1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
02-08-2012, 10:02 PM
I did that to mine but still have the binding issue. Also, when you grind the nub off, the hex rides really close to the hub and it rubs on the outer part of the bearing that is not spinning. Not good. The problem, at least on mine, is the slot that is milled for the pin is too deep by at least 1mm, maybe 1.5mm. The pin never bottoms out in the hex, even with the hex pushed all the way to the bearing, causing binding.
As I've stated before, I try to adjust and clamp down the hexes as much as I can before each round, but if you take one tumble, you are bound back up.
It would be cool to hear from some team guys about this.
As I've stated before, I try to adjust and clamp down the hexes as much as I can before each round, but if you take one tumble, you are bound back up.
It would be cool to hear from some team guys about this.
I don't see how that is possible (unless can provide a pic that we can help you with) Are you using the TLR2973 round bearing spacer/divider (not the crush tube), but the round spacer divider like a "washer with a lip on it" that divides the hub carrier from the hex piece (the round washer piece that goes in between those) and this would prevent/separate the hex from touching either the hub/or bearing even at all the way you describe regardless.
Also I am certain there is no need for the pin to seat fully in the hex if there is more recess milled out than necessary. Trying to understand so we all can help you, and others with similar issues that you describe. Thanks.
02-09-2012, 12:17 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I'm trying to picture what you are saying, but you are describing the hex piece as touching/close to touching the bearing in the hub, or even the hex piece itself close to touching the hub/touching the bearing? (correct me if I am wrong)
I don't see how that is possible (unless can provide a pic that we can help you with) Are you using the TLR2973 round bearing spacer/divider (not the crush tube), but the round spacer divider like a "washer with a lip on it" that divides the hub carrier from the hex piece (the round washer piece that goes in between those) and this would prevent/separate the hex from touching either the hub/or bearing even at all the way you describe regardless.
Also I am certain there is no need for the pin to seat fully in the hex if there is more recess milled out than necessary. Trying to understand so we all can help you, and others with similar issues that you describe. Thanks.
I don't see how that is possible (unless can provide a pic that we can help you with) Are you using the TLR2973 round bearing spacer/divider (not the crush tube), but the round spacer divider like a "washer with a lip on it" that divides the hub carrier from the hex piece (the round washer piece that goes in between those) and this would prevent/separate the hex from touching either the hub/or bearing even at all the way you describe regardless.
Also I am certain there is no need for the pin to seat fully in the hex if there is more recess milled out than necessary. Trying to understand so we all can help you, and others with similar issues that you describe. Thanks.
02-09-2012, 01:13 AM
I didn't realize he was using the aluminum hex (over the stock plastic hex). Yes, you're correct in that case, as no washer is used in that case.
My best guess is that people are experiencing hub failure because the optional aluminum hexes are being “seated” too close to the hub/ball bearing causing those problems. Easily done if you push the aluminum hex (with the extra deep recessed pin part as described) up against tight & flush against the hub w/ potential bind being created as drive shaft moves/wobbles slightly repeatedly, as car wears on after several runs, with ball bearings/hubs deflecting side loads throughout bumps/corners.
This creates the need for to check the alignment, re-align and re-tighten the aluminum hexes according, each run. Unfournately this is hard on hub/ball bearings that are prone to go easy if not checked and caught in time. I can see how that is happening, and is what I came up with for now when using aluminum hex pieces on the 22.
My best guess is that people are experiencing hub failure because the optional aluminum hexes are being “seated” too close to the hub/ball bearing causing those problems. Easily done if you push the aluminum hex (with the extra deep recessed pin part as described) up against tight & flush against the hub w/ potential bind being created as drive shaft moves/wobbles slightly repeatedly, as car wears on after several runs, with ball bearings/hubs deflecting side loads throughout bumps/corners.
This creates the need for to check the alignment, re-align and re-tighten the aluminum hexes according, each run. Unfournately this is hard on hub/ball bearings that are prone to go easy if not checked and caught in time. I can see how that is happening, and is what I came up with for now when using aluminum hex pieces on the 22.
