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Old 04-07-2012, 12:27 AM
  #32311  
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Originally Posted by rctrucker2
OK, I have all the grease out of my diff and everything is nice and clean ready to put back together and fill with silicon oil. I have read on here that people use silicone glue, ATV or tire glue on the little square spacers that go into the diff housing to hold the gear shafts. Why do you need to glue them in, it does not seem necessary. I do not understand the purpose. Sure would appreciate someone explaining why it is done as well as best way to do it. Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
glue is used around the insert for two reasons: 1) to keep the insert fully seated against the diff housing. people have had those move in and create binding in the diffs. 2) to seal the diff as fluid can leak out between the insert and the housing.

i have used CA glue. others use silicone.
RC PHREAK is spot on, but I want to make sure you are gluing/RTV the right thing. I haven't heard of anybody gluing "the little square spacers that go into the diff housing to hold the gear shafts" I would think that would be hard to then remove the gears. What RC PHREAK and others are talking about(please correct me if I'm wrong) is the black insert that the drive shaft goes through on the end. The part that holds the little o-ring in the middle.

BTW I used blue RTV and seems to be holding just fine.
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:40 AM
  #32312  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Some body has been racing against David Jensen That kid is so fast!!!! He's a really nice kid too. But at like 10 years old, he's making us old guys (me, not you) look bad That motor works great for him.
I've only raced with him twice, but he is fast for a 10 year old forsure! Do you know what turn motor he runs? 4.0 or 4.5?
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:47 AM
  #32313  
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing
I've only raced with him twice, but he is fast for a 10 year old forsure! Do you know what turn motor he runs? 4.0 or 4.5?
yeah, he turns me into lapped traffic Thunder Power was REALLY smart to sponsor him at such a young age. It's hilarious, because if you look at the drivers stand, there's all these adults and then him at like 4'5 or something. After the race, if you don't know who he is, you'd expect to see him pick up the truck that couldn't seem to stay on it's wheels or between the pipes (there's always at least or or 5 of those), then he goes and picks up the little red truck that spanked everybody He's a serious talent and now he's running 2wd buggy and only getting better and better. Super nice family as well which is nice to see. Not sure which motor he's running tho. I'll ask him or his dad on Sunday if I see him at WCRC. I'm sure he'll be there because of the JConcepts race.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:38 AM
  #32314  
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
RC PHREAK is spot on, but I want to make sure you are gluing/RTV the right thing. I haven't heard of anybody gluing "the little square spacers that go into the diff housing to hold the gear shafts" I would think that would be hard to then remove the gears. What RC PHREAK and others are talking about(please correct me if I'm wrong) is the black insert that the drive shaft goes through on the end. The part that holds the little o-ring in the middle.

BTW I used blue RTV and seems to be holding just fine.
Thank you for the great information RC Phreak, that explains it very well. Woody you are spot on. I was totally confused on this. I thought they were talking about the square metal spacers and no wonder I could not see any reason to seal them. Now, looking at the diff housing and black insert, I can totally understand what you are saying and how it would help.
Where do you apply the RVT to the black insert? It looks like maybe around the barrel or under the collar of the insert. What seems to work best? I assume that either CA or Blue RVT is permanent so the insert is glued to the plastic housing. Would there ever be a reason to want to take the insert out of the plastic housing? Sorry for all the questions, I know I am over thinking this but I want to learn to do it right the first time.
Thank you for your help RC Phreak and Woody, you guys are great contributors and have been very helpful to all us newbies.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:22 AM
  #32315  
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Default Please help with my SCTE with Power-on understeer.

How do I increase my power- on steering on my SCTE Ten? My car steers fine with power off, but understeers terribly when I add the power. I've listed the details of my setup below, but I'm wondering which tuning options have the biggest effect (in what order) to increase power-on steering...balance, shocks, diff oils, etc. Is there a guide somewhere like a troubleshooting guide?

Thanks,
Joe

Losi SCTE rolling Chassis
JR Z9100S Steering servo (.06 sec 180 oz)
Suburbs tires
Tekin 4600
Mamba Max
TLR Tuning Kit
Diff oils 6K (Front), 5K (mid), 3K (rear)
450 Shock oil
13 pinion, Stock Spur


More info:
On a clay indoor track (OC RC raceway)
I've got the servo saver cranked tight and glued it so there is no play.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:41 AM
  #32316  
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Default Emulsion Shock Mod

Can someone explain to me not only the benefits of the emulsion shock mod, but how to actually do it?
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:58 AM
  #32317  
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Originally Posted by bakerman
How do I increase my power- on steering on my SCTE Ten? My car steers fine with power off, but understeers terribly when I add the power. I've listed the details of my setup below, but I'm wondering which tuning options have the biggest effect (in what order) to increase power-on steering...balance, shocks, diff oils, etc. Is there a guide somewhere like a troubleshooting guide?

