1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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11-29-2018, 02:01 PM
#2071
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11-29-2018, 02:47 PM
#2072
So I just picked up the factory lite kit and will be running on carpet. Is the aluminum steering set up something I should pick up before I start to build or is the kit stuff good to go at start?
Also since I have not started building what should I like to get before I start building is there anything that is a must need to race or is the kit good to go out of the box?
Also since I have not started building what should I like to get before I start building is there anything that is a must need to race or is the kit good to go out of the box?
The money burns me: brass bulkhead(is very high grip), steel servo plate, alum servo horn, alum bellcranks(not the full steering assembly).
11-29-2018, 08:22 PM
#2073
So I just picked up the factory lite kit and will be running on carpet. Is the aluminum steering set up something I should pick up before I start to build or is the kit stuff good to go at start?
Also since I have not started building what should I like to get before I start building is there anything that is a must need to race or is the kit good to go out of the box?
Also since I have not started building what should I like to get before I start building is there anything that is a must need to race or is the kit good to go out of the box?
Probably not what you want to hear, but...
If running on carpet you might consider selling or returning the Factory Lite and getting the standard B6.1. It is set up for carpet right out of the box. You can add the additional weights if you choose, and you probably will, but it will be far cheaper in the long run.
Last edited by fastev; 11-30-2018 at 11:48 AM.
11-30-2018, 09:25 PM
#2074
1. The #3 vs #4 steering blocks is the distance that the axle is from the kingpins/shoulder screws. #3 is 3mm back and #4 is 4mm back. #3 will be more aggressive steering and is good for really tight tracks. #4 smooths out steering response and can be beneficial on fast, flowing layouts. When you switch between them, you need to swap the shim on the hinge pin to keep the rest of the geometry the same. The #3 hub should have the shim placed on the front and the #4 needs the shim on the back.
2. The +1 steering arms produce more ackerman than the stock arms. This typically results in a car with more steering when you enter the corner and a smoother transition from mid corner to the exit.
2. The +1 steering arms produce more ackerman than the stock arms. This typically results in a car with more steering when you enter the corner and a smoother transition from mid corner to the exit.
12-01-2018, 08:26 AM
#2076
In addition to everything else listed above, you will need to get the steel cva's. The pucks that come on the factory lite will not fit into the gear diff outdrives. I would also get the normal topshaft and slipper clutch assembly. I have heard of idler gears stripping with the eliminator installed on high traction carpet. Also, I believe that the factory lite comes with the layback tranny, the laydown is preferred on carpet.
I don’t know if anyone mentioned it, but the Factory Lite/6.1D rear tower is taller and the rear shocks are longer than the B6.1.
Probably not what you want to hear, but...
If running on carpet you might consider selling or returning the Factory Lite and getting the standard B6.1. It is set up for carpet right out of the box. You can add the additional weights if you choose, and you probably will, but it will be far cheaper in the long run.
Probably not what you want to hear, but...
If running on carpet you might consider selling or returning the Factory Lite and getting the standard B6.1. It is set up for carpet right out of the box. You can add the additional weights if you choose, and you probably will, but it will be far cheaper in the long run.
If you want to run carpet or turf get the 6.1
The reason there calling this a lite is they didnt include the steel chassis plate that weighs 36 grams and added the MIP Pucks.
If you want a lite for the dirt upgrade the 6.1D from the stock cv's to the MIP Puck syustem. Its like 88.00 ay AMain. That way you have a layback transmission then add the direct drive from Avid or Schelle Racing.
If you want a lite carpet car get the 6.1 and drop the chassis weight. Youll lose 36 grams. If you need the weight look into the graphite or aluminum chassis plates.
12-01-2018, 09:03 AM
#2077
How much taller is the shock tower compared to the b6 +1 tower?
Last edited by toepush; 12-01-2018 at 09:21 AM.
12-01-2018, 08:46 PM
#2078
Hi, my local indoor dirt track is low bite, and I've been wanting to replace my waterfall with a tie rod connected to the battery strap. I think I need two b6.1 shock eyelets, an extra shock pivot ball, and an appropriate length turnbuckle, either steel or titanium. Does this sound correct? And if there's a ready to go pack of these for this purpose, let me know.
