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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Last edit by: Kraig
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 04-15-2019, 08:59 PM
  #2671  
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Originally Posted by dickie doyle
Tried finding this info, without much luck....
The manual has a handful of long time brands of servos and the appropriate shims for them. I’m loving a smaller brand of servo (BK), what is the proper angle, if any at all, to get the proper drag link setup and how the heck do you figure it out?
My understanding is to shim it so that the link is as close to flat as possible at centre and parallel with the face of the servo.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:41 PM
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Default Servo Over Heating

Originally Posted by robert890
Ive never had an issue with a Savox 1258. I have one that is 6 years old and still running strong.
Is the protek overheating on you?

Granted no visual signs of smoke or smell. How can you tell if a servo is overheating?
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:55 AM
  #2673  
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Originally Posted by mushroomed


My understanding is to shim it so that the link is as close to flat as possible at centre and parallel with the face of the servo.
After seeing this post I checked all three of my buggies. When you remove the shim you have to use a 6mm screw (bottom only one only) instead of the 8mm; screw which mounts the servo ear to the blue mounts otherwise 8mm screw will hit the chassis mount making your servo uneven when fully mounted to the brace. You will have very little clearace if any. The other option is to use the shim on the front side of the servo ear to keep the screw from sticking out the back and hitting the chassis brace.
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:47 PM
  #2674  
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Default Servo Centre

Just setting up my radio gear and noticed I need lots of subtrim to get the steering centred.
I am using a 25 tooth horn, before I pull it out and reset it, is this a common issue? I tested it when I built it and took several goes but the 25 tooth doesn't like being vertical.
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:52 PM
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Just purchased the aluminum hubs,can someone tell me what holes matches the on the plastic hubs for the ball stud
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Pistol123
Just setting up my radio gear and noticed I need lots of subtrim to get the steering centred.
I am using a 25 tooth horn, before I pull it out and reset it, is this a common issue? I tested it when I built it and took several goes but the 25 tooth doesn't like being vertical.
You want the servo horn aimed around 1 o'clock, not straight up. The horn and steering link should form a 90 degree angle when installed and the wheels are pointing straight ahead.
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:50 PM
  #2677  
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Originally Posted by Krio
You want the servo horn aimed around 1 o'clock, not straight up. The horn and steering link should form a 90 degree angle when installed and the wheels are pointing straight ahead.
The link has the 1mm spacer and the horn is vertical with the wheels straight as per the instructions.

Are you saying I need to shorten the link (take out the 1mm spacer) to get the horn to 1 o'clock?
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by speed101
Just purchased the aluminum hubs,can someone tell me what holes matches the on the plastic hubs for the ball stud
Most people use the C hole on the AE Rear Alum. Hub with ball stud spacer at 3mm. This is a good starting point.
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:11 PM
  #2679  
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Originally Posted by Pistol123
Just setting up my radio gear and noticed I need lots of subtrim to get the steering centred.
I am using a 25 tooth horn, before I pull it out and reset it, is this a common issue? I tested it when I built it and took several goes but the 25 tooth doesn't like being vertical.

i have an Exotek on my B6.1 and have to use a bunch of subtrim, on my t6.1 I have the FT aluminum horn and it's a straight up fit. Same servo on both cars. I purchased the FT for my B6.1 and am assuming a straight up fit with it too, but have yet to get it installed.
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Pistol123
The link has the 1mm spacer and the horn is vertical with the wheels straight as per the instructions.

Are you saying I need to shorten the link (take out the 1mm spacer) to get the horn to 1 o'clock?
No do not take the 1mm blue spacer. Re-position the horn so that is almost straight up and down (close to 1 oclock) as stated. If all the turnbuckles are adjusted per the manual, your wheels should be pretty close to straight.
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dowj28
Most people use the C hole on the AE Rear Alum. Hub with ball stud spacer at 3mm. This is a good starting point.
thank you
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:32 PM
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Not sure where this 1 o'clock business came from, I run mine straight up and down (12 o'clock), which is what the manual says.
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Old 04-18-2019, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
Not sure where this 1 o'clock business came from, I run mine straight up and down (12 o'clock), which is what the manual says.
You want the mechanical exponential in the steering rack to be as even as possible left to right. To achieve this is, you want the angle formed between the servo horn and the link to the steering rack to form a 90 degree angle. This applies to all vehicles.

If it isn't 90 degrees, you'll notice uneven end points at full throw which means it will take longer to reach full steering throw in one direction compared to the other. Can make for a car that doesn't feel the same entering a left corner vs a right.

If the steering link is parallel to the chassis, then you want the servo horn pointed straight up for that 90 degree angle. If it slopes down from the servo horn to the steering rack, you'll need to offset the servo horn. In the end, your goal is to have the steering rack perfectly centered with equal left and right turnbuckles and you want that 90 degree angle of the horn and link to keep left and right steering speed/leverage equal. Going to different length servo horns will alter this as well.
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:39 AM
  #2684  
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Originally Posted by Krio
You want the mechanical exponential in the steering rack to be as even as possible left to right. To achieve this is, you want the angle formed between the servo horn and the link to the steering rack to form a 90 degree angle. This applies to all vehicles.
Thanks, you're right. I've written about this, not sure how I missed that the B6.1 has the steering link angled down.
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Old 04-20-2019, 07:34 AM
  #2685  
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Default Ceramic Bearings gear case

Does anyone know if anyone sells ceramic bearings only for the inside diff and gearbox?
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