Thanks,
Joe

Losi SCTE rolling Chassis
JR Z9100S Steering servo (.06 sec 180 oz)
Suburbs tires
Tekin 4600
Mamba Max
TLR Tuning Kit
Diff oils 6K (Front), 5K (mid), 3K (rear)
450 Shock oil
13 pinion, Stock Spur


More info:
On a clay indoor track (OC RC raceway)
I've got the servo saver cranked tight and glued it so there is no play.
Go lower in the diff fluids , I like 3-3-2 for tight indoor tracks ......
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:10 AM
  #32318  
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Originally Posted by bakerman
How do I increase my power- on steering on my SCTE Ten? My car steers fine with power off, but understeers terribly when I add the power. I've listed the details of my setup below, but I'm wondering which tuning options have the biggest effect (in what order) to increase power-on steering...balance, shocks, diff oils, etc. Is there a guide somewhere like a troubleshooting guide?

Thanks,
Joe

Losi SCTE rolling Chassis
JR Z9100S Steering servo (.06 sec 180 oz)
Suburbs tires
Tekin 4600
Mamba Max
TLR Tuning Kit
Diff oils 6K (Front), 5K (mid), 3K (rear)
450 Shock oil
13 pinion, Stock Spur


More info:
On a clay indoor track (OC RC raceway)
I've got the servo saver cranked tight and glued it so there is no play.

You could move your shock out on the tower for more steering. or move your battery all the way forward or change gear oils or lower bottom clearance in front with shock adjustments, sway bars , many ways to go. depends on track size. and your set ups. Where are you with your shocks and what oils ?
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:15 AM
  #32319  
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Originally Posted by Krafcik
Can someone explain to me not only the benefits of the emulsion shock mod, but how to actually do it?

what it does is make the truck more planted when it lands with more control.

how to do it. cut your bladders in the middle (make it a circle) you dont have to be an expert just cut it out. then put it together bleed it and go try it. only problem is if you mess up and you dont like the way it feels you will be buying new bladders
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:09 PM
  #32320  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
yeah, he turns me into lapped traffic Thunder Power was REALLY smart to sponsor him at such a young age. It's hilarious, because if you look at the drivers stand, there's all these adults and then him at like 4'5 or something. After the race, if you don't know who he is, you'd expect to see him pick up the truck that couldn't seem to stay on it's wheels or between the pipes (there's always at least or or 5 of those), then he goes and picks up the little red truck that spanked everybody He's a serious talent and now he's running 2wd buggy and only getting better and better. Super nice family as well which is nice to see. Not sure which motor he's running tho. I'll ask him or his dad on Sunday if I see him at WCRC. I'm sure he'll be there because of the JConcepts race.
I no its hilarious, like when he came down to SDRC, everyone is about 2-3 1/2 above the drivers stand... then you look at him and his head is barely over the driver stand wall.
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:26 PM
  #32321  
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Originally Posted by Krafcik
Can someone explain to me not only the benefits of the emulsion shock mod, but how to actually do it?
You can use oring instead of cutting the bladders, I have a bunch of on road stuff around so I found a oring from the shock collar on a xray tc shock fit perfect. The size its important.
O-Ring 12.1x1.6
Xray #970121
10 per pack.
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:17 PM
  #32322  
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Originally Posted by JamesReilly
You can use oring instead of cutting the bladders, I have a bunch of on road stuff around so I found a oring from the shock collar on a xray tc shock fit perfect. The size its important.
O-Ring 12.1x1.6
Xray #970121
10 per pack.
next dumb question - how do you bleed it? What keeps the fluid from escaping out of the hole in the shock collar if you remove the middle of the bladder?
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:27 PM
  #32323  
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Originally Posted by rifraf
BAM!! I am tired...that was the peoblem.... thanks man
. Classic !!!
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:33 PM
  #32324  
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Originally Posted by Krafcik
next dumb question - how do you bleed it? What keeps the fluid from escaping out of the hole in the shock collar if you remove the middle of the bladder?
the hole in the cap is below the top of the gasket. when you bleed it you fill it to the top put the cap on holding it at around 45 degrees. slowly screw the cap on at the angle with the hole pointed to the top with the shock compressed all the way in.. do that until holding the shock level to one another and compress both and see if the rebound the same.. if they dont do it over tell they match in equal rebound..
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:38 PM
  #32325  
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Those of you using the Attebery diff inserts, do you still need the small shim that goes between the insert and the sun gear with this upgrade?
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