12-01-2018, 09:11 PM
#2079
Last year, there were guys running with no brace at all. Have you tried that?
12-02-2018, 12:06 AM
#2081
Tech Addict
Dont bother! I rebuild my 6.1D into a 6.1 and am missing just the rear shocks and tower. I am just as (in)capable as any other guy.
Yesterday we had some really nice laps going and 2 B6.1 and 2 Xrays (think fully upgraded 2017 or 2018). We were running ALL 12:7XX times (later on I got 10minutes alone on the track and instantly managed a 12:240)
So if you want to save the money, buy some set of tires or sets of arms (I dont even run the hard, too much breaking on carpet)
Yesterday we had some really nice laps going and 2 B6.1 and 2 Xrays (think fully upgraded 2017 or 2018). We were running ALL 12:7XX times (later on I got 10minutes alone on the track and instantly managed a 12:240)
So if you want to save the money, buy some set of tires or sets of arms (I dont even run the hard, too much breaking on carpet)
12-02-2018, 05:16 AM
#2082
Hi, my local indoor dirt track is low bite, and I've been wanting to replace my waterfall with a tie rod connected to the battery strap. I think I need two b6.1 shock eyelets, an extra shock pivot ball, and an appropriate length turnbuckle, either steel or titanium. Does this sound correct? And if there's a ready to go pack of these for this purpose, let me know.
12-02-2018, 06:24 AM
#2083
The factory liteis a mix of the B6.1 and the B6.1D. It is labled RC10B6.1 Factory Lite or FL. It is neither a 6.1 or 6.1D. It has the taller rear shock tower and longer rear shock bodies of the 6.1D. Bodies are 31mm not 27mm. It has a ball diff like the 6.1D. The transmission is a Laydown not a layback. Thats from the 6.1. Why they did that for a dirt/clay car is beyond me. The one thing that is not in the usual b6.1 series is the direct drive. The only non AE part is the MIP Pucks system. It is currently only for the ball diff.
If you want to run carpet or turf get the 6.1
The reason there calling this a lite is they didnt include the steel chassis plate that weighs 36 grams and added the MIP Pucks.
If you want a lite for the dirt upgrade the 6.1D from the stock cv's to the MIP Puck syustem. Its like 88.00 ay AMain. That way you have a layback transmission then add the direct drive from Avid or Schelle Racing.
If you want a lite carpet car get the 6.1 and drop the chassis weight. Youll lose 36 grams. If you need the weight look into the graphite or aluminum chassis plates.
For the the original post about running the FL on carpet, it’s doable but you do want the gear diff and steel driveshafts. 67mm to be exact. You can run the taller rear shocks and tower, change them out later if you feel it’s hurting you. I would add the steel electronics weight and get yellow and red front springs and blue rears. Then just get it on the track and see what you want it to do differently.
12-02-2018, 03:13 PM
#2085
Tech Initiate
RC10B5/6 part swap
So I'm new to the forum and acquired a used RC10B5 with a Reedy XR DS1015 high speed/high tq servo, black box 800z esc, Reedy Sonic M3 17.5 spec motor. Now this is for my stepson who is 7 and I got myself a RC10B6.1 lite.
I am wondering If I should swap the motor and servo onto mine and give him what I ordered haha! What I have coming for mine is a Hobbywing XR10 justock esc and motor (17.5) and I got a Savox Ryan Cavalieri Standard Digital "High Speed" Servo Titanium Gear. Both are going to be stock just wondering what are the better of the parts or what I should put on mine out of all of them.
Thanks!!!
I am wondering If I should swap the motor and servo onto mine and give him what I ordered haha! What I have coming for mine is a Hobbywing XR10 justock esc and motor (17.5) and I got a Savox Ryan Cavalieri Standard Digital "High Speed" Servo Titanium Gear. Both are going to be stock just wondering what are the better of the parts or what I should put on mine out of all of them.
Thanks!!!