02-09-2012, 02:25 AM
Tech Adept
Add a thin shim between the bearings. The spacer isn't wide enough allowing binding on the bearings when you clamp down your wheel.
02-09-2012, 10:30 AM
I often wonder why some cars have repeated issues and some never have issues at all. Hmm...
02-09-2012, 10:42 AM
Also, anyone have an alternative to the set screw for the hex? Mine comes loose, and I fear to crank them tight that they will become a permenant fixture. I think my hexes coming loose is the culprit. This then causes some wobble, then the inner bearing takes the brunt, then they prematurley wear/disinigrate. Dunno....thinking of going back to stock plastic.
02-09-2012, 10:51 AM
The stock spacer is wide enough, unless you wrench down on it really hard and "crush" it a little. When installing bearings, always put the outer bearing in first and make sure it is all the way in. Then insert the bearing spacer, then the inner bearing. When you push the inner bearing in all the way, the outer bearing should pop out just a tiny bit. If it does not, add 1 small shim between the bearings and repeat.
02-09-2012, 11:11 AM
Does part TLR2973 only come with ONE round spacer/washer? So this piece goes in between the outter bearing and pin? Maybe that's why I am having trouble, mine doesn't even have this. But, are these thrown out when using the aluminum .75 hex?
edit: I never built my car. So I found out that the aluminum hex does NOT use the stock washer in between the outter bearing and hex pin
edit: I never built my car. So I found out that the aluminum hex does NOT use the stock washer in between the outter bearing and hex pin
Last edited by markhat250; 02-09-2012 at 11:56 AM.
02-09-2012, 11:17 AM
I may have to try this. I have aluminum hubs/.75 hex and having issues. The outter bearing is fine, going through inners like crazy.
Also, anyone have an alternative to the set screw for the hex? Mine comes loose, and I fear to crank them tight that they will become a permenant fixture. I think my hexes coming loose is the culprit. This then causes some wobble, then the inner bearing takes the brunt, then they prematurley wear/disinigrate. Dunno....thinking of going back to stock plastic.
Also, anyone have an alternative to the set screw for the hex? Mine comes loose, and I fear to crank them tight that they will become a permenant fixture. I think my hexes coming loose is the culprit. This then causes some wobble, then the inner bearing takes the brunt, then they prematurley wear/disinigrate. Dunno....thinking of going back to stock plastic.
02-09-2012, 11:59 AM
Update: I found out that my car didn't even have a stock crush tube in the center. I bought this car slightly used, and previous owner used an old bearing innard to apperantly replace his lost stock crush tube. So....I am off to buy the right part, plus use Trevor's suggestion about the inner washer/shims to get a snug fit. Hopefully this cures me. Loving this car btw!!!!!!
02-09-2012, 12:34 PM
So I broke my right spindle today, I hear a lot of people break these. Should I get aluminum spindles for strength or just get the plastic? Anyone have the aluminum ones, is it worth the upgrade?
Thanks
Thanks
02-09-2012, 01:13 PM
I would'nt do it. I put some on mine and broke a king pin and an arm in the same night. Never broke anything untill then. Im pretty sure the aluminum being stronger puts more stress on other parts causing them to break much easier. This is just my experience.
02-09-2012, 01:18 PM
I like the aluminum spindles but have not broken a plastic one just got tired of my ball studs loosening up in the plastic. Now i can just put a dabb of loctite and i know its gonna stay put.
02-09-2012, 01:30 PM
You are a better driver than me then. One thing I did do is change the vertical king pins to the threaded version that runs all the way through top to bottom in stead of the stock ones. Hav'nt broken anything in months and i've had some nasty hits.
02-09-2012, 01:35 PM
Ballcups
Anyone know if there are any aftermarket ballcups which fit the TLR turnbuckles? The Lunsford super duty ball cups are too large diameter.
TLR ball cups are fine, but was looking for some options.
TLR ball cups are fine, but was looking for some options.