comeseethis.com has been upgraded and replaced with www.rcgearhead.com. Now you can submit vehicles, motors, and your own gearing.

The new site averages all the FDRs that are submitted for a specific vehicle and motor (but you can still change it) to come up with the recommended final drive ratio.

I have also added a top-speed calculator. Just make sure you pick a tire, because if you don't, you won't get a value for the top speed!

I hope you like it!

Craig

Had my first outing with my FTSC10. Ran it box stock except for RPM ball cups and I ran wishbones on the rear and the stock subcultures up front. TQ'ed and took first in the main. Just a club race, but my first time taking first in any expert class. The truck feels "fluffy" or mushy, but I'm so used to running 2wd buggy and 4wd buggy that it may just be how SC feels. I think I would like to stiffen it up a little, but at the same time, I was impressed that even though it felt soft, I could power through the sweeper, it turned in nicely, and while it was leaning quite a bit, it never lost it's composure or rolled over. In fact, I could have pushed it much harder.

Is there a preferred set-up for a medium traction indoor track?

Not sure where to ask this but I want to put a boosted 10.5 ballistic motor in my sc10 with a Tekin RSPro.

Any tips on gearing and esc settings for this?

I would go to www.teamtekin.com and check for gearing and esc setups there

so i just got a used rtr sc10 roller and was wondering what diff oil i should reabuild my gear diff with. the track is a low traction track. thanks for any info i am new to sc

i put 10k in mine and it rotates really good but i want to play with 3,5,7k so try 5

My new FT SC10. Enjoyed racing it for the first time last week. Can't wait to get out again with it. :nod::tire::tire::nod:

is it the less weight you go the more it well spin? the thicker the more tracktion you get?

Lighter oil will let the diff unload easier. Heavier oil will provide more resistance to unloading.

so for low traction like dirt you go heavy and for high traction like clay you go light

Tore my used ft sc10 down for a cleaning and maintenance check and have a few issues.

1 axle pin is lodged in the shaft some how it was flattened on both ends.
Diff sound like a chain; balls are best up
Front axle is chewed up

Minor issues I guess but I want to add some things and want opinions.

I want to put RPM rod ends on it, RPM arms, and a MIP diff any opinions on these?

RPM rod ends= good, lots of people use them
RPM arms= bad, too flexy, unless your looking for that
MIP diff= good, but why not just rebuild your kit diff?

As I understand it (and I am no expert) A looser diff will allow the rear to rotate better. But too loose on low traction can cause control issues down the straight. Too tight a diff can result in spinning out in the corners. But can give you a little more straight line control. It is about finding the balance between cornering and straight line traction.

I was rotating really well last weekend in my RT5 but the track was a little loose and I was having straight line issues, so I tightened it up a bit (1/8th of a turn on the ball diff) and I was able to get on throttle better down the straight. Same concepts apply to gear diffs, you just adjust them with oils instead of friction.

Okay ill keep stock arms

As for the MIP diff. I could rebuild the stocker would be the cheapest route. Is there and pros/cons to the mip

hi there

here is my sc10 and his power in hardcase :-)