I just grub screwed my AE hubs and they are a lot better. bearing still move a little, but pretty good.

Where did you get your tap and die? Was it easy to do?

If you have more motor than needed (example 6.5 T on a short track) is it better to gear so the buggy has less top in or adjust the maximum output to the motor and run normal gearing? I am thinking if you gear for less top in then you would have too much bottom end. I guess then you would just adjust the slipper for a smoother take off?

I know....just buy the right turn motor. I already have too many motors and really don't want to buy any more.

a lot of racers just use the radio EPA and reduce the full speed throttle .
Can also use ARC throttle or to smooth the power.

Note :
Reducing the throttle ARC or EPA more than 25% will remove some bottom end power as well.....

Thanks, I have a M11 radio but haven't figured out all the things this radio can do. One questionI do have is where do you set your ESC settings on everything if your radio is capable of making these changes. I am assuming nuetral or 0% for most, like braking, throttle control, etc.

What amount of front and rear toe are you guys running?

I am running 3.0 with 0.0 hubs in the rear and 0 up front.

kevin , check the instructions for your ESC for proper radio setting's....

Just ordered a b4.1 wc I had one before when I ran carpet but know I run dirt. What motor should I get a closed can or vented I'm thinking closed and what brand it will be a 7.5 or 8.5. Thank you

sounds about right


@@revo dan, you dont want dirt getting inside the rotor.

i would suggest an Orion Pro Race or Reedy motor..the turn would be depending on your track size..but 8.5 is a good motor on any sized track.

Thanks guys for the replies! I'm new to 2wd buggy and might need a "slower" motor for starting out. Is there any needed parts to have on-hand for this buggy? I've got b4 that I bought and ran for 5 mins of practice. Could I use any parts off of that?

Thanks again

i would run stock buggy,learn how to drive it and get comfortable wheeling it around and learn how it reacts to everything,when you think its time move up to mod,I've been running stock for a while just haven't been able to race on a consistent basis,my buddy has a 7.5 I'm thinking about trying but right now with my setup and gearing for blinky 17.5 my car is damn fast and its on rails.took 1st in stock buggy fri night

Does anyone run 12mm hex in the rear only, to prevent stripping out the slot on the stock wheel? Im going to order wheels tomorrow and thought about buying a hex setup for the rear but buy stock syle wheels for the front.
Any pros/cons to setting it up this way or should I just buy slotted rear wheels?

Im not sure what type of wheel nuts you are using in the rear but when i ran pin style rear wheels the only time i had a problem striping them out was due to a worn out nylock nut. Jconcepts sells serrated wheel nuts that should eliminate that problem if you wish to stick to the pin style wheel. I personally am running hex all around.

The hex in the rear just helps for the rim not stripping,won't effect car with only rear done,it's more of a bling thing up front,I've never had a issue with the pin stripping the wheels though