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Old 03-06-2012 | 04:17 PM
  #18751  
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Originally Posted by Cain
sounds like he is implying RPM arms.
Yeah. I read the whole thing twice and missed it.


The RPM arms have a swoop upwards the stockers do not. You would have noticed they didn't just bolt on easy. They had to flex.

Dremel that spot that and they will be just fine.

- Lemme know if you need a pic. I'm painting bodies and building a PC at the same time over here.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 04:18 PM
  #18752  
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Originally Posted by Devigili22
Anyone want to tell me the best way to go about installing a new servo? Bought a roller off of a fellow member, and the task looks daunting.
coyoteslash has a great step by step on how to get into that area very quick and hassle free. Search quick transmission removal, or something like that and it should come up.

edit:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9892005

Post 10593


And coyote, no pics needed man, its pretty easy to see what you mean. I think im just going to put a fresh set of stock arms on. Ive never really been a fan of the rpm's anyways.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 04:47 PM
  #18753  
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updated Rx8 with 223, looking forward to trying it out.

also put orange sway on rear. looked almost identical to the one I had on there before..

oh well.

just need some fresh double dees and Im good to go this weekend.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 05:37 PM
  #18754  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
updated Rx8 with 223, looking forward to trying it out.

also put orange sway on rear. looked almost identical to the one I had on there before..

oh well.

just need some fresh double dees and Im good to go this weekend.
I thought the same thing but if you measure them with some calipers, it tells you the truth, its actually 1.807 front and 1.788 in the rear.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:05 PM
  #18755  
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yea I was too lazy to bring them out of my box lol. Looked like I had a 2.0 on there before, I thought I had a 1.5 in there.

can't wait to try it out. i get paid in 3 hrs and i'm going to the hobby shop tomm for some goodies!
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:28 PM
  #18756  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
yea I was too lazy to bring them out of my box lol. Looked like I had a 2.0 on there before, I thought I had a 1.5 in there.

can't wait to try it out. i get paid in 3 hrs and i'm going to the hobby shop tomm for some goodies!
Lucky!!! I have court tomorrow morning and then heading out to the range to make sure the marines can shoot there stinger's properly, haha.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:35 PM
  #18757  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Your lucky to get 9 min with that set-up ....
Bet the temps are way up there, say 190 <> 200 ?

12T max


have use the same motor before
I did not get lucky sir and your bet is wrong, sorry.

Temp's are right around 160-170 depending on the ambient temperature.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:37 PM
  #18758  
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Originally Posted by bohdi
how are you wiring the batt to your car?
Series or Parallel?
Series I guess. It's the same as how you would do normal saddles, with the little jumper wire in the middle.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:44 PM
  #18759  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
In my 1s chassis, I only use about 1300mha. Battery voltage at the beginning of the charge is like 3.95 or so, finish charge is 4.22. I changed to a Thunder Power charger because my ICE would only charge to 4.18 before stopping, charging the extra .04v was worth another 400mha and about .2 per lap in a car that does laps in the range of 4.2 seconds or so...

I would expect your start voltage per pack to be about 3.8 given the amount of charge they are taking.

You can fabricate a balance plug and charge as a 2s if it makes your life easier. I can take a picture of mine and post it if you want, but I'm warning you - it looks pretty sketchy. It does work, and I charge at 20 amps.
I was thinking about getting one from amain next time I order, thanks anyway though.

Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I think we found your problem. I'd set the timing back to whatever the factory setting is and set your speed control at 1-0-2-2 (Kody's) or 1-0-0-2 (Ryans). It'll probally make more power and run cooler for your trouble.

(I don't use LRP, that setting is what Kody used here)

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...h_Spektrum.pdf

(Ryan's here)

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a..._Cavalieri.pdf
Thanks alot craig. I will give these a shot when I got and test in the next day or so. Do you think I should drop a tooth or 2 on my pinion? I'm currently running a 14t.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:54 PM
  #18760  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
You can kind of see them in this picture from the races this past weekend.
Dude, you take the belt covers off, but worry about mud guards for the rear arms..... on an indoor track?!
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Old 03-06-2012 | 06:55 PM
  #18761  
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Default SC10 vs SCTE weight comparison

Ok here is the first comparison I've been able to do between the two 4x4's

Both running tekin rx8 and pro4 motor, scte has all the mods to lighten it and the sc10 has weight added in several areas......No lipo/body on either


SCTE 5.11 lb's total





SC10 5.45 lb's total





Should I have weighed them without the tires for a more accurate total, and I remember people mentioning things about cross weight how is the weight on either 4x4 good or bad when talking it comes to the cross weight?? Thanks
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Old 03-06-2012 | 07:15 PM
  #18762  
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Default TiN shock shafts

I bent a front shock shaft today and was going to order replacement(s). Are the gold TiN shafts a worthwhile uprgade, or just bling? I searched and could not find anything specific.....Thanks

jz
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Old 03-06-2012 | 07:18 PM
  #18763  
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Default still chasing the clicking gremlin

Guys I am stiil trying to figure out the clicking under hard acceleration and turning. I looked it over and also had the LHS tech take it apart and he said the rear diff was good but found a bearing going bad. replaced all the hub bearings and and it still clicks. I wanted to make sure it was in the rear so i removed the belt and the clicking is still there. Also the motor is still running hot which I feel may be related to the clicking issue. Please help
Thanks
Jody
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Old 03-06-2012 | 07:27 PM
  #18764  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I ran red rears vs. green front this past Sunday and liked the greens still. Bench testing you can feel the difference and the truck feels better on our current layout. It has to do with coil bind and the distance the shock travels.
Ran rear Reds for one heat last Friday...truck felt better everywhere but the jumps, I had to be on the gas hard or the backend would want to over rotate...gonna try green/white front's this Fri @ practice and see if it's any different.
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Old 03-06-2012 | 07:27 PM
  #18765  
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Originally Posted by jzpilot
I bent a front shock shaft today and was going to order replacement(s). Are the gold TiN shafts a worthwhile uprgade, or just bling? I searched and could not find anything specific.....Thanks

jz
I installed them on day one of the build and haven't had any issues. I had a lot of problems on my ruslter with the stock shafts bending till I got the Ti's for it, so I figured it was the thing to do.

However by that logic they also repel bears since I haven't been attacked by a bear since then.
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