C_Money

iTrader: (27)

I don't have the car yet so I don't have a need for them yet. Thanks though

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I sent you PM with link to a better photo. These packs can be ordered with Deans or "tubes."

Konich

iTrader: (9)

Joe,
My order came in today! Thanks again for the help and professional service. I will be putting in another order for some gear fluid soon, and some of those schweet Durango shirts! Keep up the good work.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Guys,

What is the best way to remove the main gear from the outdrive on a diff? I forgot the washer and just know I will have a leaky diff! I suppose since I had to tap it on with a plastic hammer it is not coming off is it?

JoeNolasco

iTrader: (5)

Konich, No thank YOU! Glad to hear everything got there ok!

Dangerwr--Yeah...that gear is not likely to come off. lol maybe if you could fit a puller of some type in there?? I hammered mine on too. I didn't want to grind the gears due to the possibility of making the hex too big.

Luckily, Durango has complete Diffs! http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/tdr210001.htm

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Geez! Now how do you install the outer wheel nut on the front CVDs??? That thing is not going on!!! Nothing on Oople either. Seems likes their crush spacer is too big or not crushing--either one. I cannot get that pin to fit in the groove on the nut. Durango has made some of these parts fit a little too tight and is taking the fun out of this build.

I want to take this thing and race tomorrow but not at this rate. I already had to turn down a part on a lathe! What else?!?

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

Everything went together fine aside from the servo saver shaft. I picked up a new one for $2 and it fit like a glove.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Looks like if I nix the crush washer it will fit pretty good. I am a bit confused . . .

Correction. I am an idiot! I guess I should stop building when I am tired because I guess I cannot follow instructions.

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

You simply cannot assemble this kit without a variety of nail files and some patience.

wooody

im looking to get a durango wondering if i should get the 410 or the 410r? cant decide if its worth the money for the hopups that come on the 410. if i do get the 410r what are the nessasary hopups if any?
thanks

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Just get the 410R and the front aluminum suspension blocks and you'll be set. don't forget the suspension balls that have to be used with the aluminum blocks. Some people have changed out the ball cups/ends to standard ones. The Durango ball cups are a little soft and can pop off easy. I used the AE TC5 ball ends and some losi white ball cups on mine. It's way cheaper to start with the 410R since most people like the added chassis flex from the plastic chassis side and rear braces anyway.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

Do yourself a favor and ditch the rear skid plate ASAP as well. You can either get the $30 weight or run without one. My stock one lasted about 1/2 a race (4 minutes) before it turned into an anchor.

mike881

anybody running these batteries in this car?

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=9967

They are 31mm, I dont know where the batteries are located in this car but I read somewhere they have 25mm straps. Can I rig something up to make these packs work?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

No, you absolutely can not run those packs. You have to stick to the 25mm height rule, the rear driveshaft runs right over the batteries in this car.

mike881

ok thanks. You guys know of any other good deals on saddle packs?