thefan

iTrader: (3)

No your not nuts the 410 does have plenty of steering the problem is when running on outdoor dusty tracks there is too much steering or not enough rear grip thats when you need a front sway bar and possibly add weight to the back to balance the front to rear traction

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

The 2-Way slipper does allow for independent slip/bite points. I run the original slipper as it does the job just fine for me thus far and my car is, as they say… DIALED.

When people feel they need additional slippage in the rear, they drill 4 to 6 holes on the rear pad to allow a bit more slip via reducing overall surface material. Anyone with experience with the 2-Way Slipper, Please help this gentleman out.

In any event, here's a tutorial on the 2-wau slipper that might help you: http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...er_Build_Guide

Dino_D

Glad you like it. As I was saying you need a harder front tire to tame the car with 17 caster blocks but if you found a good balance that's great. You can try the other blocks, but you will find it does what RCjunky said. Probably better if the track gets slippery or loose to have the 19 or 21 as a de-tuning steering option.

Dal

iTrader: (4)

thanks very much

Dal

iTrader: (4)

G'day Mate, heres a simple explanation, for further setup info, go to the JQ site and download his setup guide, The Guide it is spot on, even though its for nitro it is all relevant to EP10.
more caster will make the car easier to drive on a bumpy track, it will take away steering on corner entry, but on accellerating, it will give more steering, as the front lifts up, (on throttle) and you are still steering, it will give more turning than having less caster.
I been driving 410 for 5 years, yes lots of steering, I generally run heavy front sway and shocks and diff 15000wt, rear diff 3000.

Dino_D

Okay let me explain. The original slipper v3 or older is like any other slipper. Its a fixed axle sandwiched with 2 pads. Whether you drill holes or not or change pads, the unit is still locked (meaning the front and rear slip at the same rate). You can't adjust bias. You can't do this on the AE or Xray either.
Just try holding the rear wheels and press the throttle, either all the 4 wheels spin or they slip.

The v4 slipper (2 way) - allows independent axle slip. I can hold the rear wheels and the front will spin under throttle or the other way around, hence its 2 way. Each pad controls each end. Unlike the previous version, where both pad control the entire slip. You still set the slipper the same as the older v3 method. Given the same pads the slip will be the same. The difference is when you change the surface area via holes or pad material, hence you can make one slip more than the other thus simulating a center diff without all that extra weight. However the difference is it will still slip independently transferring power to the pad with the most friction first. A center diff will not slip and allow the transfer of power, but its gonna be harder on your drive train (center axles) without some transmission slip.

Either change pads for a greater bias, or drill holes for a slight bias change. You will find that when running on low to med bite tracks, having the rear slip a bit more than the front will allow you to come out of a corner straight like an arrow. It doesn't get sideways or a handful under power. On high bite you kinda want equal slip or more towards the rear. Remember the tension on the center diff controls overall slip and you always want it to slip a few feet from a stand still. Bias is controlled via the holes.

Low grip to Med, I drill 6x to 8x 2mm holes only on the rear pad. More holes for lower grip. Less holes for higher grip. This makes the car have more front bias having the front pull the car around. Med grip - 4x 2mm holes. High grip no holes for equal power. You can also experiment with 4 holes on the front pad and no holes in the rear pad on high bite ozite carpet. This makes the car more rear power bias allowing you to use the backend to slide or power the car thru turns.

Fuzzchop

iTrader: (18)

ran the car over the weekend with doing the 21 blocks and upping the front oil and i also did the hols in the rear pad and let me just say the car was so much better, most definitley calmed the car down, and smoothed the steering out so much thanks for the help dino

tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

Now I might just have to try it now. LOL. I might do the 19 with a harder front tire. we need more wheeler's on Friday's!

Dino_D

Too bad i live so far away from your track.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Durango needs a Dino travel budget.

Anyone here ever raced at Yatabe arena?

Dino_D

I ain't a pro driver. Just mainly a setup guy. My other team mates are faster than me. Its just my cars are setup well that allows me to do well at the races. A easy to drive car, you make less mistakes and still go fast.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

+1 for using a harder front tire. I've just tested this at SCVRC and also at LRH. I switched from Gold Dirtwebs and Silver Dirt Webs in the rear to a set of panther clay tires all around and this setups definitely makes the car a little more grabby and twitchy. I'll be picking up a couple of sets of harder fronts now. My next set will probably be electrons in MC up front with M4 in the rear.

I'm also running the 21 degree blocks. I could see the 19 and the harder tire being a good setup. Just haven't had a chance to try that combo.

tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

I still have to put a sway bar on the front yet. I have them for the rear. I have the 17 blocks but my track is medium bite. If I go to a high bite track I may go nuts LOL. It is easy to drive though. I am getting some 19 blocks and see how that goes. I run Dino's setups on everything with a few tweaks here and there but not much. Took me to the top!

likea45

iTrader: (2)

I have an issue with my dex410. It started its life as 410r kit I boight. I've replaced nearly everything to the V4 specs including tons of exotek and dingo hop ups. I love the car but my current issue is with the steering set up. I just cannot get the steering to stay consistent. It seems like I adjust the toe angle and get everything set and then the buggy pulls hard left or right. I noticed today that the steering when disengaged from the servo felt tight. I loosend the screws above the steering bearings on either side and it helped the binding but my servo is still having an issue bringing it to center once turned in a direction. For instance if I turn hard left and then let go of the wheel it aligns it cose but not exactly center and is enough for the car to drift off course. I am using the v4 19 degree blocks up front. The only other mod is the aluminum servo saver. Any advice or help here would be appreciated. I love the car when it's on but I'm at my whits end here and need a solution.

Dino_D

Check that you have shims on the bearings for the steering rack. Second, check the bolts that go into the bushings for your steering knuckles. Maybe some dirt or thread lock on it. Also check your ballcups if its tight or not.