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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-05-2015, 09:01 PM
  #17446  
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Default Newb to the DEX410, I have a few questions

So I decided to give 1:10 scale another go. I picked up a used DEX410v3.
This is what I have so for:
Tekin Gen 1 RSPro
LRP 8.5
AE 1015 servo
I race at a rough, loose, outdoor, 1:8 scale track
I need a base setup:
Pinion
Shocks
Diffs
etc...

Also, what spare parts do I need to stock.

Thank you,
E

Last edited by mebolson; 01-05-2015 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:49 AM
  #17447  
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Has anyone tried the Arrowmax front towers? Cheap!
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:37 AM
  #17448  
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Originally Posted by mebolson
I need a base setup:
Pinion
Shocks
Diffs
etc...

Also, what spare parts do I need to stock.

Thank you,
E
I'm running 87/22
45 / dk blue
30 / lt blue
7/3 diffs

You'll need a set of front arms (they are universal left to right)
and a set of rears. when you really hammer something, the hinge pins bend while the arms break so... have a set of those. I boil the arms and don't break them often, but it does happen.
Keep a spare spur or two... On a big track w big jumps the motor can move. I don't go through much else. I have broken a CF front tower, but I run a lot and I crash hard.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:55 AM
  #17449  
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Use the set up I linked a page back.
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:16 PM
  #17450  
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Originally Posted by mebolson
So I decided to give 1:10 scale another go. I picked up a used DEX410v3.
This is what I have so for:
Tekin Gen 1 RSPro
LRP 8.5
AE 1015 servo
I race at a rough, loose, outdoor, 1:8 scale track
I need a base setup:
Pinion
Shocks
Diffs
etc...

Also, what spare parts do I need to stock.

Thank you,
E
Two hole pistons would be a must, the big bore dimec.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:07 PM
  #17451  
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Kind of a general question. I know that by drilling holes in the slipper pads affects power transfer front or rear. Would this also affect braking bias? Or is there only enough force to get the slipper to slip while on power?
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:32 AM
  #17452  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
Kind of a general question. I know that by drilling holes in the slipper pads affects power transfer front or rear. Would this also affect braking bias? Or is there only enough force to get the slipper to slip while on power?
Very good question you raised.

Most of the time, people drill out the rear pad, to make the rear pad slip more and give the car a more front bias under power. Its like running a lighter center fluid. Assuming this is what you have done.

Best case scenario
Assuming that you have set up the slipper correctly to allow it to slip about 2-4 feet from a stand still depending on surface (med to high grip 2-3 feet, low grip 3-4 feet), and assuming that under braking you have set the ATL properly so that the tires don't lock under braking, then no there shouldn't be enough force to cause the pads to slip under braking.

Slipper set tight with rear pads drilled and ATL brakes at max.
Even if you locked up the slipper a lot more, where only the rear pads are drilled, thus if it were to slip, only the rear would slip - under braking most of the force is applied to the front tire, and the rear would be very light with minimal weight on it. Due to most of the weight being unloaded to the front, no, the rear will not slip, if anything, the front tires will lock which will lift the rear tires off the ground which can cause you to wipe/spin out on corner entry or break traction enough to slide the front tires, which will end up making your car push thru a turn under braking.

Slipper set loose and ATL brakes at max.
If the slipper is loose, still under braking more force is applied to the front tire than the rear. So if the slipper was to slip, the front would slip less than the rear, but since most of the force under braking is applied to the front tires, it should balance out and the back will slip more than the front but just enough not to lock the rear tires under braking thus minimizing the chance of a spin.
Problem is if the slipper is set too loose, then it becomes difficult to clear jumps.

I normally don't like setting max ATL with a loose slipper as I find it inconsistent. Cause the slipper will slip when transitioning from top speed to a lower speed, but at the instance the slipper stops slipping as the speed and forces slow down and the tires break traction from the surface and slides, the car develops a push problem. Then again most people won't have the slipper set too loose anyways. I always find a majority of people have the slipper too tight and ATL set too high.

