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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-18-2011, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad
Uh, I will take that old TLR chassis in the background there, you know, if you're all done with it.
Um...
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:49 AM
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Are there any plans to bring out a version of this truck with all of the hop up parts?? i.e. tuning kit, flex chassis, etc.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rraden
Are there any plans to bring out a version of this truck with all of the hop up parts?? i.e. tuning kit, flex chassis, etc.
Already answered , Nope !
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:02 AM
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Well I offed my Ofna and ordered a TEN-SCTE yesterday. Looks like I have a lot of reading to do...again!

I'm going to be putting a Novak Havoc Pro/Ballistic 4.5 combo in it and it seems that a 15-16t is a good starting point? Just wanted to confirm.

Also, I thought I had read a while back that the "newer" versions of the trucks are coming with the hardened pins. Is that accurate?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:02 AM
  #24470  
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Originally Posted by scoobie1
They feel rock solid on the bench.

Not sure if this is what your after, but I did get a pic of the kickup plate/chassis joint
Thanks Sccobie1, that's what I wanted to see. I thought it might have more flex but if it's solid with the front brace, great!
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by teknic
Well I offed my Ofna and ordered a TEN-SCTE yesterday. Looks like I have a lot of reading to do...again!

I'm going to be putting a Novak Havoc Pro/Ballistic 4.5 combo in it and it seems that a 15-16t is a good starting point? Just wanted to confirm.

Also, I thought I had read a while back that the "newer" versions of the trucks are coming with the hardened pins. Is that accurate?

Thanks in advance!
more like 13 or 14.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad
more like 13 or 14.
Ahh, thanks.

I was going off the fact that the Novak combo came with the 16t, but now that I think about it that's the High Torque version of my motor.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by teknic
Ahh, thanks.

I was going off the fact that the Novak combo came with the 16t, but now that I think about it that's the High Torque version of my motor.
I think the 16 will be a good starting point with the HT version. Try it and figure out what works for your track. I'm running a 12 tooth now on my small carpet track with the HT motor but ran a 15 on dirt this summer with the HV version.

If your buying new you may want to consider the Tekin 4 pole/RX8 system vs the Novak 550/SC system. Several guys at my local dirt track run these and they are a bit faster then mine & I hear heat is less of an issue? Though for the money I'm not sure its worth the cost difference?
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by D.a.v.e
I think the 16 will be a good starting point with the HT version. Try it and figure out what works for your track. I'm running a 12 tooth now on my small carpet track with the HT motor but ran a 15 on dirt this summer with the HV version.

If your buying new you may want to consider the Tekin 4 pole/RX8 system vs the Novak 550/SC system. Several guys at my local dirt track run these and they are a bit faster then mine & I hear heat is less of an issue? Though for the money I'm not sure its worth the cost difference?
Yeah, I have the non HT version so I'll probably try out the 13T-14T which is the same as I was running in my Ofna so that works out as I won't need to buy anymore pinions right off the bat.

I actually already have the Novak setup so that's why I'm going with it. I would LOVE to pickup that new Tekin setup, but I'm only a casual club racer and it's not worth the extra money to me right now.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by D.a.v.e
I somehow lost the bushing in the front steering link. Would anyone know a part number or something equivalent I might be able to use here.

Looking up the part number LOSB2279 comes with a bunch of stuff I really don't need and seems to be back ordered?
Nitrohouse has them in stock
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
Anyone have any tips for getting to the servo saver to tighten it? Looks like the whole steering assembly needs to be removed to get to it. Should have done this last time I had it torn down. Well at least I need to tear down the front to change the diff fluid anyway...
Take the screw out of the steering link from the servo, grab the adjusting nut for the servo saver with needle nose and move the front wheel to tighten the nut. Just takes a minute.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:08 AM
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I guess no one has thought of cutting the sidewall ofnthe tire and removing the insert before you bake/boil/acetone the rims?
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
I guess no one has thought of cutting the sidewall ofnthe tire and removing the insert before you bake/boil/acetone the rims?
what if the point is to re-use the tire? I guess you didn't think of that.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad
what if the point is to re-use the tire? I guess you didn't think of that.
I thought the debate was how to save the insert and reuse the rim. Never wanted to reuse a tire.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
I guess no one has thought of cutting the sidewall ofnthe tire and removing the insert before you bake/boil/acetone the rims?
Originally Posted by rcgod
I thought the debate was how to save the insert and reuse the rim. Never wanted to reuse a tire.
That may be the case for some, in my case I got a set of new Gridirons from a friend but they were on slasher rims. I have an scte so those rims wouldnt work. So i baked them off, if i was more patient i should have acetoned them off because baking them off cost me a set of foams. Acetone is the only way to save everything if you have closed cell foams. If you have regular foams baking works fast and free.
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