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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-26-2015, 02:54 PM
  #18046  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
21 degree front castor blocks are a must. Along with the rear weight set and aluminum servo horn and lower saver. Good luck!!
If you don't want to buy 21 caster blocks, run one step harder in compound for your front tire.

Also you may want to get HPI vorza shock protectors to protect your front shock towers.

And a good tire for those loose dusty loamy track would be a proline blockade in soft compound. They dig in well and last a while.

AKA impacts, JConcepts Double Ds are good too.

Front tires - JC reflex, or double D or impacts are good in the front. If the track is abrasive then Proline Scrubs x2 compounds are a good choice
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Old 08-26-2015, 05:25 PM
  #18047  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
21 degree front castor blocks are a must. Along with the rear weight set and aluminum servo horn and lower saver. Good luck!!
Thanks for the info my friend. Rear weight skid or the gear weighted gear box inserts?
Is anyone modifying their V4 with a center gear diff?

Thanks again
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:20 PM
  #18048  
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Anybody know where I can find a CF chassis?
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:25 PM
  #18049  
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The V5 is the only 410 to feature a gear diff.

As for gear diffs in general I am not impressed nor am I a fan. It's either on power all the time or not at all so when you accelerate you have to be extremely precise and the whole theory about different viscosities in the center diff mimicking a slipper, I haven't seen any evidence of that.

I switched to a center diff car and I can say with all certainty Betrice slipper is far superior in every respect . These missiles are traveling at 400+ scale miles per hour in the brutal application of power is not an advantage over A slipper because a slipper allows you to adjust the application of torque and power to suit the requirements of most every track and it takes all of 30 seconds as opposed to 10 minutes or more with the center with the center of your death diff. Wow I can drive my g wow I can drive my Gear diff Wheeler almost as fast as my 410, it takes a lot more work where as before 10 is smoother and easier to drive which equates to less stressful as well.

for me it's give me a slipper or give me death.

As for the portends rear weight, yes you want the skid plate is that place is the wait at the lowest point possible, thereby maintaining the lowest center of gravity.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:45 PM
  #18050  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
The V5 is the only 410 to feature a gear diff.

As for gear diffs in general I am not impressed nor am I a fan. It's either on power all the time or not at all so when you accelerate you have to be extremely precise and the whole theory about different viscosities in the center diff mimicking a slipper, I haven't seen any evidence of that.

I switched to a center diff car and I can say with all certainty Betrice slipper is far superior in every respect . These missiles are traveling at 400+ scale miles per hour in the brutal application of power is not an advantage over A slipper because a slipper allows you to adjust the application of torque and power to suit the requirements of most every track and it takes all of 30 seconds as opposed to 10 minutes or more with the center with the center of your death diff. Wow I can drive my g wow I can drive my Gear diff Wheeler almost as fast as my 410, it takes a lot more work where as before 10 is smoother and easier to drive which equates to less stressful as well.

for me it's give me a slipper or give me death.

As for the portends rear weight, yes you want the skid plate is that place is the wait at the lowest point possible, thereby maintaining the lowest center of gravity.

Thanks Incubus much appreciated brudda! Your thoughts are relalistic. Whew I put a center gear diff in my XB4 the only way I could obtain super snap was to run 500k, thus essentially making it a heavy slipper. As you mentioned mentioned tuning a center gear diff is not the quickest tune unlike a slipper being a pit stop adjustment.

Thanks again you have definetly helped erased any thoughts of a CGDiff.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:20 AM
  #18051  
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WOW! Super impressed! I took mine out to the track last night for it's maiden voyage and some test and tune. The only upgrades I did to it during the build was the 30g rear skid weight, aluminum servo saver arm and aluminum hexes. Out of the box set up with a 22mm ride height front and rear. The track is a med/high traction dirt with a light dusty loam.

This thing was AWESOME!

I did go up two spring weights in the front and one in the rear. The suspension was just too soft. After that the car was much more stable and planted. Can't wait to get some more wheel time on it.

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Old 08-27-2015, 10:21 AM
  #18052  
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Holy crap. Was stuck in traffic on my drive home and was dictating that post. LOL
So putrid how text to speech mangles our words.

I'll re-type to clarify so it reads properly.


The V5 is the only 410 to feature a gear diff.

As for gear diffs in general I am not impressed nor am I a fan. It's either on power all the time or not at all so when you accelerate you have to be extremely precise and the whole theory about different viscosities in the center diff mimicking a slipper, I haven't seen any evidence of that.

