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Old 05-02-2011, 09:39 AM
  #6181  
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Originally Posted by tfrahm
Hmmm -- in the Rear Motor configuration, the rear of the battery tray is blocked by the "web" in the battery tray/bulkhead... No access to the anti-squat shims, etc... Are people cutting out the bottom of this web or what?

From looking at my chassis, the ONLY way to change anti-squat on an unmodified rear motor car is to virtually disassemble the entire rear half of the car... BUMMER!

Any help or advice is appreciated, as I need to change mine. (the kit 1 degree has me seeking more forward bite, so I want to change to the Evan's setup 2.5 degrees...

Thanks in advance.
Tfrahm- post a pic of your car. I'm running rear motor and I have no "web" that blocks me from seeing the hingepin brace...
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mamc24
Hey Dax I have a savox 1257tg servo in my22 it goes lock to lock no problem. I had to turn the epa down!
You run the 4pk also? My linkage is free and not hitting anything Just acts like I need a taller horn
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:54 AM
  #6183  
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Originally Posted by tfrahm
Hmmm -- in the Rear Motor configuration, the rear of the battery tray is blocked by the "web" in the battery tray/bulkhead... No access to the anti-squat shims, etc... Are people cutting out the bottom of this web or what?

From looking at my chassis, the ONLY way to change anti-squat on an unmodified rear motor car is to virtually disassemble the entire rear half of the car... BUMMER!

Any help or advice is appreciated, as I need to change mine. (the kit 1 degree has me seeking more forward bite, so I want to change to the Evan's setup 2.5 degrees...

Thanks in advance.
yeah, you've built something incorrectly. Loosing a couple bottom chassis screws, and the front hingepin braces raises up, and the antisquat shim falls right out...
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:56 AM
  #6184  
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Originally Posted by dmatter
You run the 4pk also? My linkage is free and not hitting anything Just acts like I need a taller horn
Dmatter- just to be sure, try rebinding to a completely different model # on your 4PK. Something like model 10- one you've never used... Make sure all the settings are zeroed out and EPA is 120 on steering.

FWIW- you can't use a longer horn on the 22 unless you hack the bulkhead up pretty bad, so abandon that idea and figure out what's wrong with it.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:09 AM
  #6185  
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Originally Posted by dmatter
You run the 4pk also? My linkage is free and not hitting anything Just acts like I need a taller horn
No I have the ko eurus EPA on the ko is 150% vs120 for the 4pk sorry didn't think of that
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:17 AM
  #6186  
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Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Dmatter- just to be sure, try rebinding to a completely different model # on your 4PK. Something like model 10- one you've never used... Make sure all the settings are zeroed out and EPA is 120 on steering.

FWIW- you can't use a longer horn on the 22 unless you hack the bulkhead up pretty bad, so abandon that idea and figure out what's wrong with it.
I noticed that also, looks like a taller horn is out....
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:19 AM
  #6187  
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Originally Posted by mamc24
No I have the ko eurus EPA on the ko is 150% vs120 for the 4pk sorry didn't think of that
Airtronics guys have no trouble either.........wtf
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:25 AM
  #6188  
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Originally Posted by Eli
Because it doesnt need to be pushed to go fast
i agree with that.. here is the problem thought sometimes you need to be able to push it in racing scenarios and if you cant push it then what good is the car in actual racing conditions?

and to answer your other question i was running emulsion shocks from the get go (no bladder)
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:29 AM
  #6189  
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Originally Posted by tfrahm
Hmmm -- in the Rear Motor configuration, the rear of the battery tray is blocked by the "web" in the battery tray/bulkhead... No access to the anti-squat shims, etc... Are people cutting out the bottom of this web or what?

From looking at my chassis, the ONLY way to change anti-squat on an unmodified rear motor car is to virtually disassemble the entire rear half of the car... BUMMER!

Any help or advice is appreciated, as I need to change mine. (the kit 1 degree has me seeking more forward bite, so I want to change to the Evan's setup 2.5 degrees...

Thanks in advance.
All you should need to do is loosen the two screws that hold the front rear pivot support in and the shim should come out the battery side. I did this a couple times the last time I was at the track playing with antisquat. It is not hard to do at all and should just involve the two screws. The shim should slide on the screws from the front of the car so you can do this though. If you slide the shim on from the rear of the car the tranny is in the way and you have to take everything apart.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:30 AM
  #6190  
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Originally Posted by dmatter
I cant get enough servo throw to get lock to lock. I run a 4pk with epa at 120% and DR is at 100% Buggy needs more throw. I trimmed 2mm off one of my ball cups for the steering link not much help at all. Seems like I need a sevo horn about 1/4 inch taller helllllllllllllp.
Sounds to me you made the link to short then shortened more. Try the length the manual states again, I set it per the manual and had to turn down epa left and right. I'm using a Spectrum radio though.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:02 PM
  #6191  
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You really won't be able to put a "taller" or "longer" servo horn in as it will hit the top bulk head.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by itsjusme
Sounds to me you made the link to short then shortened more. Try the length the manual states again, I set it per the manual and had to turn down epa left and right. I'm using a Spectrum radio though.
Nope tried manual length then I cut 2mm off one of the ball cups I will cut 2mm off the other one and move the horn over 1 click. If that dont work I am getting an Airhog.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:40 PM
  #6193  
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wow you guys are crazy...
if u push something with a pencil it is short so it can only be pushed the length of your arm plus pencil length. if you push it with a bat it will go ur arm length plus the bat length. (saying that you do not shove it and let it remain touching the bat or pencil... like the horn is connected to the steering)


Yes I realize it wont be at 90 degrees. I realize that the servo will only go a certain degree. but the added length and the alingment will give the needed extra bit of wheels throw he needs.

he shortened it and has enough to one side but not the other... lengthening it will give the needed throw to that side that is needed. I have a 3pk now and my epa is at 95 and 90 forget which side is which and dr is anywhere between 85 and 100 depending on the tires.

By shortening it you gave it not enough throw. by shortening it again you will get even less... seriously just try it longer... youre willing to take more off, why not add some length to it?
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:26 PM
  #6194  
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Originally Posted by tripthreat
You really won't be able to put a "taller" or "longer" servo horn in as it will hit the top bulk head.
will this one fit http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Servo-Arm-FUT or do i need to order the 22 specific ones?
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:41 PM
  #6195  
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Originally Posted by dmatter
I have had the servo out of this car many many times for different shimming and link lengths. My car has very equal throw both directions just not enough for my liking. I am an Associated guy I like steering
Ostachdude, read this quote.

He already has equal throw both directions, just not enough.

He does not need more throw in one direction only, otherwise what you have described, changing the length of the link would work.

Dmatter, make absolutely sure you have the rack centered, servo centered with the radio at 0 on all trims not just subtrim and get that servo horn on at or as close as possible to 90* then make sure the link fits on exactly without moving either the servo or the rack.
I'm pretty sure you already did all of this and if you did then you are at the mercy of the radio's maximum travel adjusment allowed and if it's 120% and it still is not enough then you are hosed without being able to fit a longer servo horn on but that really shouldn't be necessary.

Dyno Dan did state however that this car's steering setup will use most if not all of your radio's travel, those wheels turn pretty friggin far.
My radio uses more than 120%, DX3R.
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