Throwindirt

Ready to upgrade my RTR esc & motor but not sure what to get was thinking of keeping the esc and pairing it with the castle 1410 but now I'm leaning towards the new viper copperhead system w/ the 5150. those of you using this motor how would you gear it for a med sized track thats technical with a straightaway thats around 80ft long. Thanks for your help Bob

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

i'd start with a 14T.

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

Help needed! I am trying to get my new losi scte ready torace tomorrow,Is it normal to need to grind alittle off of the front TLR alum hinge pin holder to get it to fit flush with the chassis? Thanks,

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Stock chassis?
I didn't on mine, they slipped right into place.

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

yessir,stock chassis.the rear front hinge holder will not fit the chassi?

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Thats odd... Mine went right together no problem..
Make sure you dont have the front and rear holder switched...
Otherwise IDK why it doesn't fit.

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

BAM!! I am tired...that was the peoblem.... thanks man

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Ok, cool...

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

same can't wait either.. getting ancy!! Look forward to seeing you (everyone) again.. I have not made it up much lately either but with two tracks they are sure to get most of my attention :P indoor and outdoor offroad.


WOW is that an old picture.. LOL back before I unloaded my BCE

I did pm you, on the bullets.. standard plug with a round top with a flat spot on one side for the wire. I'm sure most LHS's have them. But THIS is basically it (sorry for the delay work and racing tonight)

Here is my vehicle as she is now.. and I dialed her in more tonight getting ready for the outdoor season; WOW is it a beast! Feels great w/ the Bump chassis and rx8 w/ 4600, sob rips, and i mean rips. Just hope I can keep temps in line.. I'm not sure a 14t is going to work mid summer.. time will tell. Rx8 is 10timing and 75limiter.

PS anyone using my setup sheet, keep in mind the springs listed were prior to the race springs.. I have on my 6lb truck now blue race front, orange race rears. At the end of the year, outdoors I ended up with black race front & green race rear, with the stock chassis (still that way on that scte, yes I have two for a few more weeks). I've yet to really race this setup, only practice and only on the indoor offroad not the 1/8 scale track yet. Soon..

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

THANKS!
Those are the right 4mm plugs, I've been looking for those!

rctrucker2

OK, I have all the grease out of my diff and everything is nice and clean ready to put back together and fill with silicon oil. I have read on here that people use silicone glue, ATV or tire glue on the little square spacers that go into the diff housing to hold the gear shafts. Why do you need to glue them in, it does not seem necessary. I do not understand the purpose. Sure would appreciate someone explaining why it is done as well as best way to do it. Thanks for the help.

Josey Wales

iTrader: (12)

your putting to much thought into it just fill it drive your truck and have fun dude its not a big deal. the only leak I had was through the outdrive a little rvt and boom its fixed

Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for sharing your setup keep me posted on what works for you on 1/8 scale tracks. I don't get a lot of time at the track to test these days and might need some ideas on setup.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

glue is used around the insert for two reasons: 1) to keep the insert fully seated against the diff housing. people have had those move in and create binding in the diffs. 2) to seal the diff as fluid can leak out between the insert and the housing.

i have used CA glue. others use silicone.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

Some body has been racing against David Jensen That kid is so fast!!!! He's a really nice kid too. But at like 10 years old, he's making us old guys (me, not you) look bad That motor works great for him.
Yeah that motor is a serious beast out there! if your temps get too high, dial back the timing. Honestly, this motor doesn't need any timing. For indoor run a 13T, the 14T will probably be good for outdoor, but you might have to dial back the limiter back to 65-70%. I met someone who had theirs at 60% to keep temps down, but it didn't seem to affect the performance of the motor one bit.

BTW, I saw the new Hi-Performance Body in person last week, as Ryan (Hacker07) was running one on his truck, it looks similar to the Jconcepts body but with higher Fender lines. It looks REALLY nice in person and the holes for venting are very well placed. I have to say, this body was VERY well thought out, especially for those who are planning on running it on their 2wd trucks or race outdoors with HUGE jumps where kiting is more prevalent. Also, one thing that really made me happy about this body, there's plenty of room so your body clips don't hit the side of the scoop on the hood or the roll bar lines in the rear like my Jconcepts body does. I can't wait to get one and have it painted up so I can run it!!!


Also, anyone see these on the TLRacing.com site yet? No more cutting out bladder centers and perfect rebound EVERY time like the 22RTR caps, Oooohhhh Ahhhh PRETTY AND FUNCTIONAL!!!!
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR5062