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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-27-2014, 04:07 AM
  #17101  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I know the search isn't always the best and I understand where you are coming from...wanting to be exactly stock width. I am using the Losi 22-4 EVO front wheels. I think the KYO is the same as the Losi. Haven't measured it myself.

I can measure the width of the car with each type of wheels to compare, EVO and stock Durango. Are you looking for total width with the wheels and tires? is the purpose for ROAR or SPEC class racing legality? I can try and compensate for the overlap in the tires or I could measure from hex to hex, whichever you would prefer. I think I measured before when I first got my EVO wheels and the difference was negligible.
Originally Posted by 13Maschine
These ones are what I use in the rear because I can adjust the rear track depending on which pair you use. http://www.amain.com/Avid-RC-B41-12m...ex-Set/p241354 Up front I use the shumacher K1 hexes for 12mm.

I haven't found a front 12mm clamping hex that fits yet. I'm interested to see if someone else can.

Perhaps someone can sticky this info for later review as this is a common question it seems?

I've done some testing of EVO vs standard Durango wheels. I have NOT found the EVO to be consistently faster. It seems similar. I also wonder if they would hold up and stay true as well in a hard crash as they are a bit less rigid in design. We have a discussion on this going on over in my tire tech talk forum. Personally I prefer to use the 14mm hexes from Spec R or Tresrey 14mm clamping. Then regular Durango wheels.

Hope that helps. I'll try to upload pics later.
That's good info. Thank you.

I only considered running 12mm hex so I can try some AKA Chainlink tires. Plus I thought the taller wheels would be more responsive with the shorter sidewall when on a high bite track.

If they just made a 14mm hex EVO wheel this discussion would be done. I think the 14mm hex and Durango wheel is a better option, other than not being able to use "evo" tires. The AKA chain links only come in this taller ID size.

I like the larger surface area that 14mm hexes provide. I think this helps keep the wheels truer on the hex and less chances of the wheel wobbling. Plus the Durango wheels are truer and more durable than most manufactures.

For now I decided to go with a set of Proline Electrons on stock wheels. Close enough to an AKA chain link just with a taller sidewall.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:40 AM
  #17102  
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Originally Posted by evostyle
That's good info. Thank you.

I only considered running 12mm hex so I can try some AKA Chainlink tires. Plus I thought the taller wheels would be more responsive with the shorter sidewall when on a high bite track.

If they just made a 14mm hex EVO wheel this discussion would be done. I think the 14mm hex and Durango wheel is a better option, other than not being able to use "evo" tires. The AKA chain links only come in this taller ID size.

I like the larger surface area that 14mm hexes provide. I think this helps keep the wheels truer on the hex and less chances of the wheel wobbling. Plus the Durango wheels are truer and more durable than most manufactures.

For now I decided to go with a set of Proline Electrons on stock wheels. Close enough to an AKA chain link just with a taller sidewall.
Why don't you use the EVO adapters?


It allows you to put on EVO rims on the stock durango rims.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:59 AM
  #17103  
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Originally Posted by thefan
On a side note Dino I find your shock setup a little on the firm side, from the drop test the chassis doesn't compress and rebound at all, I will try 1.6x2 35wt f and 1.5x3 30wt r

Whats the temp that you are racing at?
Are you using the low friction o-rings? Blue or Purple?
If you use the stock orange o-rings, the shock settings need to be different as it wont compress due to the friction so you need to go much lighter.

This is what I use using blue or purple o-rings and stock springs.
Hot summer day +30C
2x1.6 42wt Front
2x1.7 32wt Rear

Mild summer 25C - 40F/30R

Spring or fall under 20C - 37F/27R

Cool temps 10-15C - 35F/25R

Never tested below 10C.

Let me know, as temps changes how the shocks work. I can help fine tune it for you.
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Old 10-27-2014, 12:37 PM
  #17104  
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It was 28c and I had 40/30 f/r it's a v4 buggy so purple orings I never drove it at the track but using the balance tuning method I couldn't get it to compress anywhere near the table
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:10 PM
  #17105  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Why don't you use the EVO adapters?


It allows you to put on EVO rims on the stock durango rims.
Huh? o.O

LOL
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:10 PM
  #17106  
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I'm pretty sure he meant to say put the EVO tires on regular wheels.
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:58 PM
  #17107  
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Default Stronger suspension arms for racing

Just a quick post. We are developing stronger arms intended for those that push their cars to the limit or just have bad luck breaking them during a race.

Don't want to clutter this thread so post your feedback on this one

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13623668-post717.html

Regards,
Ron
Team GRID

Last edited by Team Grid RC; 10-28-2014 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:05 AM
  #17108  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I'm pretty sure he meant to say put the EVO tires on regular wheels.
Yeah.. That's what I meant.
Also the weight of the extra conversion kit makes the tire slightly heavier vs a stock EVO rim. Just so you know. So basically it helps the car on a track with slightly lower temps and med traction as well on bumpy tracks. If the track is smooth and very high grip, it would be better to use the EVO rim. Less rotating mass. Let's hope they come out with them soon.
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:47 AM
  #17109  
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Yeah, I'm all for a 14mm EVO wheel.
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:27 PM
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I just ordered the plastic gears and Dimec cups. It is very noisy and I hope this helps. I am thinking of using 7k, 10k, and 5k in the diffs, would this work? If I can get it to where it is reliable, as in the cups stay on, then I might get serious about upgrading it. The handling is amazing at times, very responsive, but I also hear a lot of criticism about reliability with this buggy. It has been by far the hardest one I have ever dealt with, but also the fastest.
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:13 PM
  #17111  
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I haven't used the Durango cups yet, but most say they are great. As long as you don't pop them on and off during maintanence. Instead unscrew the ball stud. As an alternative I use the lunsford set of ball studs and ball cups. They are also great. I would use the Durango units if I had titanium ball studs that fit. I haven't looked for a set yet. Suggestions from anyone??
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:14 PM
  #17112  
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Calling all 4 Wheel buggy drivers in SoCal, lets do a meet up at a local track or two. get a big class going on race day. WHo's in!??? PM to keep the thread clean. Please!
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Old 11-01-2014, 01:53 AM
  #17113  
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just a vid share, of my Ranga, V1 passing a losi in the air, looks good, check it out, green and white is the ranga.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuTG...Izhp8WsMvvM9wQ
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Old 11-01-2014, 04:19 AM
  #17114  
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Originally Posted by platgof
I just ordered the plastic gears and Dimec cups. It is very noisy and I hope this helps. I am thinking of using 7k, 10k, and 5k in the diffs, would this work? If I can get it to where it is reliable, as in the cups stay on, then I might get serious about upgrading it. The handling is amazing at times, very responsive, but I also hear a lot of criticism about reliability with this buggy. It has been by far the hardest one I have ever dealt with, but also the fastest.

Get the Lunsford turnbuckle and ball stud kit, that will sort out any problems with popping off, it might not be cheap, but it works.

As for noise, I always thought most of the noise on mine came from the spur gear, not all of the TD ones are round, I swapped to a RW spur & most of the noise went away, it'll never be as quiet as a 22-4, but it's no noisier then any other car when the spur is round.

Not tried the plastic gears, since I'm still on the gears that came with it 5 years ago, there's no point in changing
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Old 11-01-2014, 08:27 AM
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+1 for better spur gears. Any of the upgraded machined gears are much rounder and really quiet the car down. They give you a better mesh too since you can get a little closer with a truly round gear.
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