NITROALM

Thanks guys for the nice words
SCT Josh is the Ohio state Champ ..Josh if you have one of your
Vids please post, it shows how nice your truck runs out there
Thanks again to all of you Guys for posting your builds, and your on Track
performances. As mentioned ,We do only use MILSPEC 7075 T6 Billet
for our chassis,and they are completely made (CNC) here in the USA.
On U.S. Equipment.Hope all of you guys Have a very Merry Christmas.

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

Merry Christmas to you guys down South there too Hopefully your weather is a little nicer than ours, lol

10sctrel0v3r

iTrader: (1)

the weather in fl is wonderful..70's all week .

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

LOL...we just got back from a 10 day Disney World trip last weekend....I loved the weather down there

It was even nice on the whole way home till we hit Ohio...then 35 degrees and rain, lmao. Was a real nice welcome home present, HAHAHA. Will be about 15 degrees when I go climb a tree here in about 3 hours with the bow

I don't know how you guys drive down there though! I never seen roads so flat, and straight, and boring, lol. It was hard to keep under 90mph, lol. If my mud terrains weren't wailing like a beat on dog, I'd prolly fallen asleep.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

That's pretty funny. Yeah, with the aluminum ones you guys make, they're milled out to fit the inserts flush, but with the SNR ones, they're not, so sometimes the hingepins need to be shortened slightly since the inserts are then sitting slightly closer together. I'm running both acutally lol But I didn't need to shorten them, however I think a few people had to. I'd hate to see someone shorten them and then they fall out because they didn't need to be shortened.



Ridley, you'll take pot shots at SNR every chance you get wont you I've been running the SNR chassis since March and it worked great! The mudguards are an easy fix by heating them up and bending them upwards. Noodle? Definitely not. I only run indoor high traction tracks, so I can't honestly say how it performs outdoors, but indoors it's hooked up! That all being said, my truck is down this weekend for a complete overhaul and I'm putting the BCE chassis on just to give it a shot and try something different.

Wow, really? Blanket statement there. I have had the truck since the first week of it's introduction and I run twice a week almost EVERY week. I'm on my second front bumper (ironically broke it last week, oops LAWN DARTED) and my 2nd rear bumper (first one was the first generation non-updated bumper). The stock bumpers are pretty solid. Perfect, no, but then again, I broke an RPM bumper on my Slash 4x4 too, so I'd say none are perfect. Ask the SC10 or Hyper 10 owners about bumpers

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

Just an honest assessment. I'm not sure what thickness the one I messed with was, but it was WAYYY more flexible than even the stocker. I don't think he'll even be able to keep driveshafts in it when it starts taking big hits outdoors. Are you saying it's not, cause i'll video up that sucker and it will be all over youtube I GUARANTEE I can pop the driveshafts out just flexing it by hand! Like I said, I wouldn't run it, I would have sent it back for a refund. As for the "pot" shots I took on their shock towers, well, you saw the pics and the posts of guys getting messed up ones, they speak for themselves. Their hingepin holders? Come on now, I was making the Ti hingepins for Chris to fix SNR's "oversight", so I know how many people got the shaft on that deal before they realized the obvious, lol. Buyers Beware IMHO. Anyone trying to recommend their stuff must be getting it for free, or be friends with the guy or have very low expectations or something....because it's DIY quality....at best.

I've also got to handle a few Matrix Chassis for the 8ights, and the two are not in the same light year quality wise. The Matrix chassis are far more professionally made, much stiffer, and works of art really. It's what I would expect for my 140$. I think they would do real well to make an SCTE chassis so there is a quality carbon option.

But hey, I do agree with you about the bumpers !! The front one is just fine, and if guys are running anything but the lowest stub portion on the rear, I think they are missing the boat! I've never been real impressed with RPM parts either

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

This maybe a stupid question, but why doesn't the BCE chassis have the droop screw holes drilled out? I come from the larger 8ight family of vehicles and would want the droop holes. I would not want to buy it and drill my own in it.

