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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Last edit by: Kraig
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 03-05-2019, 02:00 PM
  #2521  
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Awesome post! Thanks you! (This should be part of the wiki for sure) So some Toe In Bumpsteer would be helpful on a jump/turn such as the picture attached.
Interesting, when I read this post I was actually thinking about adding bump steer to tame some steering coming up the jump faces on that same layout.... more so the double after the triple in the center though.

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Old 03-05-2019, 05:38 PM
  #2522  
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I'm an Associated guy to the core, raced an original gold tub, so that it why I'm asking on here. What are people using for an
alignment tool? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:47 PM
  #2523  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
thanks for the explanation, I have changed my 6.1D setup to match the Rivkin setup he used when he raced at my track and did everything but this and I really likes how it handled. I was running the box setup before this< think Ill leav the spacer in there for now.
Could you post his setup by chance? I’m only seeing his 6.1 setups online and I’m having a hard time finding 6.1d setups for my track conditions.
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Old 03-07-2019, 11:46 PM
  #2524  
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All the setup sheets I’m finding online don’t specify whether they’re running the 6.1d rear shock bodies or the 6.1. And on top of it, it seems like every setup sheet with the 6.1d says to run the shorter 6.1 rear tower. Why? Is there a good setup sheet that uses all the stock 6.1d parts without having to mix match other parts?
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Old 03-08-2019, 12:20 AM
  #2525  
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Originally Posted by richard0714
All the setup sheets I’m finding online don’t specify whether they’re running the 6.1d rear shock bodies or the 6.1. And on top of it, it seems like every setup sheet with the 6.1d says to run the shorter 6.1 rear tower. Why? Is there a good setup sheet that uses all the stock 6.1d parts without having to mix match other parts?
Tall and short shocks is something I tested recently. I think the additional oil in the taller shock bodies ends up with less pack and softer damping, which would be beneficial for a real bumpy track with smaller jumps. For indoor clay tracks it seems to create a lot of rearward weight shift on throttle which then takes longer to transfer back forward when you need steering for the next corner. It can almost become a seesaw affect if you drive it hard.

Using the exact same springs/oil/piston/stroke/eyelet and switching over to the short bodies and tower made the car react quicker as the weight shift is not as excessive with the slower damping and more pack, doesn't feel as stuck on the back end all the time. It can absorb bigger impacts without slapping as hard with the short shocks too.

Brent Thielke usually uses the tall shock setup, you could look at his setups. I tried short shock setups sheets with the long shocks but it just doesn't drive right to be honest.
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Old 03-08-2019, 01:06 AM
  #2526  
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You might go down in pistons to compensate for the larger oil volume, e.g. 1.7 instead of 1.8.
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Old 03-08-2019, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by trf211
Tall and short shocks is something I tested recently. I think the additional oil in the taller shock bodies ends up with less pack and softer damping, which would be beneficial for a real bumpy track with smaller jumps. For indoor clay tracks it seems to create a lot of rearward weight shift on throttle which then takes longer to transfer back forward when you need steering for the next corner. It can almost become a seesaw affect if you drive it hard.

Using the exact same springs/oil/piston/stroke/eyelet and switching over to the short bodies and tower made the car react quicker as the weight shift is not as excessive with the slower damping and more pack, doesn't feel as stuck on the back end all the time. It can absorb bigger impacts without slapping as hard with the short shocks too.

