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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 02-23-2017, 08:12 AM
  #5806  
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duplicate.
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:23 AM
  #5807  
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC
Do you use the stock battery strap or something else?
I use the stock battery strap but removed the stock shoulder screws. Just screwed in 20mm set screws and use the stock battery strap nuts. Some guys are just screwing the battery strap down as well. Been going strong with these batteries too.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:04 AM
  #5808  
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Originally Posted by Thrifty
What set up are you running ? B6D out of the box did not have enough steering for me but when I changed to the gull front end and +1 on the steering plates and I have more than enough steering on primes / high bite track
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:19 AM
  #5809  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
175mm the perfect length for sensor wire?
Depends on where you have your ESC

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Old 02-23-2017, 09:20 AM
  #5810  
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Originally Posted by Azzkikin
Depends on where you have your ESC
That's a cute lipo
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:21 AM
  #5811  
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Originally Posted by mellow
That's a cute lipo
Aww shucks...

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Old 02-23-2017, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
What set up are you running ? B6D out of the box did not have enough steering for me but when I changed to the gull front end and +1 on the steering plates and I have more than enough steering on primes / high bite track
i installed the +1 plates and will need to install the gullwings which i have purchased. I have made some changes to the car so I will make additional changes to see how it works out but just driving it around the house it seems like it inherently has a wider turning radius... kinda strange.. but i am a strange guy so...
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:10 PM
  #5813  
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Originally Posted by mellow
That's a cute lipo
hahaha
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Old 02-23-2017, 11:54 PM
  #5814  
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Originally Posted by radioctrlhead
i installed the +1 plates and will need to install the gullwings which i have purchased. I have made some changes to the car so I will make additional changes to see how it works out but just driving it around the house it seems like it inherently has a wider turning radius... kinda strange.. but i am a strange guy so...
Make sure you reset your endpoints, and adjust your toe after installing the type 1 steering plates.
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Last edited by mellow; 02-24-2017 at 08:36 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:37 AM
  #5815  
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Originally Posted by mellow
Make sure you reset your endpoints after installing the +1 steering plates.
Does "+1" indicate +1mm of arm length, as an ackerman adjustment?

Is any change on the drag link (ball stud spacer..) necessary?
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:58 AM
  #5816  
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Had mine on the track for the second time, and really digging the car. Back end is a touch squirrel coming out of the corners on-throttle. I have the kit setup + laydown (shocks still on rear, though). Thinking of the following changes, in order:

- + 0.5 degrees antiquat
- Rear hubs forward
- Front lower shock mounts to B (middle) position
- 32.5wt front shocks
- Rear upper shock mounts to 1
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:36 AM
  #5817  
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Originally Posted by Davidka
Does "+1" indicate +1mm of arm length, as an ackerman adjustment?

Is any change on the drag link (ball stud spacer..) necessary?
Sorry, I meant to say Type 1. I have the schelle steering arms which I'm not positive are the same as the Factory Team AE ones, but similar affect. It increases the ackermann. You will have to reset the toe turnbuckles, and adjust your EPA.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:39 AM
  #5818  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
Had mine on the track for the second time, and really digging the car. Back end is a touch squirrel coming out of the corners on-throttle. I have the kit setup + laydown (shocks still on rear, though). Thinking of the following changes, in order:

- + 0.5 degrees antiquat
- Rear hubs forward
- Front lower shock mounts to B (middle) position
- 32.5wt front shocks
- Rear upper shock mounts to 1
Do one at a time, but I'd definitely try more anti squat first. I had the same problem, and made that change last time I was at the track. It helped a bunch. I ended up with .5 up and .5 in on the c block to get a little more toe and anti squat.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:42 AM
  #5819  
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Originally Posted by mellow
Sorry, I meant to say Type 1. I have the schelle steering arms which I think are probably the same as the Factory Team AE ones. It increases the ackermann. You will have to reset the toe turnbuckles, and adjust your EPA.
I remember seeing somewhere that the Schelle ones are about 1/2 to 3/4 the amount of change that the AE ones are.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason B
Had mine on the track for the second time, and really digging the car. Back end is a touch squirrel coming out of the corners on-throttle. I have the kit setup + laydown (shocks still on rear, though). Thinking of the following changes, in order:

- + 0.5 degrees antiquat
- Rear hubs forward
- Front lower shock mounts to B (middle) position
- 32.5wt front shocks
- Rear upper shock mounts to 1
I'd try the 32.5 wt front oil and switch to grey front springs first. This will allow more weight transfer to the rear when accelerating. And if you have the aluminum d-block, narrow your pivot location with the pills.
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