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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-31-2012, 06:06 PM
  #31966  
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What do you guys think a brand new losi scte chassis is worth with a full nitro setup on it.. motor broken in and nearly no use.

Motor, pipe, clutch, bell, tank w/hoses, filter, center diff w/ brakes complete, nitro rx tray, losb0818 throttle servo, losb0819 steering servo (see pic all looks near new)

also going to sell a losi mtx pro radio maybe i'll post in sale forum shortly.

Swap on the front/rear clips and bingo nitro scte :P

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Old 03-31-2012, 06:31 PM
  #31967  
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I installed the TLR chassis and I have the TLR torque rod - where does that get installed?
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:35 PM
  #31968  
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
so the pistons come with numbers
smallest holes start at 1 and go up to 5(biggest holes)

in 1 single pack of LOSB2909 you get two of each number.
#1 x 2
#2 x 2
...
#5 x 2
So to answer your question if you need to buy 1 or two packs... answer is depends.

Box stock all 4 shocks have the #3 piston.

If you want the ability to have more than 2 shocks to have the same pistons(assuming you don't want #3 pistons) then yes you need 2 packs. Otherwise 1 pack should be good. Of course they are cheap and it never hurts to have backups. So I don't think buying 2 packs would break you either, however IMOP not needed.

If you are trying Lane's or Dunford setup then you only need 1 pack, as you only need to change out the rear pistons to #4's.

-Woody
Thanks Woody you have cleared that up for me.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:12 PM
  #31969  
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I should mention that I really like how the thread has become more civilized the past few days...no wars lol


Originally Posted by rc wannabe
Wanted to show off my ride!
Nice!! I've only airbrushed 2 bodies and there's still a lot to learn...Nice job!!
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:28 PM
  #31970  
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR
I should mention that I really like how the thread has become more civilized the past few days...no wars lol
It's because of RC_Woody. Someone that took the time to read, learn and gets it. Without even knowing RC_Woody, I guarantee that when RC_Woody has a question, he first uses the search function and would never start a post with "I didn't want to read through x thousand pages, so let me ask you.."

Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!

I now propose a new term:

WWRCWD

"What would RC Woody Do?"

Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:33 PM
  #31971  
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Originally Posted by goehm
It's because of RC_Woody. Someone that took the time to read, learn and gets it. Without even knowing RC_Woody, I guarantee that when RC_Woody has a question, he first uses the search function and would never start a post with "I didn't want to read through x thousand pages, so let me ask you.."

Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!

I now propose a new term:

WWRCWD

"What would RC Woody Do?"

Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?

Huh huh, he said Woody, Heh, henh, henh, henh

"Whoa. Is this like the weather channel?"
"Yeah, eh heh heh, the forecast is partially cool."
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:40 PM
  #31972  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Huh huh, he said Woody, Heh, henh, henh, henh

"Whoa. Is this like the weather channel?"
"Yeah, eh heh heh, the forecast is partially cool."
And I present to you, the other end of the spectrum. LOL!
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:41 PM
  #31973  
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Originally Posted by jasontraci
I installed the TLR chassis and I have the TLR torque rod - where does that get installed?
I'm still running a stock chassis so I can't post any pics or anything, but from what I understand and what I remember reading is that replaces the rear brace.
I believe there is a different hole pre-drilled on the TLR chassis.

Do a search in this forum on Torque rod I believe there is some "tricks" for mounting that will help prevent the rod end from cracking.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:52 PM
  #31974  
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Wher are you guys getting the Ti Ni shock shafts? I can't find them at Amain
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:56 PM
  #31975  
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin
Wher are you guys getting the Ti Ni shock shafts? I can't find them at Amain
Horizon I believe has them posted, just listed as out of stock, so you can back order them.

I don't know if that because they are not out yet, or if they are just truly going that quickly. From what I remember reading on this forum they are not due out until April 20th or so.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:02 PM
  #31976  
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
4x4 naturally tend to nose dive..especially if you are used to driving 2wd and let off at the top of the jump. Do you have your battery in the furthest back position? do you have the Black front, Orange rear springs? Or at least firmer springs in the front that in the rear?