I rather set the ATL to ensure I can come into a corner without locking my tires which will allow me more control of the car during entry. Also as traction could decrease during the run, or the track gets blown out, I can further reduce my ATL brake settings during the course of the race. I normally test my brakes and set my ATL coming off the main straight before each round of the race. Remember the slipper should only slip between 2-4 feet on any track.

Last edited by Dino_D; 01-07-2015 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:56 AM
  #17453  
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Ok but what if u have the drilled pads in the front. I'm finding that my front tires are wearing at a much faster rate than my rears. My thinking is that if I put a drilled pad in front sure I'll lose a little traction up front but also save my tires a little.
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Old 01-07-2015, 02:17 PM
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Speaking of the v4 slipper mine gets hot after a run similar to the motor temps yet I can still spin the tires is there a measurement from the nut to the end it should be at to see if im to loose or not
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Old 01-07-2015, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
Ok but what if u have the drilled pads in the front. I'm finding that my front tires are wearing at a much faster rate than my rears. My thinking is that if I put a drilled pad in front sure I'll lose a little traction up front but also save my tires a little.
Ah, front pad drilled gives more rear push than front pull on acceleration, like running a heavy center diff. But I find that normally makes the car more nervous on exit. As if you lay the power down on exit the back end skates and slides around. While running drill pads on rear allows the front wheels to pull the car out of the turns. If the grip is high bite, I normally run equal pads front and rear. I hardly ever run front drilled except on carpet or astro. when the grip is super high.

Anyhow, back to front drilled pad. Under braking it should equalize or even the braking power on entry from high to mid speed, but once you hit low speed, the slipper won't slip anyways. What is the tension of your slipper? How far does it slip on acceleration? Cause under braking the front should technically slip 2-3 ft before it engages again.

Is your ATL turned up way too high? Is your slipper set too tight? I would try to adjust your ATL brakes so that you can brake without locking either the front or rear tires. That would give you maximum braking without wearing out the tires or scrubbing speed in a turn causing the car to push. And normally I set the slipper to slip a few feet so it doesn't lit the tires on acceleration.
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Old 01-07-2015, 02:31 PM
  #17456  
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Originally Posted by frankf
Speaking of the v4 slipper mine gets hot after a run similar to the motor temps yet I can still spin the tires is there a measurement from the nut to the end it should be at to see if im to loose or not
It shouldn't get that hot unless it's already worn or glazed. Take out the pads and clean it with motor spray to remove the glazing. The adjustment nut should be on the 4th line. I can snap a photo later, but set it so it slips a few feet. Another thing is to try the Associated B4 pads, they are less likely to glaze over and are slightly thicker than the stock durango pads.
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:59 PM
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Here's the pic of my shorty setup with the holder cut down the middle to allow pack fitting/removal without removing the spur.
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-p9130378.jpg  
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Old 01-07-2015, 06:13 PM
  #17458  
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I do have my brake power limited, even got "abs" or pulse brake function on esc. I also run on carpet so traction is not an issue. I guess I'll just try to make it to the track early and try it out. I have some pads with 4&6 holes drilled out.

Oh and on a side note the dual shorty setup was ok but made the rear slid out on sweepers. Kinda felt like a rm 2wd. I got the runtime I was after but in the end I ended up going back to saddles for now.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:08 PM
  #17459  
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I just finished getting my Dex ready for Saturday, as we are starting the Winter Series Point Race. I broke one of my shocks and had to use Desc210 front shocks. They are taller and standing the front end up some. I am using limiters and the highest mounting points to make do. I will not race it if it is hard to control.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by platgof
I just finished getting my Dex ready for Saturday, as we are starting the Winter Series Point Race. I broke one of my shocks and had to use Desc210 front shocks. They are taller and standing the front end up some. I am using limiters and the highest mounting points to make do. I will not race it if it is hard to control.
im assuming shock shaft ? if you broke the shock body that is one hell of a crash
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