FLHX1550

iTrader: (11)

Held the truck in my hand myself, Dakotah ran the "out of the box" TLR Option Chassis at the Nats, still has the chassis on the truck now. Only thing special about the truck that was "trick" at the time was the use of the link style rear chassis brace vs. the stock rigid brace.

7075 vs. 6061 are two different engineered alum with 6061 originally being developed for the aircraft industry as a "structural" Alum that was significantly stiffer vs 2000 series alum and can be heat treated for even more stiffness and strength. Primary use in the aircraft industry as structural / frame material, with 2000 series still as the choice for aircraft skin.

7075 was the next evolution, used in roughly the same applications in the aircraft industry as it has properties that allow it to be even more stiff and more heat treatable, roughly 10% more tensile strength vs. 6061.

But not everything is perfect. 7075 is not a choice material for bending or forming, as it's stiffer properties lend it to crack more than 6061. In some manufacturing process and some designs, 6061 can be a better choice.

The tendency in the manufacturing world is that if a component needs to be stamped vs machined, 6061 tends to be chosen as the "grain structure" is maintained thru bending, and will net a more rigid component than machining from solid 6061 or 7075.

IMO, the design of a "chassis" would benefit from 6061 as the chassis would be more rigid laterally, yet still have more "torsional" flex than the same chassis made of 7075.

As far as the "T6" designation, that refers to the heat treat process that the mill used in the manufacturing of the Alum billet.

All aluminum needs to be "aged" to build a resistance to corrosion as it comes from the mill, and the "T" designation just referrers to what tempering method was used by the mill. T4 means the mill tempered the material via a oven / heat treat method and "naturally" aged, where "T6" uses the same oven / heat treat tempering, and artificially aged. T6 is a preferred method, but with nothing to do with properties, it is just faster than the T4 method. The material in the end is almost identical properties. IMO T9 would be ideal for a chassis, but not easily found and typically a custom mill run would need to be order to achieve it.

Just because the numbers are "higher" (ie 6061 vs 7075 or T4 vs T6), it doesn't necessarily net a better material.

sir miles

iTrader: (23)

Does anybody here uses a Tenshock 401 3500kv motor? any input? TIA!

NITROALM

Hey Guys all great Questions I will re post this and It explains a bit
about the Process. >>>

Hi Guys I have been asked many times why we do what we do with the
Chassis So I wanted to post this to explain some of the process
of our Custom Chassis vs Oem stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB
What's the difference between the BCE chassis, and the the Factory chassis?

Hi VBB We use 7075 T6 Billet, that is fully CNC Machined.
Where the Oem company's use Alclad, and they are stamped out
by the thousands, The Kits need to produce many chassis at a time
where we only produce small batches, The big difference that we get from the
racers is, the longevity(Chassis Life) vs stock, and the fact they will hold the tune of the
set up much longer Ie;tweak, bending etc. and usually we come in lighter
than most of the stock chassis.just due to our extensive lighting programs.
Hope this Helps..
Here are some Run Chassis
Droop pads Losi (BCE)

Dylan Rodriguez Expert Gas Nats

Pataya worlds

cavg

I have tried it with 2s and compared to the 1410 it's smoother, but feels alot a good bit slower and less punchy.

chucko

iTrader: (3)

on any chassis BCE, STOCK, CF, losi, who ever .....what would be the difference between the long and short rear chassis brace and how does it affect the handling of the truck ?? Thanks in advance

cavg

long brace = stiffer
short brace = more flex


stiffer can get you more traction on high-bite, smooth tracks
more flex can be better on rough tracks


So it depends on what kind of track you are running on.

lowroad

iTrader: (79)

Do you (or anyone else for that matter) have any tricks for getting the stock plastic collars off? My kingheadz parts are here, But those damn stock plastic pieces are on there but good! I'm about to get out the dremel.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Loctite has wicked in between the sleeve and the pinion output. it'll be a pain but should come off with some prying/tapping.