tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

how important is it on the buggy to run the rear metal diff hoop? I broke my first plastic one on my SCT and I have the metal one on the buggy. I was thinking of switching them and putting the metal on on the SCT and the platic one back on the buggy. It's been like 5 months of racing and first time I broke a diff hoop. TY

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Unreal, I had the same thing happen to me at the track. I just happened to have a spare plastic diff ring, so I pulled the aluminum one from the Dex and put it on the DESC, and then the spare plastic one on the Dex. There is a lot more force coming from a DESC410 than the Dex410, so I am going to leave them that way and see how long it lasts. the aluminum one is definitely needed on the DESC though. I really like the aluminum as there is more battery clearance.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Plastic is fine on the buggy, myself and a teammate have never broken one

tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

Thanks. I'll swap it to the SCT and put the plastic one back on the buggy. I do have the new hardened diff cases and diff hoops. So they might be stronger.

Dino, Another home run on the setup!!!! WOW! I actually kept the 17 degree hubs as I have the 19's on order. I am using a clay front tire and ss rear. Car is on rails. I have Soft fronts on order to see how that does. Steering on this thing is amazing. I'm running a LRP x20 5.5t geared at 21/87. Comes off at 140ish. This buggy screams LOL.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I also had a good night racing, and it handled great with the 2 hole pistons front and rear. I just picked up a Gen 2 esc for it, and will install an 8.5 motor, as I am running a 10.5 right now. Gearing is 22/87.

strodedawg

iTrader: (81)

can anyone recommend a starting pinion for a 8.5?

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Just keep an eye on ESC temps running it with an 8.5 with the gen2, the RSX is much safer.

Gearing with an 8.5, I have a 23 with eryn mild timing, could run 24-25 in blinky mode. Start with a 23 on the safe side and gear up if needed

strodedawg

iTrader: (81)

thank you

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I plan on staying with the 22 pinion as it is a small indoor track, very tight. I am using a 22 pinion on a 10.5 and no problems at all temp wise.

Dal

iTrader: (4)

On the V4, can anyone explain or direct me to where the info is, about the 2 way slipper, I thought the front and rear could be set seperately at different tensions, but they cant, they can only slip independently of each other.
They always have the same tension, was very misleading by the Team Ranga

frankf

iTrader: (4)

87/22 is way undergeared for a 10.5 so it shouldn't get hot I would throw some boost into it to increase acceleration

Sodakota

Well u can except u have to buy more pads. Or if u are sure u want them to be different what u do is drill holes into them. More holes=less surface area. Less surface area=less friction which causes that pad to slip sooner. What I did was got another set drilled 4 holes in one and 6 into the other for diffrent amounts of slip.

Oh and on a side note I finally have to change an arm. Last week I let another driver race my car and he broke it for me haha. Well I guess it's not bullet proof after all.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

I had a bad run of broken parts I boiled everything plastic and have not broken a thing since, could be a coincidence but you got nothing to lose but time

tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

I must be nuts. I'm not running a front sway bar. 17 castor blocks but Clay fronts and SS rears. Car is off the hook! There's so much steering it's unbelievable. I ran the second fastest times on our current layout and was 1 second away from the fastest. medium bite clay indoor. what do the 19 or 21 actually do? I kind of like the nimbleness of the car. I am running some toe out. dino's setup minus the front sway, castor blocks, and slipper pad holes and -2 camber all the way around.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

the blocks smooth it out, less steering on entry and exit