I switched to a center diff car and I can say with all certainty that a slipper is far superior in every respect . These missiles are traveling at 400+ scale miles per hour with the brutal and instant application of power is not an advantage over A slipper because a slipper allows you to adjust the application of torque and power to suit the requirements of most every track and it takes all of 30 seconds as opposed to 10 minutes or more with a center gear diff. While I can drive my Gear diff Wheeler almost as fast as my 410, it takes a lot more work than with the 410 because the 410 is smoother and easier to drive which equates to a less stressful experience as well.

For me it's give me a slipper or give me death.

As for the 410's rear weight, yes you want the skid plate is that places the weight at the lowest point possible, thereby maintaining the lowest center of gravity.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:42 AM
  #18053  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Holy crap. Was stuck in traffic on my drive home and was dictating that post. LOL
So putrid how text to speech mangles our words.

I'll re-type to clarify so it reads properly.


The V5 is the only 410 to feature a gear diff.

As for gear diffs in general I am not impressed nor am I a fan. It's either on power all the time or not at all so when you accelerate you have to be extremely precise and the whole theory about different viscosities in the center diff mimicking a slipper, I haven't seen any evidence of that.

I switched to a center diff car and I can say with all certainty that a slipper is far superior in every respect . These missiles are traveling at 400+ scale miles per hour with the brutal and instant application of power is not an advantage over A slipper because a slipper allows you to adjust the application of torque and power to suit the requirements of most every track and it takes all of 30 seconds as opposed to 10 minutes or more with a center gear diff. While I can drive my Gear diff Wheeler almost as fast as my 410, it takes a lot more work than with the 410 because the 410 is smoother and easier to drive which equates to a less stressful experience as well.

For me it's give me a slipper or give me death.

As for the 410's rear weight, yes you want the skid plate is that places the weight at the lowest point possible, thereby maintaining the lowest center of gravity.

No Problem, I cant stand voice command either as anything I dictate comes out scrambled.

I was unaware there was a V5 410. Is that a factory version or owners mod.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:43 AM
  #18054  
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Originally Posted by hackersmovie
WOW! Super impressed! I took mine out to the track last night for it's maiden voyage and some test and tune. The only upgrades I did to it during the build was the 30g rear skid weight, aluminum servo saver arm and aluminum hexes. Out of the box set up with a 22mm ride height front and rear. The track is a med/high traction dirt with a light dusty loam.

This thing was AWESOME!

I did go up two spring weights in the front and one in the rear. The suspension was just too soft. After that the car was much more stable and planted. Can't wait to get some more wheel time on it.

Looks great! nice to here you are more than pleased.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:47 AM
  #18055  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
If you don't want to buy 21 caster blocks, run one step harder in compound for your front tire.

Also you may want to get HPI vorza shock protectors to protect your front shock towers.

And a good tire for those loose dusty loamy track would be a proline blockade in soft compound. They dig in well and last a while.

AKA impacts, JConcepts Double Ds are good too.

Front tires - JC reflex, or double D or impacts are good in the front. If the track is abrasive then Proline Scrubs x2 compounds are a good choice

I will pick up the 21 degree caster blocks. when running the 21 degree caster blocks does that require upgraded front drive shafts? Or do the 21 degree caster blocks work better with the stock V4 front drive shafts?

Thanks for the help my friend.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:48 AM
  #18056  
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the V5 is an aftermarket variant made by B-man. It's posted up a bunch several hundred pages back but you have to look. Might be even better to type in DEX410B5 to find pages on it in this thread more easily.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...read-1027.html
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:36 AM
  #18057  
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Originally Posted by Norse
I will pick up the 21 degree caster blocks. when running the 21 degree caster blocks does that require upgraded front drive shafts? Or do the 21 degree caster blocks work better with the stock V4 front drive shafts?

Thanks for the help my friend.
The front blocks only change steering and suspension geometry to make it super stable and smoother but nothing else changes.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:04 PM
  #18058  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
The front blocks only change steering and suspension geometry to make it super stable and smoother but nothing else changes.
Thanks Incubus!


Much appreciated brudda.
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:04 AM
  #18059  
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Any thoughts on aftermarket bearings? ACER, AVID, or BOCA I have heard they are all great bearings. BOCA's seem a little pricey. ACER ceramic V4 kits are on sale for $64.

Any suggestions is greatly appreciated
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:52 AM
  #18060  
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Originally Posted by Norse
Any thoughts on aftermarket bearings? ACER, AVID, or BOCA I have heard they are all great bearings. BOCA's seem a little pricey. ACER ceramic V4 kits are on sale for $64.

Any suggestions is greatly appreciated
I run the Acer Ceramic set. Been awesome. Can't beat the price and free shipping !
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