John Q

iTrader: (5)

I was wondering if anyone was having any issue's getting full steering throw with there 22? I have messed around with it for almost 3 days now am i missing something? Right now I'm maxed 120 to the left but need a little more throw to the left. I'm at 78 on the radio to the right and its fine. I'm using the stock losi servo horn. Any thoughts ?

jketron

iTrader: (11)

I want to get another motor to go with a new RS Pro I bought, are the Redline motors good? What brand is the best (I know thats up for debate but I like to hear the various opinions)

Stay with the same brand as ESC for any poss compatibility issues or?

PanicRev

iTrader: (10)

Don't wanna be Capt. Obvious here but it sounds like the servo wasn't centered when you installed the horn. Take the horn off, center the servo and then put the horn back on centered.

There should never be that much side to side difference in endpoints. Mine are within a few clicks of each other and have no problem reaching maximun throw.

John Q

iTrader: (5)

I checked all of that when i built the car. I did everything per the instructions. Its driving me crazy..

Dave H

Move the starting servo horn position towards the center of the car, shorten the rack to servo link as required for centering.

Since the servo arm is higher than the rack, steering flattens the link and generates some right steering in both directions.

nascarracer

iTrader: (1)

Also you can shorten or lengthen the linkage from the horn to the rack

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Yeah, you are opening the "Chevy vs. Ford" debate there.. Tekins are good, I like my Epic's, but they will all do the job, some brands do better at different motor turns though..

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Just got my shorty pack to try out. Just looking here. Any suggestion where to start in terms of mounting? All the way back or full forward, maybe add a tad weight to either.

Suggestions appreciated.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Most run the pack either with the battery mount in the rear position with the battey all the way forward in that of if you get the alum battery mount you can move that 10mm forward and run the shorty pack there. If you use the stock plastic mount you can get to this 10mm foward position with the mount in the forward position and laying one battey spacer down and have one up and that puts the battery in about the right spot.

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Thanks Casper. I think I understand what you mean. I have the aluminum
brace on order. Will be using the stock to start.

So the battery brace moves back and the battery pushed up against it with pads behind it?

Do you guys add any additional weight anywhere?

scracer68

iTrader: (9)

Does anyone make a longer chassis for the 22 for converting it to a SC truck?

h8thatadmin

There is the The Official RC Racing Designs TLR 22 SCT Conversion Thread for converting a 22t. You could convert a 22, but you would basically have to convert it to a 22T first. I see your name and your question doesn't make me wonder. There is a reason the SC class is refered to as "Short Bus" by most people that have been in this hobby pre-SC.

Jim Panebianco

iTrader: (1)

The chassis has another mounting position for the battery brace for shorty pack lipos, it is more rear on the chassis.

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Ya. I think that's one way he mentioned it. The other way was to just use foam to space it out with the brace in the front position. Going to test it tomorrow.

hondafixer

iTrader: (27)

Hey guys, i have a question. My steering rack is worn out, and even though i dont have the skill to feel a difference on the track, it annoys the shit out of mee seeing my f-end flop around. i want to order a new one ,maybe even metal...but what wear out? is it just the slide or is it the whole assy?