It did. Once your Kyosho shocks are built there's absolutely no reason to remove the cap. Just pull the bottom cartridge, and do what you do.

There is no need to dremel the shock tower. Add 2mm of shim between the tower and shock bushing and you are good to go.

In the process of making the switch to the 4.1. While waiting for the kit, I ordered the following:

JCI2135 JConcepts Aluminum 12mm Front Clamping Hex Wheel Adapter
JCI2091 JConcepts Aluminum 12mm Rear Clamping Hex Wheel Adapter
TLR5172 Team Losi Racing Front Shock Spring Set (2.5 Rate/Red)
TLR5166 Team Losi Racing Rear Shock Spring Set (1.8 Rate/White)
TRA3768 Traxxas Shock Spring Retainers (Upper & Lower) x2
ASC7496 Team Associated Hex Front Axle Set
ASC9880 Team Associated Hex Steering Block Set

Proline hex wheels.

Are the red and white springs the way to go at SRS Raceway in AZ? What about pistons and oil? Any help in finding a starting point would be appreciated.

Since I have a leftover shorty stick pack from my 22, is anyone using one in the b4.1?

A shock works best if it is 90 degrees in relation to the arm/arm hingepin when looked at from the side. Anti squat kicks the rear arm up in the front, which would require the rear shock to be laid back some.

If you look at the stock shock angle created by the upper shock bushing, adding more shims to space the top of the shock away from the tower would decrease this angle (in relation to the arm/arm hingepin).

I know it doesnt seem like much but, it can decrease rear traction if it is angled back too much.

Hideeho
I had wondered about how much difference that angle would make myself. Simple solution would be to shim the tower to move it forward from the block, then shim the top mount back from the tower. You end up leaving the top of the shock in the factory position & moving the tower forward & don't have to cut anything.

Zipperfoot,I'm running the shorty,red/yellow springs,I'm going to maybe try the white also if time allows,#2 pistons with 30wt/27.5wt 3 limiters up front and 2 in the rear,24mm ride height,2.5 pads in the rear

Like anything, you can overthink it. lol

1/10 buggy is really sensitive to small changes, so making sure you dont have the shock bind through its compression stroke from ALL angles is important... even making sure your shocks arent bound up at their arm and tower mounting points can make a world of difference.

I thought i was anal about car prep, then i saw Cav and his pops prepping his stuff for races. I dont feel so bad now...

Yeah, I used to think I was compulsive too. But there are guys at my local track that put me to OCD shame. The buggies are touchy about this kind of stuff.

And this is one of the reasons that I run full xx shocks/springs on my b4

anyone have any idea on screw size for motor using a big pinion and countersunk washers

Thanks a lot for the info. Appreciate it.

Can someone gimme a crashcourse on Proline M4 compound? Pros/Cons... ETC. Im familiar with M2 and M3...

Looks like an M3 FHCS (something like 91294A126 from McMaster Carr or http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Head-Screw-6) and some self aligning washers (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...er-Set-10-Gold). Haven't done this before....just me guessin'.

It's an even softer compound than M3...more tailored for dry and loose conditions.

Uh...stuck in the 90's are we?