RC10B4.1 FT/WC
02-20-2012 | 08:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
02-20-2012 | 10:28 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
02-20-2012 | 10:41 PM
So thought this link interesting below.
First off ..... if you havent seen it. Tekins new RSX esc with Randy Pike in first vid.
then Ty Tessman running a narrowed T4 chassis on his B4 in other.
http://rcinsider.com/?p=25174
First off ..... if you havent seen it. Tekins new RSX esc with Randy Pike in first vid.
then Ty Tessman running a narrowed T4 chassis on his B4 in other.
http://rcinsider.com/?p=25174
02-20-2012 | 11:58 PM
first outing with my worlds car today......it was amazing right off the bat! the car felt a little soft for my liking so I borrowed a set of kyosho(small bore) springs from a buddy and the car was dialed from then on. coming from a 22 where i had to drive the piss out of the car to be close to pace, this car just drives itself and is on pace! happy i made the switch and mad it took so long.
02-21-2012 | 05:23 AM
AE Shock mods....
After doing a lot of reading and testing, I came across something I thought I would share with you guys to make your day.
The center bushings in the AE shocks cause the shock to bind. We have discussed this in this forum. I found it doesn't just do this when the shock is at full extension, but it also does this when the shock has to change direction.
The bushing is 3.6+ mm thick. I found that if you sand it down to 3.45 mm and then slightly break the inner sharp edges (edges on the shaft) with a body reamer, you can make the shocks much more consistent.
The end cap on the bottom of the shock is a little tight as well. Again... just simply taking a body reamer to the inner edges relieves this as well.
Your shocks will build better and you will be able to match rebound as well.
The on track performance is significant.
Have fun!
TEX
The center bushings in the AE shocks cause the shock to bind. We have discussed this in this forum. I found it doesn't just do this when the shock is at full extension, but it also does this when the shock has to change direction.
The bushing is 3.6+ mm thick. I found that if you sand it down to 3.45 mm and then slightly break the inner sharp edges (edges on the shaft) with a body reamer, you can make the shocks much more consistent.
The end cap on the bottom of the shock is a little tight as well. Again... just simply taking a body reamer to the inner edges relieves this as well.
Your shocks will build better and you will be able to match rebound as well.
The on track performance is significant.
Have fun!
TEX
02-21-2012 | 06:23 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 394
After doing a lot of reading and testing, I came across something I thought I would share with you guys to make your day.
The center bushings in the AE shocks cause the shock to bind. We have discussed this in this forum. I found it doesn't just do this when the shock is at full extension, but it also does this when the shock has to change direction.
The bushing is 3.6+ mm thick. I found that if you sand it down to 3.45 mm and then slightly break the inner sharp edges (edges on the shaft) with a body reamer, you can make the shocks much more consistent.
The end cap on the bottom of the shock is a little tight as well. Again... just simply taking a body reamer to the inner edges relieves this as well.
Your shocks will build better and you will be able to match rebound as well.
The on track performance is significant.
Have fun!
TEX
The center bushings in the AE shocks cause the shock to bind. We have discussed this in this forum. I found it doesn't just do this when the shock is at full extension, but it also does this when the shock has to change direction.
The bushing is 3.6+ mm thick. I found that if you sand it down to 3.45 mm and then slightly break the inner sharp edges (edges on the shaft) with a body reamer, you can make the shocks much more consistent.
The end cap on the bottom of the shock is a little tight as well. Again... just simply taking a body reamer to the inner edges relieves this as well.
Your shocks will build better and you will be able to match rebound as well.
The on track performance is significant.
Have fun!
TEX
02-21-2012 | 06:31 AM
AE Shock mods.... continued...
I just used some 200 grit paper and I made myself a jig from an old AE shock assembly tool. Cut the end of it off so it does not protrude through the bushing. This allows me to hold it in place and apply the pressure properly.
