9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-26-2011, 09:11 AM
I posted some pics of my SCTE a few days ago with the FloTek body I'd painted for my SC10 4x4 before "upgrading" to the Losi. ...since then, I've decided to paint the stock body as my race shell.
Something I really like about Short Course is the scale look. ...and while I race, I'm not a serious racer, so I don't care if I have *the* best setup in the world, as long as I'm competitive. With that in mind, I don't like carving out giant holes in the body as it ruins the "scale" look.
So, here's the flag area of the stock body painted, and using the small flags (vs. the larger ones; the kit comes with both).
It's not a ton of airflow, but it will definitely help vent some of the air, and from near the tallest point in the body. The racer types could obviously add this to the holes they will surely cut out where the fan decals go, etc., and it will work with both sets of flags.
Something I really like about Short Course is the scale look. ...and while I race, I'm not a serious racer, so I don't care if I have *the* best setup in the world, as long as I'm competitive. With that in mind, I don't like carving out giant holes in the body as it ruins the "scale" look.
So, here's the flag area of the stock body painted, and using the small flags (vs. the larger ones; the kit comes with both).
It's not a ton of airflow, but it will definitely help vent some of the air, and from near the tallest point in the body. The racer types could obviously add this to the holes they will surely cut out where the fan decals go, etc., and it will work with both sets of flags.
08-26-2011, 10:07 AM
Have a couple of questions as im rebuilding my diffs .... I',m working on the center diff and when i leave it sit it seems to leak very slowly ( like a drop or two after sitting all night) is that normal overflow dripping or am i leaking.
I have sanded the cup side to remove any flashing or rough spots and screqwed it in as i would have done with my 8ight 2.0.
also whats the part number to the shock caps with bleeder holes? im thinking about trying the emultion style socks.
anyone else have any feedback on the 2 stage pistions?
I have sanded the cup side to remove any flashing or rough spots and screqwed it in as i would have done with my 8ight 2.0.
also whats the part number to the shock caps with bleeder holes? im thinking about trying the emultion style socks.
anyone else have any feedback on the 2 stage pistions?
08-26-2011, 10:28 AM
I think if the scoop was a reverse, like on the FloTek, I would Dremel that out. ...well, maybe not; my SCTE is really nose heavy as is, maybe I want the front to have a little parachute action! lol On that note, I'm actually thinking about getting the carbon fiber front tower and the heavy aluminum rear just to help shift weight bias more to the back.
Anyone else done anything to balance the chassis a bit (besides sticking in lead wheel weights?
08-26-2011, 10:30 AM
08-26-2011, 10:34 AM
I haven't decided yet, and I haven't even run this body yet. To me those holes, as well as the scoop in the front are more for letting air into the body (for cooling) and I don't' really need more cooling. ...I'm trying to evacuate air, not let more in!
I think if the scoop was a reverse, like on the FloTek, I would Dremel that out. ...well, maybe not; my SCTE is really nose heavy as is, maybe I want the front to have a little parachute action! lol On that note, I'm actually thinking about getting the carbon fiber front tower and the heavy aluminum rear just to help shift weight bias more to the back.
Anyone else done anything to balance the chassis a bit (besides sticking in lead wheel weights?
I think if the scoop was a reverse, like on the FloTek, I would Dremel that out. ...well, maybe not; my SCTE is really nose heavy as is, maybe I want the front to have a little parachute action! lol On that note, I'm actually thinking about getting the carbon fiber front tower and the heavy aluminum rear just to help shift weight bias more to the back.
Anyone else done anything to balance the chassis a bit (besides sticking in lead wheel weights?
08-26-2011, 10:36 AM
I haven't decided yet, and I haven't even run this body yet. To me those holes, as well as the scoop in the front are more for letting air into the body (for cooling) and I don't' really need more cooling. ...I'm trying to evacuate air, not let more in!
I think if the scoop was a reverse, like on the FloTek, I would Dremel that out. ...well, maybe not; my SCTE is really nose heavy as is, maybe I want the front to have a little parachute action! lol On that note, I'm actually thinking about getting the carbon fiber front tower and the heavy aluminum rear just to help shift weight bias more to the back.
Anyone else done anything to balance the chassis a bit (besides sticking in lead wheel weights?
I think if the scoop was a reverse, like on the FloTek, I would Dremel that out. ...well, maybe not; my SCTE is really nose heavy as is, maybe I want the front to have a little parachute action! lol On that note, I'm actually thinking about getting the carbon fiber front tower and the heavy aluminum rear just to help shift weight bias more to the back.
Anyone else done anything to balance the chassis a bit (besides sticking in lead wheel weights?
08-26-2011, 10:46 AM
Have a couple of questions as im rebuilding my diffs .... I',m working on the center diff and when i leave it sit it seems to leak very slowly ( like a drop or two after sitting all night) is that normal overflow dripping or am i leaking.
I have sanded the cup side to remove any flashing or rough spots and screqwed it in as i would have done with my 8ight 2.0.
also whats the part number to the shock caps with bleeder holes? im thinking about trying the emultion style socks.
anyone else have any feedback on the 2 stage pistions?
I have sanded the cup side to remove any flashing or rough spots and screqwed it in as i would have done with my 8ight 2.0.
also whats the part number to the shock caps with bleeder holes? im thinking about trying the emultion style socks.
anyone else have any feedback on the 2 stage pistions?
Some are finding gluing in the metal inserts are helping to reduce leaking. I also use a little grease on the gasket and this seems to help a little as well.Shock caps with bleeder holes are these. It was a running change so there still some out there that might not have the holes.
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB2846
08-26-2011, 11:24 AM
new gears
i was wondering when the new diff gears would be out.
08-26-2011, 11:59 AM
08-26-2011, 12:06 PM
8ight shock pistons
I run 8 BBs on my scte an was wondering what pistons people like to run f/r? The shocks I bought came with weird hand drilled pistons that make it hard to tune oil.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by annonymous; 08-26-2011 at 12:29 PM.
08-26-2011, 12:17 PM
08-26-2011, 12:29 PM
08-26-2011, 12:50 PM
08-26-2011, 12:53 PM
Snaped my 1410 shaft. 
geared it up to 18t, 3s yes I meshed it correctly. Good news is the temps stayed below 160 in 100 degree weather.
I may upgrade to the 5mm shaft since this motor is still good.
Was doing speed runs, got up to 49 mph
geared it up to 18t, 3s yes I meshed it correctly. Good news is the temps stayed below 160 in 100 degree weather.
I may upgrade to the 5mm shaft since this motor is still good.
Was doing speed runs, got up to 49 mph
08-26-2011, 01:05 PM
