1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
|
05-24-2019, 12:09 AM
#2822
Richard adding a little more shock stroke will help. To me the only things that stick out on the setup sheet that will weaken the landing ability is the 27mm shock stroke, 28.5mm is a good starting point. The further you move the axles up the more it hampers the landing ability, so the shorter shock stroke and raised rear axle combined together will contribute to the bottom out issue. I'd start with just the shock package though as that is most important for jump handling.
Was this setup sheet made for your layout?
Was this setup sheet made for your layout?
05-24-2019, 05:37 AM
#2823
What were the air temps like at your track? Every 10 degrees or so, you should be going up or down 2.5wt on the oil to keep damping the same. There's a chart somewhere that shows viscosity vs temp that will help you nail oil changes when the weather fluctuates. Just a thought on why you are experiencing bouncy landings. Maybe your local temps are different enough to warrant an oil change.
05-24-2019, 11:03 AM
#2824
Now that I've studied more setup sheets, it seems like most people are favoring the gull arms anyway. Out of 15 medium traction dirt setups, only 4 use flat arms and they are all with standup transmissions. Everybody else is on gull arms with standup or layback. I guess the best thing for me to do is just try them both and see for myself, but I'm curious. Anybody run flat arms with a layback?
05-24-2019, 11:57 AM
#2825
Tech Addict
21mm front, 28.5mm rear is the base setup and a pretty balanced starting point.
05-24-2019, 12:43 PM
#2826
Now that I've studied more setup sheets, it seems like most people are favoring the gull arms anyway. Out of 15 medium traction dirt setups, only 4 use flat arms and they are all with standup transmissions. Everybody else is on gull arms with standup or layback. I guess the best thing for me to do is just try them both and see for myself, but I'm curious. Anybody run flat arms with a layback?
I think the setups you read may have as much to do with what the various kit configurations include as they do with set up choices.
05-24-2019, 12:56 PM
#2827
Richard, one other thing to clarify is your shock rebound. Pop the spring off and put the spring cup back on the shaft. compress it and if it rebounds this could be causing inconsistencies. Try the stroke changes as mention previously but definitely check the rebound each race day as it will change because... physics.
05-24-2019, 02:39 PM
#2828
I do, because I converted a B6D to 6.1D so I already had the flat arms. As near as I can tell, there isn't actually a difference in geometry between the two (tower positions cancel out arm location), so I don't consider the difference to be something to change for.
I think the setups you read may have as much to do with what the various kit configurations include as they do with set up choices.
I think the setups you read may have as much to do with what the various kit configurations include as they do with set up choices.
05-24-2019, 09:06 PM
#2829
Question for you guys I have a factory lite i just got I want to run it on Astro turf track and carpet track. Someone told me the pucks and and ball diff are not good and I will tear them up. Is this right ? I got the gear diff and reg axles for it just in case . I also have a B6.1 D that I already setup for carpet from a buyer on the forum . I was gonna leave the factory lite setup for clay but I am pretty much gonna run at the track near me which is turf . Wanted to have a back up Buggy that’s why I got the 6.1D . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
05-24-2019, 11:47 PM
#2830
Question for you guys I have a factory lite i just got I want to run it on Astro turf track and carpet track. Someone told me the pucks and and ball diff are not good and I will tear them up. Is this right ? I got the gear diff and reg axles for it just in case . I also have a B6.1 D that I already setup for carpet from a buyer on the forum . I was gonna leave the factory lite setup for clay but I am pretty much gonna run at the track near me which is turf . Wanted to have a back up Buggy that’s why I got the 6.1D . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
05-25-2019, 12:03 AM
#2831
Question for you guys I have a factory lite i just got I want to run it on Astro turf track and carpet track. Someone told me the pucks and and ball diff are not good and I will tear them up. Is this right ? I got the gear diff and reg axles for it just in case . I also have a B6.1 D that I already setup for carpet from a buyer on the forum . I was gonna leave the factory lite setup for clay but I am pretty much gonna run at the track near me which is turf . Wanted to have a back up Buggy that’s why I got the 6.1D . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
clay / dirt = stock slipper / schelle nova slipper, any direct drive , aluminum pucks, stock driveshafts. ball diff
for me ... don't really care about pucks. I run stock driveshafts in all surfaces.
05-25-2019, 02:33 AM
#2832
I do, because I converted a B6D to 6.1D so I already had the flat arms. As near as I can tell, there isn't actually a difference in geometry between the two (tower positions cancel out arm location), so I don't consider the difference to be something to change for.
I think the setups you read may have as much to do with what the various kit configurations include as they do with set up choices.
I think the setups you read may have as much to do with what the various kit configurations include as they do with set up choices.
05-25-2019, 09:45 AM
#2833
Tech Apprentice
Beveled shock pistons?
Hey all, just joined and I’m getting back into racing after being gone for several long years. When would you use beveled shock pistons, and what advantage to they give you? Thanks I’m advance!
05-25-2019, 11:34 AM
#2834
Depending on the direction of the bevel, shock decompression or compression is faster. The can be good on very smooth tracks, but I found set-up work much easier with normal flat pistons.
05-25-2019, 05:35 PM
#2835
With a direct drive system, your ball diff will suffer for sure. If you are running 17.5 only and switch to a slipper, you may be able to get some decent runtime out of your ball diff and pucks, but a standard drive train is better suited to such (very) high-grip surfaces. Adding the Schelle Nova would be a good compromise , it is lighter than the AE slipper.