Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
What do you guys think a brand new losi scte chassis is worth with a full nitro setup on it.. motor broken in and nearly no use.
Motor, pipe, clutch, bell, tank w/hoses, filter, center diff w/ brakes complete, nitro rx tray, losb0818 throttle servo, losb0819 steering servo (see pic all looks near new)
also going to sell a losi mtx pro radio maybe i'll post in sale forum shortly.
Swap on the front/rear clips and bingo nitro scte :P
Motor, pipe, clutch, bell, tank w/hoses, filter, center diff w/ brakes complete, nitro rx tray, losb0818 throttle servo, losb0819 steering servo (see pic all looks near new)
also going to sell a losi mtx pro radio maybe i'll post in sale forum shortly.
Swap on the front/rear clips and bingo nitro scte :P
I installed the TLR chassis and I have the TLR torque rod - where does that get installed?
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
so the pistons come with numbers
smallest holes start at 1 and go up to 5(biggest holes)
in 1 single pack of LOSB2909 you get two of each number.
#1 x 2
#2 x 2
...
#5 x 2
So to answer your question if you need to buy 1 or two packs... answer is depends.
Box stock all 4 shocks have the #3 piston.
If you want the ability to have more than 2 shocks to have the same pistons(assuming you don't want #3 pistons) then yes you need 2 packs. Otherwise 1 pack should be good. Of course they are cheap and it never hurts to have backups. So I don't think buying 2 packs would break you either, however IMOP not needed.
If you are trying Lane's or Dunford setup then you only need 1 pack, as you only need to change out the rear pistons to #4's.
-Woody
smallest holes start at 1 and go up to 5(biggest holes)
in 1 single pack of LOSB2909 you get two of each number.
#1 x 2
#2 x 2
...
#5 x 2
So to answer your question if you need to buy 1 or two packs... answer is depends.
Box stock all 4 shocks have the #3 piston.
If you want the ability to have more than 2 shocks to have the same pistons(assuming you don't want #3 pistons) then yes you need 2 packs. Otherwise 1 pack should be good. Of course they are cheap and it never hurts to have backups. So I don't think buying 2 packs would break you either, however IMOP not needed.
If you are trying Lane's or Dunford setup then you only need 1 pack, as you only need to change out the rear pistons to #4's.
-Woody
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!
I now propose a new term:
WWRCWD
"What would RC Woody Do?"
Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
It's because of RC_Woody. Someone that took the time to read, learn and gets it. Without even knowing RC_Woody, I guarantee that when RC_Woody has a question, he first uses the search function and would never start a post with "I didn't want to read through x thousand pages, so let me ask you.."
Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!
I now propose a new term:
WWRCWD
"What would RC Woody Do?"
Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!
I now propose a new term:
WWRCWD
"What would RC Woody Do?"
Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
Huh huh, he said Woody, Heh, henh, henh, henh
"Whoa. Is this like the weather channel?"
"Yeah, eh heh heh, the forecast is partially cool."
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
I believe there is a different hole pre-drilled on the TLR chassis.
Do a search in this forum on Torque rod I believe there is some "tricks" for mounting that will help prevent the rod end from cracking.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (37)
Wher are you guys getting the Ti Ni shock shafts? I can't find them at Amain
I don't know if that because they are not out yet, or if they are just truly going that quickly. From what I remember reading on this forum they are not due out until April 20th or so.
4x4 naturally tend to nose dive..especially if you are used to driving 2wd and let off at the top of the jump. Do you have your battery in the furthest back position? do you have the Black front, Orange rear springs? Or at least firmer springs in the front that in the rear?
If you have stock...
Not saying it wont effect your steering handling because it will and that is another discussion..., so just for jumps... adjusting your springs and/or oil weight can have an effect,combined with thottle control. Anti squat could effect as well, but wont go into that. Its all about how you approach and release from the jump/bump.
The basic concept is you want your rear end to sag more or quicker than the front (causing the front to be higher) or you want a quicker rebound in the front.(quicker spring in the front will keep your nose up)
So depending your ride height, first thing I would do if I was on the track racing for a quick fix, is lower the rear end i.e. move the shock collars up so your springs are not as compressed.(alternatively screw the front the collars down a bit, for more compression in the front) This however is for a minor adjustment. It might be just enough though.