If you have stock...

Not saying it wont effect your steering handling because it will and that is another discussion..., so just for jumps... adjusting your springs and/or oil weight can have an effect,combined with thottle control. Anti squat could effect as well, but wont go into that. Its all about how you approach and release from the jump/bump.

The basic concept is you want your rear end to sag more or quicker than the front (causing the front to be higher) or you want a quicker rebound in the front.(quicker spring in the front will keep your nose up)

So depending your ride height, first thing I would do if I was on the track racing for a quick fix, is lower the rear end i.e. move the shock collars up so your springs are not as compressed.(alternatively screw the front the collars down a bit, for more compression in the front) This however is for a minor adjustment. It might be just enough though.

I haven't heard of anybody running lower than a 27mm ride height,(I wouldn't go any higher than a 29 ride height in the front) so I wouldn't lower your rear end much more than that using the spring collars.

if you have done all that already, on your throttle control, are you applying constant throttle over the jump? If so, then try giving a little extra blip of throttle right at the top(idea is to get your rear end to sag a little more)

If you are have time and can adjust your oil(thicker front or lower rear).
Stock is 30wt all around. Generally its more so with 2wd drive, but typically the front is a little heavier weight oil in the front than in the back. On a 4wd usually its more even, most don't go much different that 2.5wt difference from front to back.

So there are some ideas, give us a little more info and we might be able to help you out more.

Woody
i put the king headz chassy on and it moves the center diff over to take some of the bind out of the front end. the last 2 trucks i ran with the stock chassy jumped nose low,with the kh chassy i didnt have to adjust the truck in the air thru a whole day of racing. today i tried a jconcepts body and the truck was jumping nose low - im going back to the stock losi body!
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:03 PM
  #31977  
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Thanks woody, also I'm looking at getting the ha servo saver tube and ha steering posts. Was wondering what size bearings are in the steering so I can replace those while I'm installing my new ha parts?
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:04 PM
  #31978  
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Originally Posted by goehm
It's because of RC_Woody. Someone that took the time to read, learn and gets it. Without even knowing RC_Woody, I guarantee that when RC_Woody has a question, he first uses the search function and would never start a post with "I didn't want to read through x thousand pages, so let me ask you.."

Everyone should strive to be like him. Good job; RC_Woody for president!

I now propose a new term:

WWRCWD

"What would RC Woody Do?"

Before you do something of question, ask yourself... WWRCWD?
ha ha ha, I hope me answering some of these questions someone doesn't take me as an expert. I just like to learn everything I can about something. Its kinda like my OCD... I think that is why I like this hobby so much, cause there is alot of little tips, tricks, setups and tuning to learn about.

If I can regurgitate or even present my interpretation of the answer to the question and I think its fairly accurate based on shear volume of the same previous responses then I will

Don't mis-interpret my ability to read for experience lol.

-Woody
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:13 PM
  #31979  
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin
Thanks woody, also I'm looking at getting the ha servo saver tube and ha steering posts. Was wondering what size bearings are in the steering so I can replace those while I'm installing my new ha parts?

Originally Posted by goehm
This is what I was working on w/ Avid. Some are metal/rubber or metal/metal depending on if they had an un-exposed side (IE: in a hub or something) or based on situation.

TEN SCTE ($22)

Wheel hubs
4x A6957 10x15x4 Rubber, Metal (Outer)
4x A6958 6x12x4 Rubber, Metal (Inner)

Gearbox
4x A6956 12x18x4 Rubber, Rubber (Front/Rear)
2x A6956 12x18x4 Rubber, Rubber (Mid)
4x A6947 5x11x4

Steering
4x A6907 5x8x2.5 Metal, Metal

So this is from goehm a while back. - so I'm assuming 5x8x2.5 which sounds about right. If I remember right though my stock ones are sealed rubber. Not sure what "Metal, Metal" means.

-Woody
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:18 PM
  #31980  
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Thanks again I feel stupid now that you find it so easy find things using the search tool, it never seems to work for me.
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