tomorrow i will run my first race event .its an indoor asphalt track .low traction ,3 jumps and 2-3 pieces of carpet .i have the world edition ,8.5 motor .what setup do you recomend ?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10406208-post12220.html

is the ds1015 strong enough??????

I would say so, majority of the team drivers use these servos as well as the avid bellcranks. Once again, its all about how you drive and if you stay off the pipes. You will more than likely break a servo horn before the servo.

Hey man, before I was at the local track and all they had was MIP SC10 ball diffs with metric bearings( a local racer told me) which I figured would work out bc of what you said earler. The diff (MIP#9130) was EXACTLY the same as the AE diff I just put together (ASC#7678) and had the same EXACT problem as before, the outdrives are too short and the dog bones keep popping out. I threw my gear diff in it just so I could run a few laps.

So now I have nearly a hundred dollars worth of brand new, unusable diffs. Matt, do you think I could purchase just the outdrives from the 9853/SC10 kit and use my balls and hardware from the other kits ? I am getting frustrated with this situation and my gear diff blows which it makes it all worse, I spin out if I give anything more then 1/8th throttle exiting a turn. Thanks for all your help and sorry to be annoying man, no one else has any idea wtf im talking about.

When I had my rtr b4.1 I put a ball diff in and put it back together and it was good enough to spit out a dog bone during the main.

I found that I had to swap over to CVAs. Problem solved. Hope this helps.

Hi Matt...


I am starting the car...I wanted to order the rear weight..

but when I look at the weight..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAELU&P=Z


it says it is only for the 4.1...


So exactly what weight are you guys fitting in the B4?...

ran my first race today with the worlds kit, amazing. i love this car. before i was low 21s high 20s. now mid 19s and setting pace with the faster guys at the track. cant believe the diffrence in the cars. ran standard set up on the tekin, no timing and no boost and feel like that hurt me with the straights as i was being pulled. cant wait to learn more about the tekin speed control as my lap times should improve.
i again cant say enough in the diffrences with 8+ and standard chasis. night and day. ran stock setup and worked of that and was fabolus.

Just finishing up my build. When building the shocks I don't see a measurement for the length between the top of the eyelet and the bottom of the shock body cap. How far do you screw the eyelet on?

Put the balls in the shock ends. Then screw them on as far as you can.

that's the weight,you may need different toe blocks they need to have a cut in the back of it to capture the weight in

You don't have any limiters in the rear shocks, do you? If not, that is your problem.

Like the other guy said...what rear axles do you have? Cvd's, dogbones or cva's. The two diffs you mentioned earlier are not the same. The outdrives use different bearings. The mip diff is the correct one for a b4.1.

If its the worlds kit there is two sheets of paper stapled together one sheet is a set up sheet the other sheet tells u the length of the exposed shock shafts front and rear

If the MIP diff was the correct one then I must have an issue with my dog bones. My car didn't come with CVD's just the crappy black dog bones. So if I get the FT CVD's I will no longer have an issue ? What about the MIP CVD's ? They seem to be better stocked locally.

Also, I do have limiters on my shocks and am running silver rears which are stiffer then stock so I don't think thats the issue. I was going to upgrade to the v2 shocks but once I saw the BB's AE is working on, I need to have them in my life.

And one last question when assembling diffs are their are any real "left" and "right" out drives when you install into the car or are those terms just for assembly purposes ? Thanks a ton gents, this car is my favorite but most frustrating as well haha