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Old 11-04-2014, 04:11 AM
  #17131  
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Originally Posted by Badger5
The statement does say that the pro race team will be dissolved, so this explains why Ryan Lutz has left but what about Jorn Neumann and Gerd Strange?
Thx, than i understood it right!
Yes, to the question of Jon and Gerd and all the other pro drivers, it will be very interesting to see, how this strategy will go on!?
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:33 PM
  #17132  
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Originally Posted by micholix
Thx, than i understood it right!
Yes, to the question of Jon and Gerd and all the other pro drivers, it will be very interesting to see, how this strategy will go on!?
I am wondering about the EOS series. Didn't that series just start? What's Durango's plan? They dominated the series for years.
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:11 PM
  #17133  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
I am wondering about the EOS series. Didn't that series just start? What's Durango's plan? They dominated the series for years.
Hi Dino,

Yes right, the EOS just started, two weeks ago!
It will be interesting, how that is going on?

But i have a positive fealing about Team Durango and there future plans!
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:37 AM
  #17134  
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Eos has started this year but team durango is not sponsor of the event.
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:08 PM
  #17135  
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Had my first drive of the v4 was surprised just how far it can jump, on lap 3 the rear arm broke and it wasn't a bad landing either; after replacing that I rolled over on a corner and the front tower broke, could not believe how easy it broke; so my first outing was very disappointing I didn't even cycle 1 battery pack through it. Is it worth boiling the suspension arms?
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:42 PM
  #17136  
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That is the beef with these, they break easily.I put aluminum towers on mine to be safe. I also had to put the Dimec cups on as well, the old style pop off to easily.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:21 PM
  #17137  
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Damn that's some bad luck. IVe had been he v4 since they came out and have only broke 1 front bulkhead the plastic se co saver and one lower shock cap.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:27 PM
  #17138  
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That sucks. I've had very good luck with mine too. Only broke 2 front arms but I hit a solid 50lb weight so it was expected. Other than that I think there quite strong.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:45 PM
  #17139  
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1. Broke both front bulkheads where the shock tower mounts to the bulkheads. ( edit ) NOW 2x
2. Stripped out the steering drag link ball cups from the long grub screw. 2x
3. Stripped out a camber link end link.

All of this was on two different race days.

None of the crashes were all that serious. The drag link just stripped from landing a jump out of shape. Since then I've replaced it and used medium ca on the treads to help keep it from pulling out. I may loosen up my servo saver just a bit.

So far I'm happy with the cars handling, efficiency and consistency. Other than a few shake down problems I think its a great car. My fast lap is on par with our local fast guys so I think once I have some time with the car it'll keep me up front.

Last edited by evostyle; 11-08-2014 at 05:47 AM.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:53 PM
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Yeah it was very annoying considering it took me 3 weeks to build it coz of lack of time and then I had a day off work to spend all day at the track and didn't get to drain one lipo through it. I find it rolls over on itself alot would putting the swaybars on help?
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:24 PM
  #17141  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Yeah it was very annoying considering it took me 3 weeks to build it coz of lack of time and then I had a day off work to spend all day at the track and didn't get to drain one lipo through it. I find it rolls over on itself alot would putting the swaybars on help?
With stock setup mine was twitchy, bouncy and liked to roll on our high grip bumpy clay indoor. I went to smaller holed shock pistons, lowered ride height, got 1° toe in rear hubs, put on the side weights. Better. Still working on it.

I meant to bring this up for other folks opinions as well.

Last edited by SamuraiJack; 11-06-2014 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:48 PM
  #17142  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Yeah it was very annoying considering it took me 3 weeks to build it coz of lack of time and then I had a day off work to spend all day at the track and didn't get to drain one lipo through it. I find it rolls over on itself alot would putting the swaybars on help?
Try running the setup I have at PetitRc.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...Raceway201406/

I use the rear brass weight. Not the side weights. Plus 1 degree rear hubs

It works pretty well. You need the sway bars to stop it from rolling too much, and stiffer oil weights.
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:28 AM
  #17143  
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I am using your setup dino minus the swaybars and 1deg hubs which I have ordered; for some reason my kit came with 1.5mm bars front 1.3mm rear, I did go lighter on the shocks though maybe ill revisit your shock setup if I can keep the buggy in one piece
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:01 AM
  #17144  
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copy the set up to a T, its hooked up. I did go down to 5k front diff oil and found it easier to drive on power though. All the joys of having 2 complete ready to go sets of diffs
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:02 AM
  #17145  
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Originally Posted by thefan
I am using your setup dino minus the swaybars and 1deg hubs which I have ordered; for some reason my kit came with 1.5mm bars front 1.3mm rear, I did go lighter on the shocks though maybe ill revisit your shock setup if I can keep the buggy in one piece
The sway bar make a big difference.
As for the arms. I do boiled mine for 5 mins, and I haven't broke a arm yet all yet, knock on wood. However, the front shock tower I agree. I busted 2 of them when down siding a ramp. So what I did was put the HPI shock protectors on and I haven't broke a front shock tower since then. I think there are just too many holes on the tower and it snaps where the holes are. So the shock protectors give it more strength
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