on stock. i have never really liked a shorter link in the rear, so tried to find my own way around it without getting some g10 lol |
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg337...pg&res=landing
my final version. http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg690...pg&res=landing took one off for a picture. |
2 Attachment(s)
I'll bust out the calipers when I get back home. The outermost hole is about even with the stock outer. If I really wrench on the top of the wheel, then it'll catch on the ribs a little. Nothing 5 seconds with the Dremel can't solve.
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I'm sorry if all this information has already been discussed in this thread, I'm new to 4wd and need a ton of help. I've run 2wd SC10 and 2wd B4.1 but I've never ran anything 4wd. For a SC10 4x4 can I just run my normal 2s LiPo's, a normal 1/10 steering servo, and a normal 1/10 motor and speed control? Like a speed control and a motor out of a 2wd SC10 or B4? I know you want like a 5.5 or 4.5 for a motor, but is it a normal 1/10 motor or is it a 1/8 motor? Thanks for the help.
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Originally Posted by AErckidd
(Post 10919366)
For a SC10 4x4 can I just run my normal 2s LiPo's, a normal 1/10 steering servo, and a normal 1/10 motor and speed control? Like a speed control and a motor out of a 2wd SC10 or B4? I know you want like a 5.5 or 4.5 for a motor, but is it a normal 1/10 motor or is it a 1/8 motor? Thanks for the help.
if you plan to run a 4-pole motor, i would look into a tekin rx8 or another 150a speed control (such as hobbywing c-xerun 150a) as for servo just about any standard servo will fit in the truck, but highly suggested atleast 200 oz of torque. on the first page they list the servos that have a long enough lead to not need an extension, ie the savox 1256 / 1258 or the hitec 965 / 985. for motors a 540 will work in the truck but may require extra cooling. 550 2pole motors are a good mix of torque and smoothness, alot of people do run tekin pro4 4000kv and some even a 4600kv. these are not 8th scale motors either. an 8th scale motor is normally alittle heavier, and less kv, because 8th scale normally run 3s-4s. normally a 540 motor that would be ran in the truck is in the range of a 6.5 to 7.5, a 550 motor would normally be a 4.5 to a 5.5, and a 4-pole motor would be in the range of 3800kv to 4600kv, this of course is all with a 2s lipo. also if you plan to race roar races you need to know that pro4 is limited to 2s, 2-pole 550 motors, or 2 and 4 pole 540 motors, motors like the tenshock are not currently roar legal |
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10919391)
most of ae's team drivers are running a 1/10th scale lrp sxx tc, but this is with 540/550 2-pole motors only.
if you plan to run a 4-pole motor, i would look into a tekin rx8 or another 150a speed control (such as hobbywing c-xerun 150a) as for servo just about any standard servo will fit in the truck, but highly suggested atleast 200 oz of torque. on the first page they list the servos that have a long enough lead to not need an extension, ie the savox 1256 / 1258 or the hitec 965 / 985. for motors a 540 will work in the truck but may require extra cooling. 550 2pole motors are a good mix of torque and smoothness, alot of people do run tekin pro4 4000kv and some even a 4600kv. these are not 8th scale motors either. an 8th scale motor is normally alittle heavier, and less kv, because 8th scale normally run 3s-4s. normally a 540 motor that would be ran in the truck is in the range of a 6.5 to 7.5, a 550 motor would normally be a 4.5 to a 5.5, and a 4-pole motor would be in the range of 3800kv to 4600kv, this of course is all with a 2s lipo. also if you plan to race roar races you need to know that pro4 is limited to 2s, 2-pole 550 motors, or 2 and 4 pole 540 motors, motors like the tenshock are not currently roar legal |
Originally Posted by AErckidd
(Post 10919445)
So I have an Airtronics servo that I'm planning on running, I'm probably going to have to get a extension because I don't believe it's going to reach. But I want to get a Tekin speed control and a Tekin motor for it, about equivalent to a 5.5, but I would like it to be ROAR legal. What are some motors and speed controls from Tekin that would fit that?
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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 10919484)
The RX8 esc and 4000 kv Pro4 motor are your best bets. "equivalent of a 5.5" can get lost in translation when going from a 2wd to a 4wd.
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Originally Posted by AErckidd
(Post 10919494)
Are those two ROAR Legal?
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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 10919495)
Yup
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Originally Posted by AErckidd
(Post 10919511)
Awesome, thanks for the help!
and the rx8 is a great speedo, it is a really great combo if you can afford it. |
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Is there some sort of issue with the optional steering racks?
Both my brother in law and I had gotten the FT upgrade kit. My brother in law had 3 runs on his when the steering rack broke. Today, after a flat landing (all fours) off a jump, mine broke.. in the exact same spot. |
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