thefan

iTrader: (3)

Yes I agree about supporting the towers, I have a set of spare towers from a touring car that im going to bolt onto the back of the 410 towers hopefully this stiffens them up to take a beating. Incidently what type of track is your standard team setup based on?

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Wow, I run on a large 1/10 track with large jumps that easily accommodates 8th scale cars comfortably and my car takes some ridiculous spills and it keeps right on going. This past weekend I was clipped and pushed into a pipe while at full speed (my car is FAST) and the right front arm sheered off completely at the center point but it doesn't mean there's something wrong with the car. Plastic vs speed, weight and G-forces means something WILL break upon instant deceleration. You can't expect a car traveling at these insane speeds to not break if you get it wrong.

Whenever something has broken on my car it's been with good reason.

Dino_D

The setup based on a medium grip (dirt/clay) outdoor, dry and slightly sugared track. I run Sid's raceway, which is the testing ground for a lot of our setups. It sometimes can get a little blown out, or we can sugar it more and keep it moist to test other setups. We have also raced our cars at other tracks and require minimal changes (everything from low grip dirt to high bite sugar). First of all, sure if you have all the time in the world you can tweak and tune for the best possible performance at a track. But what works well on one track may not work on another. But if you go from track to track, you kinda need a good base to start that works well at most tracks and just tweak it here and there.

First of all the oil is based on outside temp. Hotter the weather, the heavier we go. The standard setup is for 25C temps. Adjust your oils step higher or lower accordingly. Tires are the main things we change when on low bite. Normally opting for soft or supersoft AKA impacts, HB megabites, Proline Holeshots, or Proline Blockades. We normally use X2 scrubs in front all season outdoors regardless of grip. The harder front tires and tire pattern keeps the car from pulling too hard out of corners with aggressive steering. So we just adjust the rear tire for grip. Impacts normally have more grip, holeshots tend to be a bit more aggressive in steering. And Blockades when the tracks get rutted.

For indoor med-high bite clay, we use Ions or Typo in Super Soft, and use a 1.3mm front sway (especially when the track is small and tight for more steering) If you like a lot of steering use the same compound front and rear. Super Soft. If you like a more neutral car, you can run soft up front.

Outdoors prefers the 1.5mm sway. If you run on 8th scale type tracks, sometimes the 1.7mm front sway is nice and tames the car down. Again, same compound if you like steering, or one step harder in front or a more neutral car. It just makes it easier for those drivers who don't like so much steering to be able to run the same suspension package. So if I was to test my teammates car, I just throw my tires on that I like and check if any of his settings are off.







http://www.sidsraceway.com/event-pictures/

platgof

iTrader: (4)

To prevent roll over, make sure the springs up front are not to soft. If the front end is soft, it will roll under during a turn, and take the rear with it. The new pistons will help a lot as well, using the 2 hole 1.6 and 1.7 pistons to stabilize the front end. It is very hard to roll a car with these pistons as they provide pack, or resistance to sudden jolts. The pistons are easily the best upgrade, especially for the price. Now if they would roll the top of them for a quicker return?

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Well I do expect things to break at high speed but my tower broke on the slowest corner of the track

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@Dino: I'm currently experimenting with a similar idea of tire compounds. Silver and Gold compound Dirt webs. Gold up front on the 4WD and silver in the rear. I often feel like the car has a bit too much steering up front so this does seem to calm it down a bit. It was a bit hard to tell because the tires took a bit to break in and the rear wasn't totally locked down. I think next time out will be solid. I'll be able to compare next to my ions as well. Best lap times I could get in my last practice session at OCRC were in the 20.5 second range, while I watched hartson run 18.5 second lap times as a reference not that I'm at his level!

Dino_D

The 410 is a little bit nose heavy, hence the steering. On high bite its awesome, on low bite, you need to add more weight in the rear with the brass skid to balance it out. Hence the reason either to use the 21 caster blocks or 1 step harder front tires. Meanwhile the latest trend is going shorties. Would like to see a new chassis similar to the worlds where you can put the short and motor in the rear. It will help make the car lighter and more nimble.

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Got that!! I've been testing it out for a few months now...

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@Dino: I agree. i've been running the rear tresrey 30g under diff weight for quite a while. This along with the 21 castor blocks has really made the car easier to drive.

Dino_D

It looks great.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@Bman! Nice! So is that a longer chassis on both the 3 diff "v5" and the shorty "v5" ??

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Thanks!

Yes longer chassis. +10 I believe. It's been a year now since I made the chassis. It's the same chassis except the shorty chassis has a few extra screw holes.

vito

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1527048814178644

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Also the weights of my two cars, saddle @ 1705g and the shorty version @ 1533g I believe this is without tires.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Another bad day at the track I broke the front bulkheads and worse all the online shops are out of stock till early December and I had a major race this month