I haven't heard of anybody running lower than a 27mm ride height,(I wouldn't go any higher than a 29 ride height in the front) so I wouldn't lower your rear end much more than that using the spring collars.
if you have done all that already, on your throttle control, are you applying constant throttle over the jump? If so, then try giving a little extra blip of throttle right at the top(idea is to get your rear end to sag a little more)
If you are have time and can adjust your oil(thicker front or lower rear).
Stock is 30wt all around. Generally its more so with 2wd drive, but typically the front is a little heavier weight oil in the front than in the back. On a 4wd usually its more even, most don't go much different that 2.5wt difference from front to back.
So there are some ideas, give us a little more info and we might be able to help you out more.
Woody
If you have stock...
Not saying it wont effect your steering handling because it will and that is another discussion..., so just for jumps... adjusting your springs and/or oil weight can have an effect,combined with thottle control. Anti squat could effect as well, but wont go into that. Its all about how you approach and release from the jump/bump.
The basic concept is you want your rear end to sag more or quicker than the front (causing the front to be higher) or you want a quicker rebound in the front.(quicker spring in the front will keep your nose up)
So depending your ride height, first thing I would do if I was on the track racing for a quick fix, is lower the rear end i.e. move the shock collars up so your springs are not as compressed.(alternatively screw the front the collars down a bit, for more compression in the front) This however is for a minor adjustment. It might be just enough though.
I haven't heard of anybody running lower than a 27mm ride height,(I wouldn't go any higher than a 29 ride height in the front) so I wouldn't lower your rear end much more than that using the spring collars.
if you have done all that already, on your throttle control, are you applying constant throttle over the jump? If so, then try giving a little extra blip of throttle right at the top(idea is to get your rear end to sag a little more)
If you are have time and can adjust your oil(thicker front or lower rear).
Stock is 30wt all around. Generally its more so with 2wd drive, but typically the front is a little heavier weight oil in the front than in the back. On a 4wd usually its more even, most don't go much different that 2.5wt difference from front to back.
So there are some ideas, give us a little more info and we might be able to help you out more.
Woody
Tech Addict
iTrader: (37)
Thanks woody, also I'm looking at getting the ha servo saver tube and ha steering posts. Was wondering what size bearings are in the steering so I can replace those while I'm installing my new ha parts?
It's because of RC_Woody. Someone that took the time to read, learn and gets it. Without even knowing RC_Woody, I guarantee that when RC_Woody has a question, he first uses the search function and would never start a post with "I didn't want to read through x thousand pages, so let me ask you.."
Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!
I now propose a new term:
WWRCWD
"What would RC Woody Do?"
Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!
I now propose a new term:
WWRCWD
"What would RC Woody Do?"
Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
If I can regurgitate or even present my interpretation of the answer to the question and I think its fairly accurate based on shear volume of the same previous responses then I will
Don't mis-interpret my ability to read for experience lol.
-Woody
This is what I was working on w/ Avid. Some are metal/rubber or metal/metal depending on if they had an un-exposed side (IE: in a hub or something) or based on situation.
TEN SCTE ($22)
Wheel hubs
4x A6957 10x15x4 Rubber, Metal (Outer)
4x A6958 6x12x4 Rubber, Metal (Inner)
Gearbox
4x A6956 12x18x4 Rubber, Rubber (Front/Rear)
2x A6956 12x18x4 Rubber, Rubber (Mid)
4x A6947 5x11x4
Steering
4x A6907 5x8x2.5 Metal, Metal
TEN SCTE ($22)
Wheel hubs
4x A6957 10x15x4 Rubber, Metal (Outer)
4x A6958 6x12x4 Rubber, Metal (Inner)
Gearbox
4x A6956 12x18x4 Rubber, Rubber (Front/Rear)
2x A6956 12x18x4 Rubber, Rubber (Mid)
4x A6947 5x11x4
Steering
4x A6907 5x8x2.5 Metal, Metal
So this is from goehm a while back. - so I'm assuming 5x8x2.5 which sounds about right. If I remember right though my stock ones are sealed rubber. Not sure what "Metal, Metal" means.
-Woody
Tech Addict
iTrader: (37)
Thanks again I feel stupid now that you find it so easy find things using the search tool, it never seems to work for me.