Brent Thielke usually uses the tall shock setup, you could look at his setups. I tried short shock setups sheets with the long shocks but it just doesn't drive right to be honest.
Thanks for the detailed reply! My track is indoor clay and it’s super high grip right now. I’m running the stock b6.1d tall rear tower but using short body rear shocks. Is that going to give me trouble not matching the long tower to the longer shock bodies? Would you suggest keeping the short shock bodies and buying a short tower?
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Old 03-08-2019, 02:26 AM
  #2528  
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Originally Posted by richard0714


Could you post his setup by chance? I’m only seeing his 6.1 setups online and I’m having a hard time finding 6.1d setups for my track conditions.
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...vkin_CRCRC.pdf
here you go it is listed under the 6.1D but the sheet it's self says 6.1 so not sure which for sure he was running.
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Old 03-08-2019, 06:00 AM
  #2529  
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Originally Posted by richard0714

I’m running the stock b6.1d tall rear tower but using short body rear shocks. Is that going to give me trouble not matching the long tower to the longer shock bodies? Would you suggest keeping the short shock bodies and buying a short tower?
are you running the short eyelets on the shocks? If so, you could compensate for the length with the long eyelets, or even just back out the eyelets 2x turns. The short bodies/long tower give you more up-travel (some of which you’ll lose if you add droop) which can be helpful for crooked landings and bumpy high-grip situations.
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Old 03-08-2019, 10:30 AM
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When shopping online for springs, I wish V1 or V2 was listed in the description. Frustrating.

Is associated still producing the V1 springs or are they being phased out? Thanks!
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:00 AM
  #2531  
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You need to see the P/N. This may help. I have attached a Microsoft Word Doc of this chart.

FRONTS
Version Color Rate P/N
1 BROWN 2.85 91325
1 BLACK 3.00 91326
2 GREEN 3.10 91830
1 GREEN 3.15 91327
1 WHITE 3.30 91328
2 WHITE 3.40 91831
1 GREY 3.45 91329
1 BLUE 3.60 91330
1 YELLOW 3.75 91331
1 RED 3.90 91332
1 ORANGE 4.05 91333
1 PURPLE 4.20 91334
2 YELLOW 4.30 91834
2 RED 4.60 91835
2 ORANGE 5.10 91836


REARS
2 GREEN 1.80 91837
1 BLACK 1.90 91335
2 GREY 2.00 91839
1 WHITE 2.10 91337
2 BLUE 2.20 91840
2 YELLOW 2.30 91841
1 YELLOW 2.40 91340
Attached Files
File Type: doc
ASSOCIATED SPRING RATES.doc (40.0 KB, 59 views)
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Old 03-08-2019, 02:11 PM
  #2532  
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Originally Posted by mes
You might go down in pistons to compensate for the larger oil volume, e.g. 1.7 instead of 1.8.
Great suggestion and something I will consider next time. With some guys running split 1.6/1.7 front piston I was debating just switching front and rear pistons like we ran on some buggies years ago.

Originally Posted by richard0714
Thanks for the detailed reply! My track is indoor clay and it’s super high grip right now. I’m running the stock b6.1d tall rear tower but using short body rear shocks. Is that going to give me trouble not matching the long tower to the longer shock bodies? Would you suggest keeping the short shock bodies and buying a short tower?
Keep the short shocks on and grab a short tower. To be honest I haven't seen anybody use mismatched tower and shock. In order to make the tall tower/short shock drive similar to short/short you would have to add several mm of droop and limit up travel to your current shocks.

Last edited by trf211; 03-08-2019 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 03-08-2019, 04:11 PM
  #2533  
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Correct me if I’m wrong but by the time you’ve replaced the rear tower, rear shock bodies and changed the layback to lay down transmission, don’t you just have a 6.1 on your hands? Besides the 7mm hex’s? Is there any reason to choose a 6.1d over a 6.1 if you’re in a small, high grip clay track?
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Old 03-08-2019, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by richard0714
Correct me if I’m wrong but by the time you’ve replaced the rear tower, rear shock bodies and changed the layback to lay down transmission, don’t you just have a 6.1 on your hands? Besides the 7mm hex’s? Is there any reason to choose a 6.1d over a 6.1 if you’re in a small, high grip clay track?
The only other thing is the ball diff that comes with the 6.1d
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:00 PM
  #2535  
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6.1 = gear diff, sway bars, laydown, short rear shocks, and short rear shock tower.

I have a 6.1d that I put a Xray XB2 gears in a 6.1 gear diff housing.
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