Use your calipers to check your progress and you will be fine. After you sneak up on the first couple you do, you will get a feel for it. You don't have to be exact. It is the principle of getting it to free up that makes the difference.
Take your time and I promise it will be worth it in the end.
Regards,
TEX
Use your calipers to check your progress and you will be fine. After you sneak up on the first couple you do, you will get a feel for it. You don't have to be exact. It is the principle of getting it to free up that makes the difference.
Take your time and I promise it will be worth it in the end.
Regards,
TEX
02-21-2012 | 06:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
I did the same thing after reading Cherry mention it...I filed the spacer down to 3.5mm,made a huge difference.
Nice tip on the chamfer on the inside and the old shock tool to hold the spacer Tex...
I just sanded my finger tips down
Rebuilding the fronts tomorow,will add yor chamfer on the spacer and cap...
I have also had very good results using Tamiya Ceramic grease instead of the green slime....less stiction,and am gettting very good life out of the shock shaft coating.
Last years shock shafts are going back in for this season,virtually spotless
Nice tip on the chamfer on the inside and the old shock tool to hold the spacer Tex...
I just sanded my finger tips down
Rebuilding the fronts tomorow,will add yor chamfer on the spacer and cap...
I have also had very good results using Tamiya Ceramic grease instead of the green slime....less stiction,and am gettting very good life out of the shock shaft coating.
Last years shock shafts are going back in for this season,virtually spotless
02-21-2012 | 06:45 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 394
I just used some 200 grit paper and I made myself a jig from an old AE shock assembly tool. Cut the end of it off so it does not protrude through the bushing. This allows me to hold it in place and apply the pressure properly.
Use your calipers to check your progress and you will be fine. After you sneak up on the first couple you do, you will get a feel for it. You don't have to be exact. It is the principle of getting it to free up that makes the difference.
Take your time and I promise it will be worth it in the end.
Regards,
TEX
Use your calipers to check your progress and you will be fine. After you sneak up on the first couple you do, you will get a feel for it. You don't have to be exact. It is the principle of getting it to free up that makes the difference.
Take your time and I promise it will be worth it in the end.
Regards,
TEX
02-21-2012 | 07:35 AM
02-21-2012 | 08:07 AM
[QUOTE=tex1;10359680]After doing a lot of reading and testing, I came across something I thought I would share with you guys to make your day.
The center bushings in the AE shocks cause the shock to bind. We have discussed this in this forum. I found it doesn't just do this when the shock is at full extension, but it also does this when the shock has to change direction.
The bushing is 3.6+ mm thick. I found that if you sand it down to 3.45 mm and then slightly break the inner sharp edges (edges on the shaft) with a body reamer, you can make the shocks much more consistent.
The end cap on the bottom of the shock is a little tight as well. Again... just simply taking a body reamer to the inner edges relieves this as well.
Your shocks will build better and you will be able to match rebound as well.
The on track performance is significant.
Have fun!
TEX[/QUOT
Can u post some pics
The center bushings in the AE shocks cause the shock to bind. We have discussed this in this forum. I found it doesn't just do this when the shock is at full extension, but it also does this when the shock has to change direction.
The bushing is 3.6+ mm thick. I found that if you sand it down to 3.45 mm and then slightly break the inner sharp edges (edges on the shaft) with a body reamer, you can make the shocks much more consistent.
The end cap on the bottom of the shock is a little tight as well. Again... just simply taking a body reamer to the inner edges relieves this as well.
Your shocks will build better and you will be able to match rebound as well.
The on track performance is significant.
Have fun!
TEX[/QUOT
Can u post some pics
02-21-2012 | 08:41 AM
I believe you can remedy this by using the old shock bushing from the B4 kits. Part # 6440. But, don't quote me on that.
Aaaaand Cherry beat me to it...thats what I get for not refreshing the page. Haha
Aaaaand Cherry beat me to it...thats what I get for not refreshing the page. Haha
Last edited by Tyler Keel; 02-21-2012 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Cherry is quick on the trigger.