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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-03-2012, 07:59 PM
  #39796  
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Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer
When you put the inserts in, are they flush with the outside of the diff case or are they extended a little bit? They should be extended a little.

They had an incrementL amount sticking out. I made sure to push them in as far as they would go. Really getting sick of these diffs and wish an aftermarket company would make improved ones.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
They had an incrementL amount sticking out. I made sure to push them in as far as they would go. Really getting sick of these diffs and wish an aftermarket company would make improved ones.
Try using RTV next time on the inserts. Mine always turn out smooth.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:22 PM
  #39798  
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I just remembered some people tried using 2 paper diff seals instead of 1. I think that should free up the diff action a lot. I know there's a way to do it since other people have used ca no problems.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:33 PM
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Yeah, it's not the type of adhesive/silicone that you used that caused the problem. Either the inserts aren't all the way down or something isn't seated correctly. A 2nd gasket will help your situation until whatever isn't seated correctly shifts and then you'll probably end up replacing the gear set. My brother-in-law went with the 2 gasket setup to help stop the leaking but then ended up stripping the gears once they got broke in because the mesh wasn't tight enough.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:01 PM
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i sealed my xxx-sct gear diff with black gasket sealer in a little tube from the autopart store. it is like liquid rubber that firms up after a bit. i just put it on thin with a tooth pick. and it was awesome. no leaking at all ever. comes apart with a hobby knife blade no problem.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Well got kind of sick of my losi tonight. Tried sealing the diff inserts with ca glue and made sure to not get any excess where it wasn't supposed to go. Let it dry and began to put the spider gears etc back in like i always have. Everything meshed up right and felt smooth until i started tightening the diff screws. Seems the diff started locking up really badly around 1/2 a turn to snugly tight. The gears were meshed, but seemed too tight and the diff action wasn't smooth. Even did what ya'll said to break it in using a power drill on the outdrives. Felt exactly the same as before and the diff was getting warm from all the friction. I can usually put my diffs back together great and i have done it at least 15 other times before, but this one just doesn't feel right.
Mine would do the same, especially the center, when you started firming up the screws it would bind and become very notchy. I backed the screws off until it was smooth and used some red RTV silicon gasket sealer around the crown gear (or spur gear in the case of the center diff). No leaky diffs, smooth action.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
not a good idea. i've destroyed a few esc cases using electric parts cleaner to remove servo tape. it causes the plastic to get very brittle.
Hmm I will see. I have a milled chassis thats why dont like servo tape not enough to latch onto but its movable at least. Maybe Ill fashion a cf tray which bolts onto the sideguard screws behind the motor.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:47 PM
  #39803  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Well got kind of sick of my losi tonight. Tried sealing the diff inserts with ca glue and made sure to not get any excess where it wasn't supposed to go. Let it dry and began to put the spider gears etc back in like i always have. Everything meshed up right and felt smooth until i started tightening the diff screws. Seems the diff started locking up really badly around 1/2 a turn to snugly tight. The gears were meshed, but seemed too tight and the diff action wasn't smooth. Even did what ya'll said to break it in using a power drill on the outdrives. Felt exactly the same as before and the diff was getting warm from all the friction. I can usually put my diffs back together great and i have done it at least 15 other times before, but this one just doesn't feel right.
Might be a bad case. It's best to push the inserts in hard and the glue them inside and outside with that waterlike CA. Yeah, the bottom insert should stick out about a fingernail height and the top a little bit less.

Also we at our club let the papergasket soak in brakecleaner and put RTV gasket sealant generously on it.

If the diff feels notchy it's best to start over or change the case.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Well got kind of sick of my losi tonight. Tried sealing the diff inserts with ca glue and made sure to not get any excess where it wasn't supposed to go. Let it dry and began to put the spider gears etc back in like i always have. Everything meshed up right and felt smooth until i started tightening the diff screws. Seems the diff started locking up really badly around 1/2 a turn to snugly tight. The gears were meshed, but seemed too tight and the diff action wasn't smooth. Even did what ya'll said to break it in using a power drill on the outdrives. Felt exactly the same as before and the diff was getting warm from all the friction. I can usually put my diffs back together great and i have done it at least 15 other times before, but this one just doesn't feel right.
Double the paper gaskets and you can tighten it more without leaks. Maybe it's time to buy a new $5 diff case?
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
Double the paper gaskets and you can tighten it more without leaks. Maybe it's time to buy a new $5 diff case?
I tried a different diff case with mine and had the same problem. So buying another isn't necessarily going to solve anything.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:32 AM
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Well i've ran all three diff cases the entire season, so i fon't understand why the ca would cause all these problems. I'm just worried if i put two seals on it, once the diff breaks in, i'll end up having loose gears and stripping them.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:48 AM
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Leave out a shim.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Well got kind of sick of my losi tonight. Tried sealing the diff inserts with ca glue and made sure to not get any excess where it wasn't supposed to go. Let it dry and began to put the spider gears etc back in like i always have. Everything meshed up right and felt smooth until i started tightening the diff screws. Seems the diff started locking up really badly around 1/2 a turn to snugly tight. The gears were meshed, but seemed too tight and the diff action wasn't smooth. Even did what ya'll said to break it in using a power drill on the outdrives. Felt exactly the same as before and the diff was getting warm from all the friction. I can usually put my diffs back together great and i have done it at least 15 other times before, but this one just doesn't feel right.
You may be overfilling the diffs.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:26 AM
  #39809  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Well got kind of sick of my losi tonight. Tried sealing the diff inserts with ca glue and made sure to not get any excess where it wasn't supposed to go. Let it dry and began to put the spider gears etc back in like i always have. Everything meshed up right and felt smooth until i started tightening the diff screws. Seems the diff started locking up really badly around 1/2 a turn to snugly tight. The gears were meshed, but seemed too tight and the diff action wasn't smooth. Even did what ya'll said to break it in using a power drill on the outdrives. Felt exactly the same as before and the diff was getting warm from all the friction. I can usually put my diffs back together great and i have done it at least 15 other times before, but this one just doesn't feel right.
i had the same problem, the inserts were not in the case all the way. it doesnt take much but id bet a pepsi lite thats your issue.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:47 AM
  #39810  
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Originally Posted by allan42r
i had the same problem, the inserts were not in the case all the way. it doesnt take much but id bet a pepsi lite thats your issue.
or the spider gears/pins aren't seated all the way down (with the stock square blocks sometimes you have to put a lot of force on them to get them fully seated which is the main reason why i like APE's round bushings).
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