Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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#4308
Tech Adept
#4309
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
#4310
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
#4311
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
#4312
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
You could also try raising the roll centre at the c and d blocks, do this by raising the pin height. This is considered a larger change.
Adjust wheel base at the hubs, by moving them back.
Honestly if the buggy is good everywhere else on the track and you are looking to improve it for one corner I would leave it as it may have an adverse effect elsewhere on the track.
#4313
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Thanks everyone for the info. I based my change on this from the Xray offroad book:
REAR ROLL CENTER CHARACTERISTICS
Higher
• Increases on-power traction
• Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
• Use under low-traction conditions
Lower
• Decreases rear traction into corner
• Increases steering into corner
• Use to avoid traction rolling mid-corner and corner exit
One thing I noticed is that a lot of the other cars at the track had swaybars mounted up but I don't see alot of setups using that right now. Curious if there is a recommended setup out there with sway bars right now as I was thinking a rear sway bar could have helped.
REAR ROLL CENTER CHARACTERISTICS
Higher
• Increases on-power traction
• Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
• Use under low-traction conditions
Lower
• Decreases rear traction into corner
• Increases steering into corner
• Use to avoid traction rolling mid-corner and corner exit
One thing I noticed is that a lot of the other cars at the track had swaybars mounted up but I don't see alot of setups using that right now. Curious if there is a recommended setup out there with sway bars right now as I was thinking a rear sway bar could have helped.
Last edited by Cain; 11-13-2016 at 04:57 AM.
#4314
On my b6 I ended up with no shims under rear ballstud, long wheelbase, inside hole on rear camber link. Thinking about going to 1.6 piston 30 weight in rear shocks. If you shocks are not mounted on the front of the arm then change it. Moves the weight forward which is what is needed when traction is very high.
#4316
Tech Regular
Hey gents,
Are the titanium axles worth getting? Team Associated front, Protek rear. I have the MIP pucks for gear diff on order, and was wondering if lighter axles would help or hurt the car. It will only see life on carpet so I'm not worried about needing weight for traction.
Are the titanium axles worth getting? Team Associated front, Protek rear. I have the MIP pucks for gear diff on order, and was wondering if lighter axles would help or hurt the car. It will only see life on carpet so I'm not worried about needing weight for traction.
#4317
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
Lower traction conditions you would lower the roll centre by adding shims underneath the ball stud.
You could also try leaving the ball stud height alone and lengthening the camber link, and be sure you drive it after each step that way you "feel" the difference.
#4318
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
So. when I first got my B6D I started tuning it according to what I knew from my B5M. Every change I made to the car made it worse and worse. That is when another guy and myself came to the realization that the car gained + camber with suspension travel.
If you tune this car like a B5M, your outside tire actually goes way positive with chassis roll. Having never raced (off road) on turf or carpet I would imagine this may be actually beneficial to prevent traction rolling?
I went totally opposite of everything I learned and set up the rear of the car to gain - camber when the suspension was compressed. I will say, I am EXTREMELY happy with the way this car handles right now.
If you tune this car like a B5M, your outside tire actually goes way positive with chassis roll. Having never raced (off road) on turf or carpet I would imagine this may be actually beneficial to prevent traction rolling?
I went totally opposite of everything I learned and set up the rear of the car to gain - camber when the suspension was compressed. I will say, I am EXTREMELY happy with the way this car handles right now.
#4319
Anyone running yatabe springs? If so what color? Front and rear?
#4320
Tech Rookie
Anyone tried the JConcept Aluminum steering bellcrank and steering rack? I broke the stock plastic steering bellcrank today. Was wondering which steering upgrade should I get, AE or JC? The JC ones look better to me.